Anyone know who made this stove is??
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Looks like a water tube boiler of some sort.
A fire tube boiler is built with flue tubes that the exhaust goes out through adding more heat to the water.
When the water circulates in the tubes and doesn't fill the boiler, they are a water tube type.
That gives you some keywords to search with.
![[Hearth.com] Anyone know who made this stove is??](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/86/86333-ac25b7229b81fd59f43e3e7cae109709.jpg?hash=zlNmiUHN6y "[Hearth.com] Anyone know who made this stove is??")
A fire tube boiler is built with flue tubes that the exhaust goes out through adding more heat to the water.
When the water circulates in the tubes and doesn't fill the boiler, they are a water tube type.
That gives you some keywords to search with.
Sorry, I guess I mean brand, or maker. It is a wood stove, or at least I hope it is. Not sure the valves on the front serve much of a purpose, but there's a blower on the back, inside the "jacket". Again, the ballast is on the bottom because the pics are flipped for some reason, or at least on my phone they are. Thanks!
Does look very much like a water tube boiler. (still a wood "stove")
Would you be willing to post a large array of additional photos? Every conceivable angle, closeups, nooks and crannies, info placards (especially)
I, of course, am very interested in this stove.
Oh, and welcome to the site, Doctor.
I flipped it over; Looks like a baffle in the top.
![[Hearth.com] Anyone know who made this stove is??](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/86/86364-f55070101980dd22aef4d32452ffca17.jpg?hash=kcjkIOoNy2 "[Hearth.com] Anyone know who made this stove is??")
You can see the outlet above it through the tubes. Is that an air induction fan on the front? (blower that supercharges burner connects to thermostat when call for baseboard or radiant floor heat is called for) I wouldn't be firing it without water in the tubes, (if that's what it is) and it MUST have a temperature / pressure relief valve like found on the top of a water heater. If the valves on the front are the only inlet and outlet into the tubes, make sure you don't close them both when fired since this will build pressure in the tubing.
You can see the outlet above it through the tubes. Is that an air induction fan on the front? (blower that supercharges burner connects to thermostat when call for baseboard or radiant floor heat is called for) I wouldn't be firing it without water in the tubes, (if that's what it is) and it MUST have a temperature / pressure relief valve like found on the top of a water heater. If the valves on the front are the only inlet and outlet into the tubes, make sure you don't close them both when fired since this will build pressure in the tubing.
Thank you for your input. Here is a link to a video I took of the stove. Any more thoughts would be appreciated. If you want more pics let me know. Also, I'm not a doctor, just my initials.
Dang. It's a home made air tube jobber.
Thanks for the video, very helpfull.
Definitely not a boiler as you noted.
What a great amount of effort to make to build that thing, when a shroud around the outside would have worked fine.
Bet it does pump out some hot air though.
I guess the two valves are some kind of secondary air control. Can you tell if they let in air pressurized by the blower?
Thanks for the video, very helpfull.
Definitely not a boiler as you noted.
What a great amount of effort to make to build that thing, when a shroud around the outside would have worked fine.
Bet it does pump out some hot air though.
I guess the two valves are some kind of secondary air control. Can you tell if they let in air pressurized by the blower?
I don't think the valves serve much of a purpose from what I can tell. Like you said, maybe a secondary air source. The valves show no air flow difference regardless of what I try with the blower, or opening and closing them.
The blower just blows air from around the inner "shroud" and the outer jacket. The tubes don't seem to be open on the back side, which would have been nice as it seems it would have pumped out even more heat with the blower going.
BoilerMan
Minister of Fire
Looks like the air gets preheated by the lower tubes and then through the valves and into the firebox. Quite the design, with alot of surface area to the air to be heated. Interesting indeed, some nice fabrication work, but the door handle would make for some burned hands.
Nice looking unit though.
TS
Nice looking unit though.
TS
BoilerMan
Minister of Fire
It would be cool to run water through some of the tubes and do some DHW with thermosyphon, or run it to some baseboard. But as Coaly stated, you'd need some hydronic heating supplies and safety devices. Unless your a tinker-er then best to just use it as-is.
TS
TS
Yeah, I'm some what of a tinkerer, but not in that field, and your right about the hot handle. I bought it basically just to heat my office, which it has no problem doing. I was wondering if any of you had any input/tips on how to utilize it to be as efficient as possible. This is my first "wood" stove so if I'm asking foolish questions please forgive me. I'm curious how full I should be loading it and optimal temperature. The firebox is 2 feet deep and 20 inches wide and about 2 feet tall. The baffle sits about 1 1/2 feet from the bottom and sticks out 1 foot. Should I be stacking wood right up to baffle and basically right up to the door? Also, take a guess what I paid for the thing? What would be a fair price?
Thanks for the video, that shows it is certainly not water tubes.
The valves on the bottom look like they are connected to the tubes that would force air from the blower under the fire. With ash pan door open, turn on fan and open valves. You should feel air and find where those two air tubes terminate under the grate. This would be for forced air to the fire, and quicker starting to induce a draft up the chimney when starting. (with door closed tightly) A supercharger of sorts, so your fire doesn't rely on atmospheric pressure.
The valves on the bottom look like they are connected to the tubes that would force air from the blower under the fire. With ash pan door open, turn on fan and open valves. You should feel air and find where those two air tubes terminate under the grate. This would be for forced air to the fire, and quicker starting to induce a draft up the chimney when starting. (with door closed tightly) A supercharger of sorts, so your fire doesn't rely on atmospheric pressure.
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