Anyone try one of these?
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Nope, never tried the Leveraxe. There was a test model floating around AS a few years back and a loooong discussion to go with it.
If most of your wood is shorter rounds of birch (preferably frozen), then it might suit you. Otherwise, it's too specialized for my eastern hardwoods and I've categorized it as expensive gimmickry.
If most of your wood is shorter rounds of birch (preferably frozen), then it might suit you. Otherwise, it's too specialized for my eastern hardwoods and I've categorized it as expensive gimmickry.
Brother sent me the link via nbcnews on facebook a few days ago.Asked me what I thought of it.Told him "I thought it was no more than a yuppie axe,an overpriced fancy gimmick."
Noticed on the company video that it looks like straight grained pine or birch that is being split.Then brother said "Who burns PINE?" He mentioned "how he'd burn pine in the firepit or when camping,but NOT in up the chimney in his open fireplace...."
So...... I had to educate him on the 'pine is dangerous & no good for indoor burning etc myth...." Explained that most everyone living on the pacific coast/western US,northern parts of US like Maine etc & northern Europe have little or no hardwoods,have been using softwoods for fuel & building material for thousands of years etc etc...." Think I got through,not sure though....
Looks easy on medium sized straight grained knot free softwoods such as white pine or spruce.Would be interesting to see how it behaves in twisted,gnarly knotty White Oak,Mulberry,Honey Locust or Elm/Apple stumps....That stuff just laughs at my X27,have to use the sledge/twisted wedge or break out the big saw for that brutal stuff........"
As of last Wednesday that Vipukirves ax was $277.08 with shipping to US addresses.....NO WAY!
Noticed on the company video that it looks like straight grained pine or birch that is being split.Then brother said "Who burns PINE?" He mentioned "how he'd burn pine in the firepit or when camping,but NOT in up the chimney in his open fireplace...."
So...... I had to educate him on the 'pine is dangerous & no good for indoor burning etc myth...." Explained that most everyone living on the pacific coast/western US,northern parts of US like Maine etc & northern Europe have little or no hardwoods,have been using softwoods for fuel & building material for thousands of years etc etc...." Think I got through,not sure though....
Looks easy on medium sized straight grained knot free softwoods such as white pine or spruce.Would be interesting to see how it behaves in twisted,gnarly knotty White Oak,Mulberry,Honey Locust or Elm/Apple stumps....That stuff just laughs at my X27,have to use the sledge/twisted wedge or break out the big saw for that brutal stuff........"
As of last Wednesday that Vipukirves ax was $277.08 with shipping to US addresses.....NO WAY!
I saw it pointed out somewhere that the torque at the end would be very painful after a short while. Notice what the axe does when it stops and see how it twists your wrists.
HOLY CRAP...and I thought my Tennis Elbow was bad NOW. 
Also, it looks like ya have to move in a clock-wise circle only.
$277 is a payment towards a hydraulic splitter no?
Also, it looks like ya have to move in a clock-wise circle only.
$277 is a payment towards a hydraulic splitter no?
All I can say is I only have one badly-damaged arm, and my Fiskars does me quite nicely. I don't know if I could take the torquing.
For $277 I can buy either 1 to 3 more medium sized vintage Mac's, a sizeable chunk towards one of the rarer very large gear-drive monsters or a very good pair of calk boots with steel toes & chainsaw resistant sidewalls.....
When splitting firewood with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe it really does not make any difference whether the wood is frozen or in summer temperature. This is because of the nearly non existent friction . The blade of the Leveraxe penetrates into the wood on an optimum strike only 5 millimetres, less than a quarter of an inch.
The conventional axe and maul must go all the way through the block and struggle it's way against the friction. In the winter the moist in the wood is frozen that makes the wood slippery. That is why the splitting is easier in the winter with the axes based to wedge.
The Leveraxe splitting technique multiplies the splitting force many times bigger because of leverage. Momentary splitting force can be over 15 tons.
Most of the splitting power with the conventional axes and mauls vanishes to the friction.
Based to the feed back from all over the world, the hard wood is not any more a problem, when splitting with the Leveraxe.
Here are some videos to make it easier to understand.
http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah
Brother sent me the link via nbcnews on facebook a few days ago.Asked me what I thought of it.Told him "I thought it was no more than a yuppie axe,an overpriced fancy gimmick."
Noticed on the company video that it looks like straight grained pine or birch that is being split.Then brother said "Who burns PINE?" He mentioned "how he'd burn pine in the firepit or when camping,but NOT in up the chimney in his open fireplace...."
