Another Well Question. The Holding Tank & Air..Now W/Pics

[Dix]

Must be the season

I had to replace the flex hose from the well head to the intake to the holding tank last week ( hole is still open, hoping that the fix holds, seriously contemplating filling the hole with straw and some serious covering if there is a problem over the winter).

Since then, water pressure drops out 1/2 way through a shower *sucks*

How do you "re air regulate" the tank? I really think that since the tank lost water, that this is what needs to be done.

I know I have to bleed the tank. Then what?

I have access to an air compressor if needed.

 

[BrotherBart]

I used this to check and adjust mine.

http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Tank_Bladder_Adjust.htm

 

[Dix]

Thanks, BB.

I'm reading, but my tank is fiberglass, and 1/2 the size of that one ( which is like the one that I had before). Does that make a difference in the process?

 

[Hogwildz]

Dixie, post a pic of the tank. What size is it, and there should be a tag or sticker telling you what the air pressure should be.
There is a fitting on it that you add air from a compressor with. Looks like an inner tube air fitting.
Oh, are we talking pressure tank or actual holding tank?

 

[Dix]

I believe it's a holding tank, Hogs. Water comes in from the well, and sits in the tank until called for. The tank then fills as needed.

Before the new tank, I had a metal one that was twice the size of the fiberglass one I have now.

Will get a pic.

 

[Dix]

OK, pics.

I tried for the label, I can go down & read & write if need be.

Full label

The Pressure Info

The left side of the label, figured it might be easy to figure out

The tank & hook ups

 

[heat seeker]

It might be the pressure switch. On my well, the pump is in the house, and there is a small copper tube that runs to the pressure switch. A couple of times a year, I have to drain the system and clean out the passage in the pump housing. Some rusty looking stuff blocks it off enough so that the pressure switch doesn't see the drop in pressure right away. Result; the pressure drops pretty low before the pump comes on, and then the pump overshoots the pressure setting.
You may have a similar setup.

The purpose of the tank is to reduce the stops and starts of the well motor, increasing its life manyfold.

Even though your pump is in the well, the pressure switch is probably inside - I think it's the gray box at the bottom of the bottom picture.

 

[Dix]

This thread is the original issue. I think it lost pressure when the hose let loose, and has to be "re aired".

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/83425/

The problem has only happened since then.

 

[heat seeker]

I hear you. If the tank is a bladder type, it shouldn't have lost pressure. If it is not a bladder type, then you may well have lost pressure in it, you are correct. Either way, checking the pressure is the way to go right now, IMO. It's easy enough to do, and will rule that out.

 

[bluedogz]

In the first photo, "full label", the pressure switch is in the grey box at the bottom right of the picture.

Right near that switch, somewhere between the switch and the tank, should be a pressure gauge. Should read between 30-60 psi. If you take that grey box lid off, there should be a sticker inside that gives a narrower range (20/40, 30/50, 40/60). NOTE: There are live wires inside the box. If that spooks you, call either a plumber or an electrician.

Heatseeker's advice is accurate too- the copper or brass tube the switch sits on might be gunked up. Happens all the time.

FYI: a feeling of pressure dropping "1/2 way" can actually be a 5-10 psi difference at the tank.

Standard pressure for household is in the 30-60 range.
Pressure dropping 1/2 way through a shower means your low-pressure switch isn't switching OR the tank is not holding the pressure. Either way, the gauge will tell you this.
Turn on the bathub, go down and watch that gauge. When it gets down to the bottom number listed on the switch, you should hear it kick on. If it does not, you can make it more sensitive by tightening the leftmost nut of the four inside the box. Then repeat the above test. If you don't hold pressure, it's the tank.