I have an appalachian wood burning insert, the company is no help, they havent made it in years,appears to be a 32 but not sure the exact model its one of the first models with a catalyst.I ordered a new catalyst for it a couple years ago but the door is warped so it wants to smoke out the front when its its catalyst mode, the door is flat on front with angles on both sides and is no longer made.I live in an area that doesn't stay cold so i only burn maybe a cord or 2 of wood all winter.My question is can i somehow convert this thing into an old school insert and do away with the catalyst.The way it is now you have to baby set it to keep it hot, to much heat goes up the flue.I am a mechanic, fabricator by trade.I have welders, torch,milling machines etc...
Appalachian wood burning insert question.
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Based on your mechanic/fabricator background, it sounds like you could modify the stove. Of course no stove is going to operate great with a warped door. So that should be the first issue to tackle. In doing that, you might bring it back around to good operating condition in the current form.
Given your location, mention of smoke spilling out the door and babysitting to keep the stove hot, I have to ask 'what is your flue like'? Sounds like the draft is pretty marginal. If you don't get into the really chilly winter air, anything less than 'ideal' on the flue may cause problems.
Given your location, mention of smoke spilling out the door and babysitting to keep the stove hot, I have to ask 'what is your flue like'? Sounds like the draft is pretty marginal. If you don't get into the really chilly winter air, anything less than 'ideal' on the flue may cause problems.
Thanks for answering.The flue is 10inch square clay inside of brick 25 feet tall, if i light a piece of paper and hold it up to it, sucks it out of my hand.The door of the stove is cast so no way to straighten it, plus it had 3 different angles on it.Oh and i recently had the flue cleaned just in case.
So it is just slid into the fireplace with no connection? That is very unsafe and is no longer a legal way to install.
An install/chimney like that, plus your southerly location is going to make for some poor drafting. As mentioned, likely 'illegal'...though between you, me and Santa...as I don't know that there have been any FBI 'chimney raids' lol. But if anything ever goes wrong, insurance would likely point to that and say 'denied'. If you already have the elbow, it would be ideal to extend an insulated liner up from that to the chimney top.
As far as the door, that is where the metalworking skills would come in. Doubtful you'd find an exact replacement, though possibly a door off a different stove would fit with some re-arranging of the hinges/latch, or possibly just build a new door from scratch. Either way, the door needs to seal to work properly. If you continue with poor draft, the door is going to continue leaking smoke and requiring babysitting. If you fix the draft, then the stove will likely take off like a rocket and overfire with the leaky door.
As far as the door, that is where the metalworking skills would come in. Doubtful you'd find an exact replacement, though possibly a door off a different stove would fit with some re-arranging of the hinges/latch, or possibly just build a new door from scratch. Either way, the door needs to seal to work properly. If you continue with poor draft, the door is going to continue leaking smoke and requiring babysitting. If you fix the draft, then the stove will likely take off like a rocket and overfire with the leaky door.
Thanks for the reply.You might be correct...I have seen alot on inserts down here,nobody puts a pipe in a chimney and its not required at all.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
So as a point of reference I just DIY installed a new Drolet 1800i insert with insulated liner for $2000 including tax.
If you can’t fix the door its value is only scrap. What size round liner will it require? Very very few new inserts use 8” liners.
It’s not very efficient and not meeting code (not safe). Yes it could all be fixed and your left with an old not very efficient catalytic insert. That would not be my choice.
If you can’t fix the door its value is only scrap. What size round liner will it require? Very very few new inserts use 8” liners.
It’s not very efficient and not meeting code (not safe). Yes it could all be fixed and your left with an old not very efficient catalytic insert. That would not be my choice.
Everyone might be right about the chimney being to big and putting a liner in it.If my memory is right the elbow out of the stove is 6ins.I guess all these new inserts are sensitive to that.I grew up with an 80's model amberharth and it went straight up a chimney,didnt even half an elbow, worked great.Trouble is as much as the new inserts cost and installing liners.Its not worth it down here're can burn gas...I just like the wood heat better.Not looking to cost efficient though.
It absolutely is required. For legal reasons performance reasons and safety reasons
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I have two wood stoves. All electric (heat pump). I’ll never recuperate my install cost. (Maybe if electric rates double or triple). But I can stay toasty warm even without power and enjoy the fires and heating with a renewable resource.
Installs like those worked marginally. And caused many fires and deaths which is why the code was written to make them not allowed.
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