Tonight I did the 300deg cure burn. Tomorrow I plan on doing the 400 degree cure burn. Since I got up to about 350 deg tonight with minimal amounts of wood (about a half dozen pcs of very small splits) my question is..... If I pack the stove with bigger and more splits, will the stove overfire when I make an attempt to test a longer burn cycle? I am planning on starting small, a short cycle to get coals, rake coals forward, and load with bigger stuff, open for a bit, then close her down. Does this sound okay? I will use this weekend as testing.thx.
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Sounds right to me. Every kind of stove is a little different, it will take some trial and error to find out how your stove like to be operated. With mine, I leave the draft open until it's going good (maybe 15-20 minutes), shut it down to half and leave it for another 10 to 15 minutes and then shut it all the way. If I shut it all the way down in one step, I choke it. Some folks leave their draft a little bit open for the long burn. I'm sure a Castine owner will come along and give you some advice specific to that stove.
Walk before you run.
Run before you race.
Exercise control before using speed.
Basic stuff will give you a better chance
of being happier with your stove for longer.
Gradually increase the size and amount of
your splits while regulating incoming air and damper.
Keep and eye on the stove top and flue - color and
temperature.
Avoid getting any metal there red.
Stay around while your burn and you should do just fine.
Aye,
Marty
Run before you race.
Exercise control before using speed.
Basic stuff will give you a better chance
of being happier with your stove for longer.
Gradually increase the size and amount of
your splits while regulating incoming air and damper.
Keep and eye on the stove top and flue - color and
temperature.
Avoid getting any metal there red.
Stay around while your burn and you should do just fine.
Aye,
Marty
Not going to offer any different advice than what has already been stated.
Each burn in fire I did in the F600 was just a little more wood. Anticipate a slight rise in temp when you close down the air and the secondaries burn in.
Do not be surprised if you continue smelling paint curing as you reach new high temperatures. It will eventually cease.
Enjoy that stove when you get it really going!
Each burn in fire I did in the F600 was just a little more wood. Anticipate a slight rise in temp when you close down the air and the secondaries burn in.
Do not be surprised if you continue smelling paint curing as you reach new high temperatures. It will eventually cease.
Enjoy that stove when you get it really going!
Pretty much by the op manual 
5.3 Break-In Procedure
The Jøtul F 400 is constructed of cast iron and stove furnace
cement. This type of construction requires the stove to be
“broken-in†gradually so that heat expansion does not occur
too quickly and cause damage. The following steps describe the
proper break-in procedure for the Jøtul F 400 :
1. Light a small fire of newspaper and kindling. Only allow the stove to reach a maximum surface temperature of 200°F (93°
C). Burn for approximately 1 hour.
2. Allow the stove to cool to room temperature.
3. Light a second fire, allowing the stove to reach a maximum temperature of 300°F (149°C) for 1 hour.
4. Cool the stove to room temperature.
5. Light a third fire and gradually allow the stove to reach a surface temperature of 400°F (204°C).
6. Cool stove to room temperature. This completes the “break-in†procedure.
To monitor the stove’s temperature, use a magnetic stove-top thermometer, placed directly on the corner of the stove’s top plate.
Note: Keep the stove under 400°F (204°C) surface temperature during any “break-in fireâ€, with the exception of the last “break-
in†fire. If the temperature exceeds 400°F, move the primary air control lever all the way to the left to shut off the air supply
completely. It is normal that the stove top temperature will continue to climb until the fuel burns down somewhat. Once
the fire is out and the stove has cooled to room temperature, continue the break-in procedure.
Never attempt to reduce the temperature by removing burning logs from the fire.
Note: It is normal for a new painted stove to emit an odor and
smoke during its first several fires. This is caused by the seasoning
of the high temperature paint and will diminish with each fire.
Opening a window or door to provide additional ventilation will alleviate this condition.
Sounds like you got it almost ready to go 24/7
5.3 Break-In Procedure
The Jøtul F 400 is constructed of cast iron and stove furnace
cement. This type of construction requires the stove to be
“broken-in†gradually so that heat expansion does not occur
too quickly and cause damage. The following steps describe the
proper break-in procedure for the Jøtul F 400 :
1. Light a small fire of newspaper and kindling. Only allow the stove to reach a maximum surface temperature of 200°F (93°
C). Burn for approximately 1 hour.
2. Allow the stove to cool to room temperature.
3. Light a second fire, allowing the stove to reach a maximum temperature of 300°F (149°C) for 1 hour.
4. Cool the stove to room temperature.
5. Light a third fire and gradually allow the stove to reach a surface temperature of 400°F (204°C).
6. Cool stove to room temperature. This completes the “break-in†procedure.
To monitor the stove’s temperature, use a magnetic stove-top thermometer, placed directly on the corner of the stove’s top plate.
Note: Keep the stove under 400°F (204°C) surface temperature during any “break-in fireâ€, with the exception of the last “break-
in†fire. If the temperature exceeds 400°F, move the primary air control lever all the way to the left to shut off the air supply
completely. It is normal that the stove top temperature will continue to climb until the fuel burns down somewhat. Once
the fire is out and the stove has cooled to room temperature, continue the break-in procedure.
Never attempt to reduce the temperature by removing burning logs from the fire.
Note: It is normal for a new painted stove to emit an odor and
smoke during its first several fires. This is caused by the seasoning
of the high temperature paint and will diminish with each fire.