So...... I had to educate him on the 'pine is dangerous & no good for indoor burning etc myth...." Explained that most everyone living on the pacific coast/western US,northern parts of US like Maine etc & northern Europe have little or no hardwoods,have been using softwoods for fuel & building material for thousands of years etc etc...." Think I got through,not sure though....
Looks easy on medium sized straight grained knot free softwoods such as white pine or spruce.Would be interesting to see how it behaves in twisted,gnarly knotty White Oak,Mulberry,Honey Locust or Elm/Apple stumps....That stuff just laughs at my X27,have to use the sledge/twisted wedge or break out the big saw for that brutal stuff........"
As of last Wednesday that Vipukirves ax was $277.08 with shipping to US addresses.....NO WAY!
Splitting elm.
Apple 1.
Apple 2.
Apple 3.
There will be no twist in the wrists, because the splitting technique is such, that you must hold the handle as gently as possible in your hands to allow the rotation.
Do not squeeze the handle.
Do not resist the rotation.
The Leveraxe does not stop suddenly as the conventional axes and mauls.
It stops "slowly" via rotation.
The safety elements act like shock absorber at the time when the blade stops on the top of the block.
HOLY CRAP...and I thought my Tennis Elbow was bad NOW.
Also, it looks like ya have to move in a clock-wise circle only.
$277 is a payment towards a hydraulic splitter no?
The reason why it is advisable to make a clock-wise circle only is because of the design of the axe blade. It is eccentric, one sided. This means that it will lean to the right at the very moment when the edge of the blade touches the surface of the block. The safety elements operate as planned when you hit so, that the right side of the blade turns to the remaining part of the block.
When walking around the chopper block it is safer to move so that you can see the possible obstacles on the ground in front of you.
If circling count a clock-wise you must walk backwards and you do not see the obstacles.
Talking about hydraulic splitter. Competition.
It has nothing to do with the axe. I was commenting on the tree species, phase of water in the wood, and length of round to be split. Fact--some tree species split much easier than others. Fact--in some tree species, the added pressure of frozen water (solid water is larger in volume than liquid water) in the wood can make splitting easier. Also, some species split better after seasoning and some split easier when green. The videos are deceptive unless all testing conditions are disclosed (truthfully) and by knowledgeable test designers.
Force doesn't change due to the shape of the head. Force per unit area contacting the wood on impact (Pressure) does. Impact force is another story.
Because of its much lesser mass, much more velocity (human effort) is required than splitting axe alternatives. I thought the feedback "from all over the world" included reviews form Arboristsite.com?
Please disclose all of your connections, direct and indirect, to this product.
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Just to point out some generalities (yes, I know there are exceptions)
Over the pond (where this was born):
A: it is common for them to cut their wood shorter (small stoves)
B: It is common for them to split smaller (small stoves)
C: Their firewood is mostly of softer varieties
D: There is very little old growth or large trees that are getting used for firewood over there.
All of these things can add up to a hugely different splitting experience than us 'Mericans are used to. That doesn't make it a good or bad tool. It just must be taken into account for using the right tool for the right job. Beating the heck out of some nasty elm ain't this tools place. But snapping sticks off of some straight grained softwoods it might just be the cats meow.
Over the pond (where this was born):
A: it is common for them to cut their wood shorter (small stoves)
B: It is common for them to split smaller (small stoves)
C: Their firewood is mostly of softer varieties
D: There is very little old growth or large trees that are getting used for firewood over there.
All of these things can add up to a hugely different splitting experience than us 'Mericans are used to. That doesn't make it a good or bad tool. It just must be taken into account for using the right tool for the right job. Beating the heck out of some nasty elm ain't this tools place. But snapping sticks off of some straight grained softwoods it might just be the cats meow.
The world is also full of scepticism. There is not much ton be done for that.
There is only the hope that people starts to understand certain physical laws.
http://vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm
This double video shows the difference. Count the number of strikes. Compare the work load.
http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah
I am not sure what that comparison is supposed to show. The Fiskars guy is using a completely different splitting style (trying to bust the log in half then quarters), while the vip is peeling off of the edges AND with what appears to be a shorter round. For every video that you put up, I can post one single pic that proves my point of the proper tool for the proper job and that the VIP is not the answer for all:
![[Hearth.com] Anyone try one of these?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/128/128086-75945050b5cc35f92b9ba564a4c143ee.jpg?hash=EyQZzNLo-R "[Hearth.com] Anyone try one of these?")
Split THAT with ANY hand held tool. I dare you.
I am not, repeat, NOT trying to take anything away from that tool. I was part of the discussion on the original threads about this tool when it was being tested by many people over here. The consensus was pretty clear. Straight grained, easy splitting stuff was where this tool shined. Difficult, gnarly, twisted grain stuff...not so much.
