I know this has been beaten to death here and other places… but I wanted to share a few thoughts on bio bricks after having used my new wood burning insert for a few weeks. I like them. But it’s not that simple. I had the misfortune of getting a couple cord of not so seasoned hard wood. It’s burnable but not “set it and forget it” burnable. I find I need to leave the door of the insert open for long periods to create a wind storm big enough to get the woods going, then really keep an eye on it to be sure it doesn’t go out once the door is closed, or over-fire if I leave it open too long, etc. It just requires more work and attention. The Bio Bricks are 100% predictable and there is something to be said for that. I know if I put 4-5 in my stove and shut the air all the way down, they’re going to burn for a long while. I don’t need to watch the stove every 10 minutes to make sure it’s burning well. There is something to be said for that. I know if I had dry hardwood things would be different but I don’t have a lot of space to season my own and what you buy is hit-or-miss. So, I’m a believer in bio fuels so far.
Another Bio Brick Post…
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I need to try them again. I have neighbors that only burn biologs and they've been burning stove for 40 years.
I think there is some difference in quality between brands, I hear the generic Tractor Supply stuff and the like is not compressed as much and can fall apart easily, etc. I’m in the process of trying a few different brands to see what works best for me. I’m burning Energex XBlox right now and they work well but I have nothing to compare to. Luckily I have a local bio fuel supplier who carries several brands of blocks, plus some of the bio logs, from North Idaho Energy and Homefire Prest logs. I’m excited to try the Homefire logs, they make some pretty incredible claims about their product…
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brazilbl
Burning Hunk
For those who live in the western states, you might try North Idaho Energy Logs. Two of them in my wood stove will yield 5 hours of useable heat.
In terms of predicability, you are spot on!
In terms of predicability, you are spot on!
Poindexter
Minister of Fire
I have heard repeatedly the North Idaho Energy Logs (NIELs) are best in class. Never lit one.
I burned a LOT of biologs while I was getting my cordwood process dialed in, but at the end of the day properly seasoned cordwood is quite a bit cheaper than heavily processed bio-log products for me.
Certainly look at your BTU for BTU pricing for biologs vs natural gas vs whatever energy source, but the real savings are going to be in seasoning your own cordwood, start with green (cheap) freshly felled timber and get that dry enough to burn cleanly.
One thing I did my second season as a burner was 'cocktail' my firebox with mostly not quite dry enough cordwood and a couple bio-logs to get the average MC in my firebox (every load) down under 20%. I do not miss the added expense of biologs (at all) now that I have my cord wood seasoning process dialed in. Nor do I miss the aggravation.
I do think biologs (and pine) are useful tools for new burners. With current supply chain issues and all around out of whack pricing we should probably all consider them. Year in/ year out, if you have the time and rotator cuffs, the least expensive BTUs for home heating are going to be taking possession of green wood and seasoning it yourself.
I burned a LOT of biologs while I was getting my cordwood process dialed in, but at the end of the day properly seasoned cordwood is quite a bit cheaper than heavily processed bio-log products for me.
Certainly look at your BTU for BTU pricing for biologs vs natural gas vs whatever energy source, but the real savings are going to be in seasoning your own cordwood, start with green (cheap) freshly felled timber and get that dry enough to burn cleanly.
One thing I did my second season as a burner was 'cocktail' my firebox with mostly not quite dry enough cordwood and a couple bio-logs to get the average MC in my firebox (every load) down under 20%. I do not miss the added expense of biologs (at all) now that I have my cord wood seasoning process dialed in. Nor do I miss the aggravation.
I do think biologs (and pine) are useful tools for new burners. With current supply chain issues and all around out of whack pricing we should probably all consider them. Year in/ year out, if you have the time and rotator cuffs, the least expensive BTUs for home heating are going to be taking possession of green wood and seasoning it yourself.
