Another question

[prezes13]

I am in my second year with my cape cod insert so I am still learning. Untill i found this site few months ago I had no idea about temperatures secondary burns wood moisture etc. I still don't have IR so I don't measure my stove temp, but here is what I am trying to aim for. Get the wood charte and stove hot enough to keep flames going with the air supply shot off completly. I shut my dumper when my fan kicks on(cold start) or when I get all my wood ignited (reload). I am going to get IR over the weekend. But for the time being is that what I should be doing?

 

[pen]

No reason to shut the air completely unless the fire is so strong that it warrants closing the primary air down as much as possible. I almost never (like maybe once or twice per season, need to close the air completely)

Those who are able to burn well with the air completely closed are using well seasoned firewood and have a very strong draft, often from a tall chimney that is insulated.

In general, do what it takes to make a good clean burn.

Questions for you since you are not using a thermometer as a guide are: Is your glass staying clear / white haze? Or are there dark areas often? How have the chimney cleanings gone? Minimal buildup? Is the cap staying clear? (These things can help indicate how well you are burning with your current habits)

 

[prezes13]

Glass gets a white haze sometimes brown in the bottom corners, last year cleanup with pretty craptasti wood I had two hand full. Cap seems to be clean couldn't go and check because of snow. However every time when I check my chimney for smoke rarely see any, other than reloads. My chimney is not insulated roughly 15 feet outside wall plus my wood was split and stacked in the begining of Sumer so not the best.

 

[jatoxico]

Sounds like you are doing OK. Pen has it right, the primary air control is not an on and off switch. Lower it in stages until flame gets lazy. As the fire re-intensifies lower more but only as low as will keep the fire burning well. Yellow flames OK, dark orange, sooty or smoldering fire needs more air.

 

[prezes13]

Thank you guys sounds like I run it too cold. And I was thinking I got right. You learn every day

 

[prezes13]

I am going to get me IR this weekend.

 

[prezes13]

I came to conclusion that I run it way to cold, there is no spot on the stove other than the glass that I couldn't touch. The hottest part I can touch for a split second without burning my self. Any how I just ordered a IRT today, I hope that should help me run it better.

 

[pen]

Thank you guys sounds like I run it too cold. And I was thinking I got right. You learn every day

The white on the glass is OK and normal. Brown can indicate that the air was turned down a bit too far.

That IR will be helpful for you to get a baseline for what is normal. You may not be able to measure the temps of that insert in the hottest spots due to design, but you can take readings in areas and compare them from one fire to the next to give yourself another guide.

When it comes to running the air control at a cruise, if you are getting much brown on the glass try opening up the air just a hair for a few fires (like 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch) and see what the difference is. If that keeps the glass clear / or just some white haze then that's a good cruise point for you. If things are still brown, then open things up just a touch more, etc. While doing this, use that IR to start making some references to temps around the unit.

When using the IR, skip pointing it at the glass. Measuring the temp on the glass is about as useful as pointing it at a window and trying to figure out the room's temperature.

 

[prezes13]

The white on the glass is OK and normal. Brown can indicate that the air was turned down a bit too far.

That IR will be helpful for you to get a baseline for what is normal. You may not be able to measure the temps of that insert in the hottest spots due to design, but you can take readings in areas and compare them from one fire to the next to give yourself another guide.

When it comes to running the air control at a cruise, if you are getting much brown on the glass try opening up the air just a hair for a few fires (like 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch) and see what the difference is. If that keeps the glass clear / or just some white haze then that's a good cruise point for you. If things are still brown, then open things up just a touch more, etc. While doing this, use that IR to start making some references to temps around the unit.

When using the IR, skip pointing it at the glass. Measuring the temp on the glass is about as useful as pointing it at a window and trying to figure out the room's temperature.

Thank you thank you very much for your advice I tried it and it already looks better. I got a bit of white haze in right bottom corner, most-likely because of premature shut down but I ran it open a touch more and glass is nice and clean, also house got warmer and I got it warm much faster. Again thank you very much this site should be recommended by every wood stove dealer.

 

[pen]

All in good fun! Glad to hear it.

 

[Dave A.]

I believe Pen was saying white haze on the bottom part of the glass is normal and okay. It's the brown and black that indicates the problem, if I understood correctly (white haze has been normal for me anyway). I wipe it off with a damp rag when it's cool.

 

[prezes13]

Yeah there is at least two problems so so wood and premature air shut down. But even with Eco bricks I was getting that so for sure I was siting it down too soon...