AP5660L Blower and blown 7.5A 250V fuse

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Kinda handy Little Lady here. Started up my clean AP5660L yesterday, the exhaust blower turned on just fine. But the other blower on the right side of the stove would not turn on, got an E4 error and them "POP", I could tell by the noise it was a fuse. After that.... I had power to the machine but the exhaust blower wouldn't blow. Took the control panel off, 7.5A 250V fuse was toast. Black spot, definitely bad. Changed the fuse today, exhaust powered up just fine, other blower still wont start, causing the E4 error because the heat(Im thinking?) is not being pushed out of the stove. Any idea what to do next? Could it be the disc on the exhaust blower causing this? I tried the reset red button above the other blower, but it wasnt triggered/deployed. I appreciate any help I can get, if i put any more layers on I may look like the kid from the Christmas Story
 
Seeings how you blew a fuse I would start by inspecting all the wiring you might have a short(bare wire touching stove) I would pay attention to wire from the proof of fire/low limit thermodisc to board. Also check the thermodisc itself I have seen them fall apart. Here is your trouble shooting guide and a pick of the thermodisc which should be near your exhaust blower.


ER 4


Possible Causes Possible Remedies
The air inlet, burnpot, interior combustion air
chambers, combustion blower, or exhaust pipe
are blocked with ash or foreign material

Follow all cleaning procedures in the
maintenance section of the owner’s manual.

The Proof of Fire (POF) thermodisc has come
unplugged

Check the (POF) thermodisc to see if the wires
are connected properly
The proof of fire (POF) has Malfunctioned Temporarily bypass the POF thermodisc by
disconnecting the two wires and connecting
them with a short piece of wire. Then plug the
stove back up. If the stove comes on and
works, you need to replace the POF
thermodisc. This is for testing only, DO NOT
LEAVE THE THERMODISC BHYPASSED. Your
blowers will never shut off and if the fire went
out the auger will continue feeding pellets
until the hopper is empty if you leave the POF
thermodisc bypassed.
The Hooper is out of Pellets Refill the Hopper
The Hopper Safety Switch has failed or the
Hopper is Open

When operating the unit, be sure the hopper
lid is closed so that the Hopper safety switch
will activate. Check the wires leading from the
hopper safety switch to the control panel and
the auger motor for secure connections. Use a
continuity tester to test the hopper safety
switch; replace if necessary.
The Auger shaft is jammed Start by emptying the hopper. The remove the
auger motor by removing the auger pin then
remove the auger shaft and inspect the shaft
for bent flights, burrs or broken welds.
Remove any foreign materials that might have
caused the jam. Also, check the auger tube for
signs of damage such as burrs, rough spots, or
grooves cut into the metal that could have
caused a jam.
The Auger motor has failed Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft
and try to run the unit. If the motor will turn
the auger shaft is jammed on something. If the
motor will not turn, the motor is bad.

thermodisc.jpg
 

Attachments

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First as posted check all wiring for worn insulation shorting to the stove frame. And fix as needed. Another member recently had this causing blown fuses.

E4 is ignite failure. Or the stove doesn’t think it has ignited. Does it actually ignite?

A dirty stove and pipe can cause this. Make sure the stove and all passages are clean. Bolted ash traps too behind the side covers, they fill up.

Also the thermodisc by the exhaust blower. They go bad, but sometimes they are just covered with soot and cleaning them helps.

If you’re still having issues, you can do this. Scroll about 1/3 the way down this page to the board test. I’m assuming you have the board on top of the stove with the bar graph display for heat range? Then you have this same board.

 
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Seeings how you blew a fuse I would start by inspecting all the wiring you might have a short(bare wire touching stove) I would pay attention to wire from the proof of fire/low limit thermodisc to board. Also check the thermodisc itself I have seen them fall apart. Here is your trouble shooting guide and a pick of the thermodisc which should be near your exhaust blower.