I am not sure what that comparison is supposed to show. The Fiskars guy is using (trying to bust the log in half then quarters), while the vip is peeling off of the edges AND with what appears to be a shorter round. For every video that you put up, I can post one single pic that proves my point of the proper tool for the proper job and that the VIP is not the answer for all:
View attachment 128085
Split THAT with ANY hand held tool. I dare you.
I am not, repeat, NOT trying to take anything away from that tool. I was part of the discussion on the original threads about this tool when it was being tested by many people over here. The consensus was pretty clear. Straight grained, easy splitting stuff was where this tool shined. Difficult, gnarly, twisted grain stuff...not so much.
The whole idea is about the completely different splitting style. The purpose of the videos is to show the other way to split the fire wood.
What ever, the young man had to strike 59 times to get the block splitted. It took 7,05 minutes (425 seconds). Each strike took 7 seconds.
The block was splitted with the Leveraxe in 40 seconds. Each strike took 2 seconds.
It is not prohibited to use the brain when splitting Difficult, gnarly, twisted grain stuff.
The age of the man with the Leveraxe was 69.
What I'm trying to say is, that there is no need to have so much force any more because the certain laws of physics.
Leverage without practically no friction is an invincible combination.
Here's an other way to make the firewood. Also never been before. It is handy with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.
Observe, the man who splits the wood is 69 . Later, after some experiece, the same amount has been splitted in two (2) minutes.
So, one cubic meter of firewood will take six (6) minutes to be splitted. Of course this requires good physical condition for the person who does the job.
I am not, repeat, not trying to take anything away from anybody, just trying to make some peoples life easier.
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bigbarf48
Minister of Fire
I think what people are saying is that this tool comes at an incredibly high premium, but really doesn't do anything that a normal axe can't. Of course it's easier to split off the edges, that's where there's the least resistance, so the above video proves nothing
If this axe could bust a big gnarly piece in half easily, people might be more interested. But as it is, the price doesn't warrant the benefits
If this axe could bust a big gnarly piece in half easily, people might be more interested. But as it is, the price doesn't warrant the benefits
I can't go on. To further this discussion I might be seen as bashing this product - and that is not my intentions. I will let it go at - This tool was tested in the hands of several experienced hand splitters from the states. Many reported good results when in ideal wood. MOST reported poor results in some of our (USA) more difficult woods and more frustration than if typical maul type splitter were used.
The friction argument is doesn't hold for this splitting tool. The momentum of any splitting axe is enough to overcome frictional forces encountered for the few inches that a Leveraxe penetrates the wood.
If the Leveraxe (or any other splitting axe for that matter) doesn't have enough impact force to split (start a split that travels beyond the impact surface) the wood upon initial contact, then a great deal of the frictional forces that slow the head don't come into play, anyway. It is he compression of the wood fibers directly opposite the impact force that essentially accounts for the majority of the deceleration and subsequent stopping of the head.
The Leveraxe is a fine tool that excels with certain types of wood and specific ways of splitting. It is not the best splitter for all types of wood and manners of splitting--no axe is. Around here, we like longer logs and thicker splits, and the best BTU's are found in tougher splitting wood than birch.
I use tools that are up to the challenge of splitting the vast majority of logs around here, and half the time that tool is a 35-ton splitter or an 80cc noodling saw.
If the Leveraxe (or any other splitting axe for that matter) doesn't have enough impact force to split (start a split that travels beyond the impact surface) the wood upon initial contact, then a great deal of the frictional forces that slow the head don't come into play, anyway. It is he compression of the wood fibers directly opposite the impact force that essentially accounts for the majority of the deceleration and subsequent stopping of the head.
The Leveraxe is a fine tool that excels with certain types of wood and specific ways of splitting. It is not the best splitter for all types of wood and manners of splitting--no axe is. Around here, we like longer logs and thicker splits, and the best BTU's are found in tougher splitting wood than birch.
I use tools that are up to the challenge of splitting the vast majority of logs around here, and half the time that tool is a 35-ton splitter or an 80cc noodling saw.
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Fin, do you have a video of someone using your device with one hand only? If you look at my avatar you will see why.
Also, an answer to Tree's question would be nice.
I only wonder why you want to fight against the strongest resistance what you can find in the tree, if there is the way how to beat it more easy.
After all there is no way that you could put the half block to your fireplace.
You right, it is easier to split off the edges especially with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe, because the safety elements stop the blade on the top of the block without the fear that you might hurt yourself.
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