Anyone have a Hampton HI300?

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knucklescraper

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 20, 2005
2
Does anyone have a Hampton HI300 Wood Insert?

I've got a smallish hearth opening (25.5 inches wide) and this stove looks like the biggest insert that would fit. Want to know how it performs and what (approximately) the cost is now.

What am I looking at for installation costs and re-lining the chimney?
 
Re linning the chimney depends upon location and size of existing clay flue. A direct connection is metal plating the damper
area and installing a liner into the first clay flue. If you can afford a full liner the pluss out weight the aditional cost. This is the way to go. I would also recomend metal plating the dampera area with the full liner system.
 
I have done extensive research on the HI300. After what I have read on this site and another: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/firepl/msg0908125914146.html?16517
I have no doubt the Hampton is the insert for me! I am in the process of ordering the unit and have a quote for both the enamel ($2,576) and the Metallic Black ($2,093). These quotes include the insert, the standard surround and the 2 speed blower. Additionally, I was quoted $599 on the flex kit (full chimney liner) with an extra $36 for a flue attachment kit. Their ballpark estimate for installation was $450. (I live in a ranch with a 16' chimney)

Had the store out today to do a more formal estimate and was told that they would have a more exact etimate for installation and additional materials by the end of the week. He did say it would be an easy install from what he could tell. I will let you know what they tell me, but as far as the stove goes the prices are solid for the next 30 days.

I have done a little searching on line and found a company (thru ChimneySweep.com) that sells flex liners for $425. That is a considerable defference and I may just buy from there if the store can't match or come down on their price.
 
Unless you plan to do the install yourself, you might not want to argue to much on the cost of the liner kit... A lot of shops will sell stuff at an increased cost for the parts in order to do a decreased cost on the installation labor. The prices you quoted for the liner plus install didn't sound unreasonable as a package deal.

BTW, I hope you meant a 16 FOOT chimney - 16" is rather short, and would definitely need an extension to function properly....

Gooserider
 
Regency and Hamptons have a flue collar adapter that does not come with the stove but needed for the connection to the liner and stove.

many hanpton stoves are installed with their approved liners that are 5.5" liners but they also can be installed with 6" liners

remember not all liners are alike there are cheapy ones and better quality ones you should ask and post what liner is quoted in the price . for any of us to comment on
 
Elk, I am still in the middle of getting my "installation" inspected and I am planning on getting a full 316ti liner one way or another....

Do you recommend the 5.5" over the 6" liner for the Hampton's? I'm going to have to drop it thru the existing 10" poured concrete liner, so I thought the 5.5 might give me a little more wiggle room.
 
Got my final estimate today. Quote was $4079 for everything. (enamel) Break down came out to be $650 for install. The rest was the same as quoted above. When I questioned the $200 increase I was told that $450 was for 2 man install, but I would need 3 for the Hampton.
We discussed the outside air kit and he stated there are channels on the top/sides of this insert for this purpose and that the fresh air would be drawn down through the open chimney (around the liner). I inquired about a block off plate and was told one was not needed with this stove. So I am a little confused about the exhaust and intake being the same hole. Anyone want to explain how that works without drawing the Co2 back in?!?
 
Nebrsmithers said:
Got my final estimate today. Quote was $4079 for everything. (enamel) Break down came out to be $650 for install. The rest was the same as quoted above. When I questioned the $200 increase I was told that $450 was for 2 man install, but I would need 3 for the Hampton.
We discussed the outside air kit and he stated there are channels on the top/sides of this insert for this purpose and that the fresh air would be drawn down through the open chimney (around the liner). I inquired about a block off plate and was told one was not needed with this stove. So I am a little confused about the exhaust and intake being the same hole. Anyone want to explain how that works without drawing the Co2 back in?!?

While in theory it might be possible, (they do something like this with pellet and DV gas units by extending the exhaust higher than the intake) it sounds really bogus to me in a wood stove. you should be having a blockoff plate at both the chimney cap, AND a blockoff plate at the bottom of the chimney, otherwise you'll be wasting heat up the chimney when the unit runs, and likely to get cold air infiltration down the chimney when it doesn't.

Gooserider
 
Nebrsmithers said:
Got my final estimate today. Quote was $4079 for everything. (enamel) Break down came out to be $650 for install. The rest was the same as quoted above. When I questioned the $200 increase I was told that $450 was for 2 man install, but I would need 3 for the Hampton.
We discussed the outside air kit and he stated there are channels on the top/sides of this insert for this purpose and that the fresh air would be drawn down through the open chimney (around the liner). I inquired about a block off plate and was told one was not needed with this stove. So I am a little confused about the exhaust and intake being the same hole. Anyone want to explain how that works without drawing the Co2 back in?!?
Your being fed 2 lines of sheet. Next dealer!!!!!!! Or save the cost and DIY.
 
You know that thought crossed my mind! I have read the manual and it's pretty straight forward. I was just on the phone with an alternate dealer and there price is the same. I did ask the sales person to confirm that install would include block plate(s). I am no heating contractor, but common sense tells me that the chimney would need to be blocked off!
 
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