Yes it is quite common. Many manufacturers even mention it in their instructions. And no to much draft would do the oppositeHere’s what I often have to do to get a fire to catch without choking out:
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Anybody else have to do that?
Is it because I have too much draft?
Do not use the ash pan door it can cause severe damage to your stoveyes, i use the ash pan door. i use this method also if i need a little turbocharging with the damper closed (not too much, don't want to over fire).
That practice is definitely discouraged by stove manufacturers. It is probably the #1 cause of cracked bases on some stoves.yes, i use the ash pan door. i use this method also if i need a little turbocharging with the damper closed (not too much, don't want to over fire).
can you provide a more detailed reply. i've owned and operated this stove since 1995, and to my knowledge haven't had any issue. maybe some stoves with ash pans are ok with this method and others not.Do not use the ash pan door it can cause severe damage to your stove
What stove is it?can you provide a more detailed reply. i've owned and operated this stove since 1995, and to my knowledge haven't had any issue. maybe some stoves with ash pans are ok with this method and others not.
Yes those can absolutely crack the base if the ash pan door is used. You have been lucky. Those are great old stoves btwvermont castings cdw seneca
they're not that old! how is letting air flow through the grate to juice the fire significantly different from cracking open a side or front door?Yes those can absolutely crack the base if the ash pan door is used. You have been lucky. Those are great old stoves btw
25 years for a woodstove is pretty old.they're not that old! how is letting air flow through the grate to juice the fire significantly different from cracking open a side or front door?
and i can't see how i've been "lucky" since this stove has been used heavily every winter (october thru march) since winter '95/96, and i've used the ash door method as needed without abnormal damage.
i've done two break down rebuilds since new, with the prime issue the inner top breaking down (a known weak spot in this stove). replaced the grate once, the fireback twice, the baffle twice, inner top twice, damper twice. the inner right side is original, but do have a replacement.
all outer pieces are original, with typical porcelain damage (dutch west paint job a step down in quality from flagship stoves, but even those suffer porcelain damage over the years).
what does that mean?! turning it into a rocket? agreed, you don't want to leave any open door situation unattended.On a previous stove I used the cracked ash pan door startup method to great effect until I once got distracted and had it lifting off the floor by the time I got back into the room. Luckily no damage but the incident cured me of that technique.
funny, my worry isn't gone until my last fire in the early spring. sometimes i wonder how i sleep with an 800 degree fire contained in a cast iron box burning unattended.Standard proceedure here is to leave the door propped open by the latch. Usually 5-10min, then shut the door. 5-10 more min, close the damper. At that point it's hands off for the duration. It's tempting to use the ash pan to jump start. There are equally effective ways - find a way and do that, and the concern, worry is gone.
Don't crack the base of the stove by using the ash pan door is much better advice, particularly for others that might be reading this thread in the future. It's not necessary and not even helpful with top-down starts.yes, i saw that in 1996! my chainsaw manual says NEVER operate above shoulder height, but of course sometimes you have to (if you are experienced and pay close attention to exactly what is happening). Don't leave the room with the ash door cracked!
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