Finally got my FP30 installed. My installer insisted that the OAK does not feed the combustion chamber. Is this true? He was insistent that the OAK would be fine sucking air from inside the home and he installed the duct with cover, right in my living room.
Another OAK thread
- Thread starter BeanstalksNY
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
That's wrong. It would have been nice if the installer read the instructions before mis-assuming. Sadly, this makes one wonder if other shortcuts were taken on the install now.
1. Outside Air Supply: WARNING: This must get its air from the outdoors and be finished with an approved vent cap. The use of outside combustion air for residential installations requires that the fireplace be secured to the structure to prevent dislodging of the air duct. Check local building codes for instructions on sealing the vent cap at the penetration point of the building. The combustion air inlet ducts can not terminate in an attic space or garage
1. Outside Air Supply: WARNING: This must get its air from the outdoors and be finished with an approved vent cap. The use of outside combustion air for residential installations requires that the fireplace be secured to the structure to prevent dislodging of the air duct. Check local building codes for instructions on sealing the vent cap at the penetration point of the building. The combustion air inlet ducts can not terminate in an attic space or garage
Thank you! I knew I was right. I think I’m going to use another contractor that I have on site to put in a proper OAK. Do you have any other ideas on what I should look out for to see if he took shortcuts?
Start at the top, looking at the chimney exit and flashing. If the chimney more than one story high, there should be a fire stop at the first floor level, typically at around 8-10'.
Yep, that’s the one. I’ve read about people having cold air emit from the unit when it’s not in use. Not sure if there are any other options to prevent this
If there is room, a thermal loop (upside-down U) could be added to the flex duct. Otherwise, the intake damper may be helpful, especially if the intake is on the windward side of the house.
Thank you SO much! You were right about the fire stop not being done. The flashing is also awfully done. 😔
I'm so sorry to hear this. It sounds like every part must be inspected right down to making sure that the chimney sections are fully joined/locked and correctly attached to the fireplace. Check all clearances too.
Yeah I’m going to inspect everything. My building contractor will correct some of the issues. There was also no insulation shield, they drilled 4 holes in my new roof to put working braces (not even under the shingles!) didn’t install the firebrick correctly, put the boost manifold on top of the baffles (I found it because it fell off and hit me on the head while I was fixing the firebrick).
Luckily I didn’t pay yet. They tried getting me to pay right after the job was done but I said I didn’t have my checkbook 😉
Luckily I didn’t pay yet. They tried getting me to pay right after the job was done but I said I didn’t have my checkbook 😉
Open a window near the stove. If it doesn’t change how the fire burns inside your stove, them your home leaks plenty of air for it to draft and an OAConnection would be useless.
This is a fireplace, the OAK connection is required by the manufacturer.
Finally got all the above issues remedied. Lol my goodness. Last thing I have to do is pick a compatible rheostat. Any recommendations?