ER 4


Possible Causes Possible Remedies
The air inlet, burnpot, interior combustion air
chambers, combustion blower, or exhaust pipe
are blocked with ash or foreign material

Follow all cleaning procedures in the
maintenance section of the owner’s manual.

The Proof of Fire (POF) thermodisc has come
unplugged

Check the (POF) thermodisc to see if the wires
are connected properly
The proof of fire (POF) has Malfunctioned Temporarily bypass the POF thermodisc by
disconnecting the two wires and connecting
them with a short piece of wire. Then plug the
stove back up. If the stove comes on and
works, you need to replace the POF
thermodisc. This is for testing only, DO NOT
LEAVE THE THERMODISC BHYPASSED. Your
blowers will never shut off and if the fire went
out the auger will continue feeding pellets
until the hopper is empty if you leave the POF
thermodisc bypassed.
The Hooper is out of Pellets Refill the Hopper
The Hopper Safety Switch has failed or the
Hopper is Open

When operating the unit, be sure the hopper
lid is closed so that the Hopper safety switch
will activate. Check the wires leading from the
hopper safety switch to the control panel and
the auger motor for secure connections. Use a
continuity tester to test the hopper safety
switch; replace if necessary.
The Auger shaft is jammed Start by emptying the hopper. The remove the
auger motor by removing the auger pin then
remove the auger shaft and inspect the shaft
for bent flights, burrs or broken welds.
Remove any foreign materials that might have
caused the jam. Also, check the auger tube for
signs of damage such as burrs, rough spots, or
grooves cut into the metal that could have
caused a jam.
The Auger motor has failed Remove the auger motor from the auger shaft
and try to run the unit. If the motor will turn
the auger shaft is jammed on something. If the
motor will not turn, the motor is bad.

View attachment 299947
Thanks for the reply. I just checked wiring, it appears to be ok, no bare wires and everything connected. The unit does ignite and have flame.

Stupid question, does the thermodisc by the exhaust, actually control the power up of the other blower? Also when I make the jump wire for the thermodisc, I am connecting the jump wire to the 2 wires from the thermodisc? What should happen when i do?
 
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First as posted check all wiring for worn insulation shorting to the stove frame. And fix as needed. Another member recently had this causing blown fuses.

E4 is ignite failure. Or the stove doesn’t think it has ignited. Does it actually ignite?

A dirty stove and pipe can cause this. Make sure the stove and all passages are clean. Bolted ash traps too behind the side covers, they fill up.

Also the thermodisc by the exhaust blower. They go bad, but sometimes they are just covered with soot and cleaning them helps.

If you’re still having issues, you can do this. Scroll about 1/3 the way down this page to the board test. I’m assuming you have the board on top of the stove with the bar graph display for heat range? Then you have this same board.

Thanks for the reply. I just checked wiring, it appears to be ok, no bare wires and everything connected. The unit does ignite and have flame. All the ashtraps have been cleaned. I think my thermodisc is clean, I attached a pic. Yes, I have the board with the bar graph. But what does the board test do?

AP5660L Blower and blown 7.5A 250V fuse
 
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Thanks for the reply. I just checked wiring, it appears to be ok, no bare wires and everything connected. The unit does ignite and have flame.

Stupid question, does the thermodisc by the exhaust, actually control the power up of the other blower? Also when I make the jump wire for the thermodisc, I am connecting the jump wire to the 2 wires from the thermodisc? What should happen when i do?
You disconnect both wires from the thermodisc, then connect both those wires together with a jumper. (Make sure not to touch the jumper against anything or it will short out.) When you connect them, the other blower should start running all by itself. At least mine does, it’s the same board.

Normal operation is when it ignites and heats up, the thermodisc trips and starts the other blower. Then on shutdown the other blower keeps running until the thermodisc says it’s cooled off.

Also, the thermodisc is a safety. If it thinks there is no fire, it will shut off and stop the stove. If you jump it and the fire really does go out, the pellets will just keep feeding. So don’t run it with the jumper if the stove will be unattended. Use only for testing.
 
