another OAK inquiry for a new burner

[burr]

I've been searching into the OAK topics and it's so much, I will start one. I am a new insert burner, have burned the fireplace occasionally. After learning here that the fireplace draws out all the heat of the house, I wonder if the insert will too, when burning overnight and left set partially open. It's an old house (50yo) that needs insulation and sealing anyway.

Is it sensible or advised to install a small floor vent through the floor directly in front of the stove (fireplace), accessing the crawl space of the house air ? Is this done ? Something as simple as a ac/heat duct cover over the opening that can be adjusted open/closed ?

I wonder about the back of my smallish (1000sf) home anyway, while I burn, if it will lose the heat and my gas heat running since the stat is back there.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I wouldn't worry about it. One of the reasons why a fireplace pulls so much air out of the house is the large flue right above it. You will be going from a large flue to a relatively small flue. A blockoff plate will further make sure as much heat as possible makes it into the room.

Matt

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I agree with Matt. Most times an OAK is not needed. Just picture that big hole you had in the fireplace and then picture the little hole for allowing air into your insert. There is a huge difference.

Good luck.

 

[tfdchief]

burr, you sent me a private message but I cannot reply to it since you have not set up an email in your profile, so I will post my reply here.
I have a 1500 square ft home and my Buck 26000 heats it just fine except when really cold. Buck made a 26000, 27000, and a 28000, so you have the smallest one. 1000 sq ft is not much and you will have trouble with to much heat unless it is pretty cold. Just dont biuld big fires. Limit to a couple of splits. You can control the heat with the draft and damper settings. you will have to experiment since how the flue drafts, changes everything. Open the damper to let more heat out of the stove, close it to hold more heat in. Control the fire burn with the draft controls. I used to exhaust directly into the chimney but that causes creosote problems in the fireplace firebox and can be dangerous if the fireplace and flue aren't in top notch shape. So I directly connected to a 7 in. Stainles Steel flex liner to the top of the flue. Works much better, much safer The switch is 2 position. down is manually on in the high speed. Up position, automatic, feeds the 3 temp thermostat located behind the right side fresh air intake (check the wiring diagram I posted) the 3 temp thermostat turns the fan on low (will take a while to come on when you first build a fire) then med. then high. Once the stove warms up DON'T fire it without the fan unless you open the doors. It will get to hot and burn up the wiring. It has a heat exchanger layer all the way around the fire box and can't cool itself without the fan. Download the Buck Sove Manual here - (broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/stovemanuals.html) You should read it thouroghly and if I haven't answered any of your questions, let me know.

 

[Highbeam]

I use an OAK connection for my freestanding stove. I pull the air from directly beneath the stove in the vented crawlspace through a sealed duct. I would not recommend just cutting a hole in the floor and assuming that this provides air for combustion. It will provide air allright, nasty crawlspace air to your living space all year long uncontrolled just like leaving a window open. I have photos in the clickable link in my sig.

If you can't properly plumb in a sealed duct for outside air then don't bother.

 

[burr]

I use an OAK connection for my freestanding stove. I pull the air from directly beneath the stove in the vented crawlspace through a sealed duct. I would not recommend just cutting a hole in the floor and assuming that this provides air for combustion. It will provide air allright, nasty crawlspace air to your living space all year long uncontrolled just like leaving a window open. I have photos in the clickable link in my sig.

If you can't properly plumb in a sealed duct for outside air then don't bother.

yes, I knew I had seen your work somewhere. OK, thanks, I have no direct connection to the stove.

 

[burr]

burr, you sent me a private message but I cannot reply to it since you have not set up an email in your profile, so I will post my reply here.
I have a 1500 square ft home and my Buck 26000 heats it just fine except when really cold. Buck made a 26000, 27000, and a 28000, so you have the smallest one. 1000 sq ft is not much and you will have trouble with to much heat unless it is pretty cold. Just dont biuld big fires. Limit to a couple of splits. You can control the heat with the draft and damper settings. you will have to experiment since how the flue drafts, changes everything. Open the damper to let more heat out of the stove, close it to hold more heat in. Control the fire burn with the draft controls. I used to exhaust directly into the chimney but that causes creosote problems in the fireplace firebox and can be dangerous if the fireplace and flue aren't in top notch shape. So I directly connected to a 7 in. Stainles Steel flex liner to the top of the flue. Works much better, much safer The switch is 2 position. down is manually on in the high speed. Up position, automatic, feeds the 3 temp thermostat located behind the right side fresh air intake (check the wiring diagram I posted) the 3 temp thermostat turns the fan on low (will take a while to come on when you first build a fire) then med. then high. Once the stove warms up DON'T fire it without the fan unless you open the doors. It will get to hot and burn up the wiring. It has a heat exchanger layer all the way around the fire box and can't cool itself without the fan. Download the Buck Sove Manual here - (broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/stovemanuals.html) You should read it thouroghly and if I haven't answered any of your questions, let me know.

thanks, I have the downloaded manual So, 7" is a better 'fit' than 8" per the rectangular opening area ? 8" is the size of the rectangle to circular adaptor section sold by Buck.

 

[tfdchief]

thanks, I have the downloaded manual So, 7" is a better 'fit' than 8" per the rectangular opening area ? 8" is the size of the rectangle to circular adaptor section sold by Buck.

I used 7" flex and enlarged to 8" at the rectangular to 8" round boot, because I had to put it down an 8" flue, 15 ft tall, Majestic triple wall steel fireplace flue. It draws fine.

 

[LLigetfa]

It is a myth. There really is no heat loss from not having an OAK. The cold outside air an OAK draws needs to be warmed anyway so it will steal just as much heat as using inside air.

What isn't a myth is that an OAK can reduce uncomfortable drafts where makeup air is drawn through cracks. An OAK also draws dry outside air instead of humid inside air that can condense in a cold chimney. An OAK also can help to aspirate the stove in cases where there is a pressure deficit cause by indoor stack effect.