Opening a window or door to provide additional ventilation will alleviate this condition.
Sounds like you got it almost ready to go 24/7
I hope it gets colder by the weekend. Its supposed to a bit. I wanna try a 24 hour burn. If I have to turn on all the ac's I will get it cold in here! :shut:
Rather than add some larger splits and plan to control the temperature by controlling the air flow, I'd load only a limited amount of smaller wood and try to control the temperature by limiting fuel. You can't be sure how your stove and flue will respond to the air control lever - what if you have more fuel than you want and can't control the temperature with the air control?
Of course this fire has probably already happened, so I hope it went well. I can't imagine that small deviations from the recommended temperatures are a problem. It is pretty hard to precisely control the temperature of a wood stove, expecially a brand new one.
Of course this fire has probably already happened, so I hope it went well. I can't imagine that small deviations from the recommended temperatures are a problem. It is pretty hard to precisely control the temperature of a wood stove, expecially a brand new one.
Wood Duck said:
I have had no troubles yet.....and from what you are saying it will be a slow process to get the stove where I want it. So once I get typical overnite burns......is it safe to say that what I am doing is okay? I want to burn 24/7, and while nobody will be at home, I want it to be safe. I know that every burn will differ...wind, temps, draft, ect.
I don't think it is a long or slow process, although I guess that depends on your point of view. Light three break-in fires over three days per the instructions. After that the break-in procedure is over and you can learn how your stove burns. After the break-in I'd load maybe 4 or 5 smallish splits with your kindling and burn it. Watch how it burns, adjust the air, etc. so you get a feel for it. Reload with a similar amount of wood and repeat - keep in mind that the fire will be different when reload over coals than from a cold start. Slowly use more and more wood. The thing I would avoid is putting a big load of wood in the stove and planning to control the temperature with the air control before you are familiar with the stove. I think in a week or two you'll know the stove pretty well. Maybe it will even get cold enough to need a wood stove.
Many of us grew up with a coal or wood stove as our heat, so we have no trouble trusting stoves to work while not there or during the night.
It takes a few times before you don't worry about your stove, with a fire going & you not there.
You have a good & safe install, nice hearth & allot better than a pipe stuck thru the wall for a chimney.
You have a good modern, safe stove.
You have smoke & CO detectors.
You have good fire wood.
You are good to go 24/7, with confidence
It takes a few times before you don't worry about your stove, with a fire going & you not there.
You have a good & safe install, nice hearth & allot better than a pipe stuck thru the wall for a chimney.
You have a good modern, safe stove.
You have smoke & CO detectors.
You have good fire wood.
You are good to go 24/7, with confidence
My Osburn 2000 is finally broke in. I had my first fire a couple days ago to begin curing process and now she is burning at 400 degrees as I type this.
Oh, I forgot to mention. I am baking some delicious bread on top of my stove right now. Thank god for tin foil because it makes a nice barrier between stove and bread!
Little while longer, a slab of butter and life will be good.
Fredo
Oh, I forgot to mention. I am baking some delicious bread on top of my stove right now. Thank god for tin foil because it makes a nice barrier between stove and bread!
Little while longer, a slab of butter and life will be good.
Fredo
Wood Duck said:
Very good advice . . . control the heat by controlling the fuel . . . for me changing the air once the fire gets going only controls where the bulk of my heat is going -- either up the chimney or into the stove. It is far better to control the heat by your choice of how much wood is in the firebox, size of the splits or rounds and choice of the wood species.
You will have some "Oh crap" moments and other times when you get a little worried . . . but it's all part of the learning process . . . and most of the time no one gets hurt or causes any more of a problem than a bit of indigestion from the experience.
It's all a learning experience . . . enjoy the ride. By this time next year you'll be offering advice on how to operate the Castine.
Backwoods,
I too am learning how and what works best when it comes to burning with my new Osburn. I started a fire just now and after my cold stove heated up, that took around 20 minutes or so, my stove top gage was climbing into the 500s. I kept an eye on gage and when it reached 600 I just closed my damper down a ways and temps gradually made their way down.
If it were not for the fine folks at hearth.com I would probably be lost. All the information and help they have given me has paid off.
I have a lot to learn and yes, it is so true, PROPERLY SEASONED WOOD is mans best friend along with his dog, phido!
I have encountered the WOOD SIZZLE SYNDROME as I call it and it can be a humdinger. Trying to get splits of hard wood burning when they are not seasoned correctly will test a mans patience.
Not to worry though , I was warned of this by many a wood burning geru at hearth and all is well. It just takes a little more time to get some of my fires going.
Fredo
I too am learning how and what works best when it comes to burning with my new Osburn. I started a fire just now and after my cold stove heated up, that took around 20 minutes or so, my stove top gage was climbing into the 500s. I kept an eye on gage and when it reached 600 I just closed my damper down a ways and temps gradually made their way down.
If it were not for the fine folks at hearth.com I would probably be lost. All the information and help they have given me has paid off.
I have a lot to learn and yes, it is so true, PROPERLY SEASONED WOOD is mans best friend along with his dog, phido!
I have encountered the WOOD SIZZLE SYNDROME as I call it and it can be a humdinger. Trying to get splits of hard wood burning when they are not seasoned correctly will test a mans patience.
Not to worry though , I was warned of this by many a wood burning geru at hearth and all is well. It just takes a little more time to get some of my fires going.
Fredo
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