Hi,
I am typing this reply in a 3,200 sq. ft., pitched roof, 2-story 3-bedroom, 2 3/4 bath, 4-car garage house. The 2nd story is 6" solid cedar logs. The 1st story is the American Polysteel Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). We ordered a random length log home kit from Cedar Knoll Log Homes in Plattsburgh, NY, where I was stationed when I was active duty Air Force and where my wife and stepson are from. We researched a LOT of log home companies and Cedar Knol was the last one we decided to look into and we liked them the best. The logs were shipped in on one semi-truck and we unloaded the semi and put the logs on a flat bed tariler
and used a Ford dually pick-up to haul the logs to the building site as the semi could not get to the site. The kit came with Caradco awning windows and the logs.
So, to answer your question if any of us have built a home with a DIY kit...the answer is yes. Would I do it again? Yes. Are there some things we leaned and would do differently? A resounding yes!
Let's talk about the efficiency of this house: no insulation in the walls....remember, they are solid cedar. The ICF forms have 2" of styrofoam on the interior and exterior with 10" of concrete in between the styrofoam. The ceiling of the 2nd story has about 12" of fibergalss batt insulation the ceiling of the 1st story has about the same. The temperature up here in the mornings the past 3 weeks has been between 6 and 18 degrees. Up here is at 7,000 ft. elevation snuggled right tight against the base of the 10,000 foot Sandia Mountains. The last 1 1/2 miles to our house is a dirt road and we are 2 miles from the nearest subdivision. We have 15 homes in our neighborhoood spread over approx. 150 acres and we are surrounded on all sides by the Cibola National Forest and the Sandia Indian Pueblo. I am describing this to you because there is no "residual" heat in this area from other buildings. When I ride my motorcycle into town I notice a tremendous difference in air temperature once I get into Albuquerque, just like when I used to ride from Cadyville into Plattsburgh, NY. My house is the only house like this in this neighborhood and our house is as warm and cold as any body else's "standard" stick frame built house in this neighborhood. We will wake up to 60 - 64 degrees in the house without any heat at all, as we are not using our in-floor radiant heat due to propane costs this year. And, until this past summer, we had no cooling in the house and the hottest our house has ever been in the summer has been about 90 degrees, and that was when we had 105 degree days. And, the ceiling fans cooled the house off very, very quickly. The moral on efficiency is: do not worry about it. Follow the caulking and weatherstripping instructions when building a log house and you will be fine! Our neighbor's houses are doing the same temperature wise.
Lessons learned:
1) Use random length logs if you have the time & desire to cut the logs to length, other-wise go with a pre-measured and pre-cut kit, which is kind of like a paint-by numbers type set-up...log A goes here, followed by log B, etc. a random length kit means you choose which log to use where and how long it should be, etc.
2) Do not try to drill the electrical wire chase through more than 2 log courses unless you have a special drill set-up to guide the drill bit....
3) Drilling and cutting the electrical wire chases, the outlet & switch openings, and cutting the corner butt & pass joints is very, very time consuming..do you have the time to do this?
4) Have the logs shipped factory stained...protects from any possible road grime during the shipping and saves you the hassle of doing it. We have not restained our logs yet and the log shell has been up since October 2001. We get some direct and very hot sun on the south & west side, and I just noticed this past summer when the sun hits the house just right that the west side probably could use restaining..but not the north, east or south sides. Go with larger than normal roof overhangs...we went about 12" longer than normal and that works fine. I might even go 18" next time but no more than that.
5) Use some of the logs for interior walls, vs. just the exterior walls like we did...adds more log home ambience
6) Try to not use a bank.....they were the # one problem issue for us, as it took us 14 months of weekend and work night evening (towards the end) work to get this house ready for us to move into. Who is us? Me, my wife, our two friends who are commercial construction contractors (museums, public schools, etc.), and one of our friend's two teenage boys who were 15 & 17 yrs old at the time. We were about 5 months behind the bank's worst case schedule for an outstanding construction loan and they were not happy....
7) try to do as much of the work yourself as you can...we hired a plumber after we had already done the 1st floor plumbing and we should not have hired him as he thought the house was his...ask us what we wanted, we would tell him, and then he would do what he wanted...We hired an electrician who discovered that a log home and ICF has uses a lot more wiring than normal and that he had underbid, and so he put us on "a slow boat to China" work schedule and delayed us tremendously....we hired a roofing company to install the metal pro-panel roof as they had the equipment to cut it. We hired some laborers to pour & finish the 56' x 44' monolith concrete slab & footer foundation of the first floor. We hired a retired master tile craftsman to tile the house (only the theater room downstairs has carpet...the rest is ceramic tile with laminate flooring, that my wife installed, in the bedrooms).
8) Would we do this again? You bet, and we have already done so, and we also hope to sell this house this Spring and rehab one of our neighbor's houses....what do I do for a living? Budget & Database Analyst..the trick is knowing where to go to get your answers and when to get get help. I learned by reading, talking, and doing. This next house I am going to take the homeowner's plumbing & electrical tests and do it myself, on a cash only basis.
I hope this helps.