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Got it. Thank you 🙂 I will do exactly that. Ive never done something like this before so a couple more silly questions. When doing this jump wire technique to test, do i unplug the stove prior to connecting the jump wire, and then plug back in to test it? If it starts the other blower up, does that mean I need a new thermodisc?
 
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You disconnect both wires from the thermodisc, then connect both those wires together with a jumper. (Make sure not to touch the jumper against anything or it will short out.) When you connect them, the other blower should start running all by itself. At least mine does, it’s the same board.

Normal operation is when it ignites and heats up, the thermodisc trips and starts the other blower. Then on shutdown the other blower keeps running until the thermodisc says it’s cooled off.

Also, the thermodisc is a safety. If it thinks there is no fire, it will shut off and stop the stove. If you jump it and the fire really does go out, the pellets will just keep feeding. So don’t run it with the jumper if the stove will be unattended. Use only for testing.
Another question, what type of jumper wire should i be buying to connect the wires. Ive attached a pic of the wires ends. Thanks for the help 🙂

AP5660L Blower and blown 7.5A 250V fuse
 
Got it. Thank you 🙂 I will do exactly that. Ive never done something like this before so a couple more silly questions. When doing this jump wire technique to test, do i unplug the stove prior to connecting the jump wire, and then plug back in to test it? If it starts the other blower up, does that mean I need a new thermodisc?
Yes, as ARC said you really should unplug the stove before working with wiring. I would also put a piece of tape around the jumper so it doesn’t fall against anything or fall apart and short against something. Then plug the stove in. And if the other blower starts up, you replace the thermodisc. They wear out and you’ll need one eventually anyway.

The board test is a quick way to walk through everything and confirm it works.

I’d still be wondering what caused the fuse to blow to begin with, so keep an eye on things. I wonder if maybe a short going to the other blower. Does the other blower spin free? Sounds like either a short going to the other blower or maybe it binding and causing the fuse to blow.
 
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Another question, what type of jumper wire should i be buying to connect the wires. Ive attached a pic of the wires ends. Thanks for the help 🙂

View attachment 299964
You can use a paperclip and fold it up so it goes into both connectors securely. Just wrap it with tape so it doesn’t short against anything. Piece of standard lamp cord will work too.
 
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Yes, as ARC said you really should unplug the stove before working with wiring. I would also put a piece of tape around the jumper so it doesn’t fall against anything or fall apart and short against something. Then plug the stove in. And if the other blower starts up, you replace the thermodisc. They wear out and you’ll need one eventually anyway.

The board test is a quick way to walk through everything and confirm it works.

I’d still be wondering what caused the fuse to blow to begin with, so keep an eye on things. I wonder if maybe a short going to the other blower. Does the other blower spin free? Sounds like either a short going to the other blower or maybe it binding and causing the fuse to blow.
Thanks, I will be sure to follow these steps. Both blowers spin freely, without any hesitation or noise when spun manually.
 
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does the thermodisc by the exhaust, actually control the power up of the other blower
Yes it does, when you jump the wires together as soon as you press on button fan should start and not turn off until you push off button. If you make a jumper wire it takes two male spades and 14 or 16 gage wire is best any old lamp cord would be fine. Even with the jumper wire you should tape connections.

AP5660L Blower and blown 7.5A 250V fuse
 
Yes it does, when you jump the wires together as soon as you press on button fan should start and not turn off until you push off button. If you make a jumper wire it takes two male spades and 14 or 16 gage wire is best any old lamp cord would be fine. Even with the jumper wire you should tape connections.

View attachment 299977

Ok hope you get it figured out. I’m back to work now so won’t be on much till later today.
Just an update to you guys who helped me figure this out. I have been busy with work, but finally today, i ran the jump wire and the fan came on! When I took the themodisc off, it was filthy, brushed and cleaned it off, reconnected everything and it is running smoothly. Thank you so much guys, you saved me a chunk of money on getting a tech to check it out. I will still order a themodisc to have as a backup just in case. My blue house is warm, and I appreciate your help. Have a warm and wonderful weekend! 🔥