Am I going to have clearance issues with this?

[pulldownclaw]

Here is the cap that the chimney guy made for us after installing our poured masonry liner, which happens to be too large a flue for our insert. Full story here:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/7470/

So, if I end up installling a full length ss liner, which seems to be the consensus here, am I going to have a clearance issue with the top, or do they make low profile caps?

I also noticed some small cracks on the crown that they repaired while I was up there, seems like moisture could work its way in there? One more thing I'll have to arm wrestle this guy for.....

 

[Dunadan]

I had a cap similar to what you have there.

Our install was done last year. Before the liner was put in, there was a decent amount of clearance under the cap. When they installed the liner, though, they had it extend several inches above the top of the flu, which put it (no joking) less than an inch away from the cap.

Being new to burning wood, I didn't know what to expect, but all winter I had trouble starting fires, and keeping them from smoking. I now know I had poor draft, but I didn't realize this is why until I went up on the roof toward the end of winter, curious why there was creosote "dripping" down the sides of my chimney.

I'm no expert, but based on my experience, I would say once you install your liner, you are going to be too close to your cap (assuming your liner comes up the middle flu).

 

[Shane]

Call that guy back and have him fix those cracks. Water will enter them freeze, expand and cause further damage. I recommend Crowncoat. It takes about 10 minutes to apply. As for the liner, if that was my install the big cap would go and the liner cap would be installed on that flue then I'd cap the other flue with another apropriately sized chimney cap.

 

[budman]

Call that guy back and have him fix those cracks. Water will enter them freeze, expand and cause further damage. I recommend Crowncoat. It takes about 10 minutes to apply. As for the liner, if that was my install the big cap would go and the liner cap would be installed on that flue then I'd cap the other flue with another apropriately sized chimney cap.

What Shane said is the way it should be done.And i dont want to tell you what i think of
this guys work. :ahhh:

 

[pulldownclaw]

Isn't a cap better that covers the whole cap? I would think individual caps would let water deteriorate the rest of the cap quicker, or am I missing a draft issue?

 

[elkimmeg]

Pclaws what can I say the concrete crown was repaired? I wish It happened in my town so I could help you get it done right

 

[Shane]

When you reline you'll have issues and most liner kits require that the liner be terminated with their top plate/ chimney cap. The large cap is a decent solution if you were going to keep your flues unlined. The crack is likely caused by moisture being wicked out of the concrete before it set up, it happens. It's happened to me with crownsaver, so then I would go back with crown coat and fix the problem. It doesn't look like he mechanically fastened the cap to the crown (judging this when I can only see one hole). I don't know if that cap manufacturer requires it or not.

 

[Gooserider]

What bothers me is that the cap doesn't seem to cover the entire crown. The cap we have goes over the entire top of the chimney and has flanges that extend onto the sides of the top layer of bricks. IMHO this is a far better way of doing it as the masonry is protected by the stainless steel flange.

As is I think it would sort of work as long as the cracks were fixed, but I'd be a litle concerned about the gap between the taller flue and the cap, certainly there wouldn't be room for it and a liner mount.

Gooserider

 

[pulldownclaw]

Unfortunately we paid him good money to custom make that cap, back when he poured the liner and I was less informed. I would love to find a way to install a low profile termination cap for when I drop a ss liner in. Anybody know where I can get one, or is that sound like a custom job?

 

[Gooserider]

Try talking to our fearless Webmaster about an "Extendaflue" setup - take off the existing cap, put a shorter single pipe cap on one flue and a slightly taller one on the other, and possibly a metal flashing over the concrete to protect the crown.... Don't know that this would be the best solution, but it would seem like a possibility.

Gooserider

 

[BrotherBart]

Why not terminate the liner even with the top of the flue tile using the top plate turned upside down so the collar is down in the clay tile instead of sticking up and seal it to the flue tile the normal way with silicone. Trim the top plate slightly larger than the flue tile and then just let the big cap be, well, a big cap.

 

[pulldownclaw]

That is a GREAT idea BB! Why didn't I think of that? (Dope slap to the forehead)

Maybe cuz I'm still a burnin' chunk.... :gulp:

 

[Shane]

Why would you want to put a metal flashing over the crown? It's in decent shape and yes 20+ years from now it will need either repoured or a metal flashing installed at that point. What about all those chimneys out there with only single flue caps and exposed concrete crowns? Concrete is resiliant that's why they make the crown out of it. If it wasn't then why bother putting a crown on at all just install a pan flashing as if it were a wooden chase.