Alternative Starting Methods?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

pursang

Member
Jun 7, 2014
35
Canada
I'm looking for ideas to build an easier way of starting chainsaws, particularly larger displacement saws or one's that are just cranky to get going, I've seen a bunch of methods and decided on using this 12 volt starter mounted to the receiver hitch on the front or rear bumper. if anyone has any ideas, advice or if you've made your own alternate starting method please post up some pics and info.

The starter will drive the flywheel the same way the pull starter does using the pawl slots.


StarterMod1.JPG


This Toyota starter should be strong enough for starting any chainsaw.

StarterMod4.JPG
 
Interesting concept. Akin to the remote starters on old dragster cars. You might want to research that stuff a little. It might give some ideas or inspirations.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
I don't know much about big saws, but I do have a 395xp that starts on the first or second pull every time. Has it always been this way?
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
My Big Chainsaw start on 3rd pull. I have little 12" Echo, that one is hard to start. Until it warms up it's worthless. Even after having the carb serviced it's hard to start. Hard to cut wood when your too tired to begin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
My Big Chainsaw start on 3rd pull. I have little 12" Echo, that one is hard to start. Until it warms up it's worthless. Even after having the carb serviced it's hard to start. Hard to cut wood when your too tired to begin.
Kind of like making it half way across the lake before the boat engine starts.
I was never one to do hard starting engines. Either they fire, or are refurbed.
That starter motor - had a 15:1 to 20:1 reduction before it got to that Toyota engine. Hand starting is only a couple hundred rpm.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
My Stihl starts reliably with the Stihl method. And when it's hot, one pull. But do it wrong and you will flood it.
If you have a hard starting engine, try what I've done. Of course make sure it's tuned up with a new plug. I document what I do for every cold start. Waiting days in between, I try something completely different each time.

I have a Honda ATV that for years never started cold easily or stayed running. When I got it started you could't give it any gas or it would stall. The solution was pump the throttle quickly 8-10 times , choke on 7/8. Do this and it starts in one revolution and lets you give it gas when it starts. And if I stall it a few more pumps it fires right up. It still needs to warm up but it's like a different engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
Some small engines have bizarre starting rituals and include pumping the throttle X number of times or some sequence of throttle, primer bulb, and/or choke.
 
Interesting project - will be neat to see how it turns out. Here are a couple of thought / considerations:

Going this way, seems like you would need to adapt the original pull starter pawls to the electric starter motor. Should not be too big of a deal if you at least have some machining / welding capability.

You'll almost have to run the original flywheel cover - likely with a hole drilled for the new starter pawl. The flywheel cover would almost be a necessity safety-wise... seems borderline insanity to have that big 'toothed' flywheel spinning out in the open. Plus the cover likely directs a lot of the flywheel air wash into cooling the saw.

Given those mods, it seems like you are 100% ruling out starting the saw by hand. Seems like that would be almost as big of a hassle as manually pulling the saw back to life? ...unless you're always cutting wood within a couple dozen feet of your front / rear bumper.

My only other thought would be - is it possible to access the clutch on the other side in any possible way? If you could set something up there, you could keep the pull start just in case, but still have 'electric start' when needed.

I know model airplane guys use a starter with a big rubber pad which pushes over the nosecone of the prop...just a friction fit. Wonder if something similar could be made to grip the center of the chainsaw clutch and give it a spin?

airplane starter
s1.jpg


"a" Stil chainsaw clutch...your may be different
maxresdefault.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
I seems like when these bear down, the rpm drops to reasonable starting speeds.
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    119.9 KB · Views: 130
  • Like
Reactions: pursang
Interesting project - will be neat to see how it turns out. Here are a couple of thought / considerations:

Going this way, seems like you would need to adapt the original pull starter pawls to the electric starter motor. Should not be too big of a deal if you at least have some machining / welding capability.

You'll almost have to run the original flywheel cover - likely with a hole drilled for the new starter pawl. The flywheel cover would almost be a necessity safety-wise... seems borderline insanity to have that big 'toothed' flywheel spinning out in the open. Plus the cover likely directs a lot of the flywheel air wash into cooling the saw.

Given those mods, it seems like you are 100% ruling out starting the saw by hand. Seems like that would be almost as big of a hassle as manually pulling the saw back to life? ...unless you're always cutting wood within a couple dozen feet of your front / rear bumper.

My only other thought would be - is it possible to access the clutch on the other side in any possible way? If you could set something up there, you could keep the pull start just in case, but still have 'electric start' when needed.