My supplier here in New Hampshire and Maine supplies them as well. I’ll be trying them soon.
brazilbl
Burning Hunk
I live in NorCal and the closest is about 45 miles from here. In case you didn’t know about this link:
NIELS Dealer Locator
I buy 3 pallets a year and they deliver to my house. I think its great that a couple of logs for less than $5 can produce hours of heat and moves the thermometer moving in the right direction!
brazilbl
Burning Hunk
When I switched from hardwood from a trusted dealer to NIELS, I found the cost to be very comparable to hard wood. I am cheap and would switch back, especially if I had land to do so... Frankly, I feel that I would not change back to hardwood on a number of metrics
Having a fixed count of logs per pallet really makes it easy to plan for a night’s/season’s burning and how much I need.
The switch to not having to yield a chainsaw or axe in my prep for the season really is a relief. Other than making sure I have enough room in the garage for the pallets is about as far as I go now...
Portland area in Oregon. Rough cost of hardwood per cord $300+. A bit in favor of the NIELs on the cord VS. pallet comparison.
I will probably start going this direction for my folks in the next couple years. If nothing else for ease of storage, handling, and less mess everywhere firewood goes. A little extra cost goes along way compared to making their lives easier. For me, this option is not even on the drawing board
Owl
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Unfortunately pricing of these particular logs from NIEL are more expensive near me, likely because of cross country trucking to get here. There are closer to $400 per pallet. The other bio fuels are all in the $300-$350 range per ton.
I live in CT and burn the actual biobricks regularly. They are on my daily reload schedule. They are a specialized fuel source and for what I use them to do, they do it very well. They need a hot coal bed or some kindling to light off, but once they are off they go boom.
- Mix in with questionable MC wood. Not so much an issue this year since I had chance to dry out my wood stash, but last year they were life saver.
- When I need a huge boost in BTUs. Place 5~8 of these babies on the top of any load, next to the secondary tubes... once they take off they will really go. It's like feeding my stove a hit of stimulant.
- Fit it into nooks and crannies left behind by irregular wood. Got some openings? toss a brick in there. I can usually load 4~6 bricks to the side of stove when loading 16in logs.
- Did I say they burn HOT once taking off?
They are not good for me -
- When I need a reliable coal bed for reloads. I always place them in the front part of stove where I know they'll burn down 100%. The rear of stove is reserved for logs which I know will form coals.
- I feel a cat stove will get max out of these bricks. I've read some reports on this forum where people toss in 80lbs of bricks into a BKK and let it simmer for 2~3 days.
- A super tight load. Bricks expand by 20, 30% after heating up and become crumbly. In a super tight load, inappropriately placed, these bricks will chock off all air circulation.
This year I bought 1 whole pallet of the stuff during summer and I'm almost half way through. Not a cord wood replacement but def part of my daily burn plan.
All in all... I load the bricks when I know I won't touch the stove for next 8 hours. This will burn them down completely and prevnt the crumbly mess.
- Mix in with questionable MC wood. Not so much an issue this year since I had chance to dry out my wood stash, but last year they were life saver.
- When I need a huge boost in BTUs. Place 5~8 of these babies on the top of any load, next to the secondary tubes... once they take off they will really go. It's like feeding my stove a hit of stimulant.
- Fit it into nooks and crannies left behind by irregular wood. Got some openings? toss a brick in there. I can usually load 4~6 bricks to the side of stove when loading 16in logs.
- Did I say they burn HOT once taking off?
They are not good for me -
- When I need a reliable coal bed for reloads. I always place them in the front part of stove where I know they'll burn down 100%. The rear of stove is reserved for logs which I know will form coals.
- I feel a cat stove will get max out of these bricks. I've read some reports on this forum where people toss in 80lbs of bricks into a BKK and let it simmer for 2~3 days.
- A super tight load. Bricks expand by 20, 30% after heating up and become crumbly. In a super tight load, inappropriately placed, these bricks will chock off all air circulation.
This year I bought 1 whole pallet of the stuff during summer and I'm almost half way through. Not a cord wood replacement but def part of my daily burn plan.
All in all... I load the bricks when I know I won't touch the stove for next 8 hours. This will burn them down completely and prevnt the crumbly mess.
TheElementalCashew
Burning Hunk
I'm down in southern NH and have used some of the Tractor Supply blocks with good success, but they are usually only available in smaller quantities.