I know model airplane guys use a starter with a big rubber pad which pushes over the nosecone of the prop...just a friction fit. Wonder if something similar could be made to grip the center of the chainsaw clutch and give it a spin?

airplane starter
s1.jpg


"a" Stil chainsaw clutch...your may be different
maxresdefault.jpg
I'm fairly sure most Stihl saws have an inboard clutch.
 
My Big Chainsaw start on 3rd pull. I have little 12" Echo, that one is hard to start. Until it warms up it's worthless. Even after having the carb serviced it's hard to start. Hard to cut wood when your too tired to begin.
I know what you mean, I used to use a hand saw to cut all the 17 footers I loaded into the truck so the chainsaw is a breeze and saves so much time. does your Echo have decent compression?
 
Kind of like making it half way across the lake before the boat engine starts.
I was never one to do hard starting engines. Either they fire, or are refurbed.
That starter motor - had a 15:1 to 20:1 reduction before it got to that Toyota engine. Hand starting is only a couple hundred rpm.
The MS260 engine is fine, the engine that's broken is me lol. The starter is only a little four banger unit but I think if it's going to cause any damage I'll buy something more appropriate, I just have this one laying around.
 
Last edited:
My Stihl starts reliably with the Stihl method. And when it's hot, one pull. But do it wrong and you will flood it.
If you have a hard starting engine, try what I've done. Of course make sure it's tuned up with a new plug. I document what I do for every cold start. Waiting days in between, I try something completely different each time.

I have a Honda ATV that for years never started cold easily or stayed running. When I got it started you could't give it any gas or it would stall. The solution was pump the throttle quickly 8-10 times , choke on 7/8. Do this and it starts in one revolution and lets you give it gas when it starts. And if I stall it a few more pumps it fires right up. It still needs to warm up but it's like a different engine.
I flooded it once and got it running with no choke wide open throttle and pull like 20 times. I made the mistake of using the choke on a warm summer day, from now on it's no choke and see what happens first.

Interesting what you say about the Honda, do those have a diaphram pump hooked to the throttle? many times if an engine stalls when given throttle just letting it idle for awhile works. I'm used to block muscle cars those are always fun to get going !
 
Interesting project - will be neat to see how it turns out. Here are a couple of thought / considerations:

Going this way, seems like you would need to adapt the original pull starter pawls to the electric starter motor. Should not be too big of a deal if you at least have some machining / welding capability.

You'll almost have to run the original flywheel cover - likely with a hole drilled for the new starter pawl. The flywheel cover would almost be a necessity safety-wise... seems borderline insanity to have that big 'toothed' flywheel spinning out in the open. Plus the cover likely directs a lot of the flywheel air wash into cooling the saw.

Given those mods, it seems like you are 100% ruling out starting the saw by hand. Seems like that would be almost as big of a hassle as manually pulling the saw back to life? ...unless you're always cutting wood within a couple dozen feet of your front / rear bumper.

My only other thought would be - is it possible to access the clutch on the other side in any possible way? If you could set something up there, you could keep the pull start just in case, but still have 'electric start' when needed.

I know model airplane guys use a starter with a big rubber pad which pushes over the nosecone of the prop...just a friction fit. Wonder if something similar could be made to grip the center of the chainsaw clutch and give it a spin?

airplane starter
s1.jpg


"a" Stil chainsaw clutch...your may be different
maxresdefault.jpg
I'm looking to buy a good used starter cover and modify that with a removable plug that gets reinstalled after the saw is running, will probably use a gentler 12volt motor but I'll see if the little four banger Toyota one is too abrupt first, the attachment method will be a wide nylon gear patterned after the engagement cog on the flywheel, with a foot operated push button. the main plan is to start the saw as usual with the injury I have, if it doesn't work out it'll only take a few minutes to set this up and be running, thanks for your input and advice.
 
I seems like when these bear down, the rpm drops to reasonable starting speeds.
Thanks for the link, I only have one nice saw so I'm more interested in treating it right than just using what parts I have on hand and possibly damaging it.
 
No offense to you stihl guys but that the reason I got away from them. I had a 441 and a 211 and they were always hard to start. Always to 6 to 8 pulls after the dealer looked at them and adjusted them and after I adjusted them. My jonsered and Dolmar always on the 2nd pull regardless how long they sit. They have set for 6 to 8 months and still fired right up.
 
My Stihl MS150 TC was always a pain until I adjusted the carb. Now it starts on the first or second pull.
How are you getting along with your 462?
 
Like you tell a young kid on a dirt bike or a chainsaw, if you can’t start it you can’t run it!

Electric start generator, long cord, electric chainsaw. If you can’t start a saw then you won’t be working large logs so a little electric will do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pursang