Do you mind sharing who your supplier is? Cordwood pricing has gone up around here so I'd like to compare the two.
Yea wood pricing is getting crazy here too. Last time I bought a cord of "seasoned" wood it was almost $400. And it wasn't very well seasoned. I go to Southern Maine Renewable Fuels, they have a location in Wells, ME and one in Windham, ME. They have a great variety and will just drop a pallet of whatever you like in your truck.
I have one dealer 60 miles from me. I'll reach out and see what their price is.
Right now, high quality bio bricks are $230/ton by me, so I'll probably continue to go that route for the foreseeable future
TheElementalCashew
Burning Hunk
We aren't up quite that high yet, fortunately. I'm a couple years ahead on my wood so I don't mind buying green or poorly seasoned wood for a bit cheaper.
That said, the Envi blocks look decently priced, and the Wells location is not unreasonably far. Thanks for sharing!
My housemate brought in some "Tennesee Hardwood Pellets" bricks. I won't use them in the stove until I know their provenance, though. Has anyone heard of these?
Is that warming Trends in Onalaska? I am curious what they charge; by the brick and by the pallet.
NIELs are the original Presto-Logs. They sold the name, but this is where they started in the 1930s. The machinery was designed by a Boeing engineer at the time to recycle wood waste. It is still in service and produces one of the densest compressed sawdust logs on the market. They are so dense they sink in water. One 8 lb Energy Log has approx. 68,000 BTU’s.
I wish we could get North Idaho logs here....... Best I have found are the Gren blocks and they are good but pretty small.
We've burned Bio Bricks off and on--we have a somewhat local feed/garden store that is not too far away, and I will grab them by the pallet. They used to be under $200, then $225--and this year they have hit $330/pallet which is pretty steep. (50 pack on a pallet)
I find they work fine, and you can start them tepee style with half a Super Cedar. And for sure, when you have indifferent wood they are a life saver.
Early this fall I grabbed some new ones from Tractor Supply (their big ones are pretty awful, their regular smaller ones were just OK)--they were Canadian (Canawick). The Canawick small ones were indistinguishable from the BioBricks and were only $3.99/pack. Of course, by the time I got organized and went back, they had only the indifferent ones again for $4.99. AFAIK, the Canawick ones never made the Tractor Supply web page so I don't know if they will come back...
Canawick has a list of dealers--looks like they are available in MA, and VT:
canawick.com
I find they work fine, and you can start them tepee style with half a Super Cedar. And for sure, when you have indifferent wood they are a life saver.
Early this fall I grabbed some new ones from Tractor Supply (their big ones are pretty awful, their regular smaller ones were just OK)--they were Canadian (Canawick). The Canawick small ones were indistinguishable from the BioBricks and were only $3.99/pack. Of course, by the time I got organized and went back, they had only the indifferent ones again for $4.99. AFAIK, the Canawick ones never made the Tractor Supply web page so I don't know if they will come back...
Canawick has a list of dealers--looks like they are available in MA, and VT:
Points of sale
canawick.com
Not sure which thread to add my 2 cents. Search function gives limited results for me. I know an admin has a good thread on them.
bioblocks. $6.99/pack at Ace. I tried them. Burn hot and last a couple hours. Worked better for me adding on top of coal bed. Tried building fire on top that took too long to throw heat imo. Don’t really go “racehorse hot” runaway hot if that makes sense. But they burn plenty hot.
I could cheerfully supplement with these if they are cost effective. Probably will get a pallet next Fall. Awfully handy. Neat tidy etc.
bioblocks. $6.99/pack at Ace. I tried them. Burn hot and last a couple hours. Worked better for me adding on top of coal bed. Tried building fire on top that took too long to throw heat imo. Don’t really go “racehorse hot” runaway hot if that makes sense. But they burn plenty hot.
I could cheerfully supplement with these if they are cost effective. Probably will get a pallet next Fall. Awfully handy. Neat tidy etc.
I liked the Bio-Bricks. Used as directed, they provided a good, steady long-lasting fire. The trick is to build a wall of them that has minimal air gaps so that they burn as one large block.
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