assembing the stovepipe

[RobinGoodfellow]

Hi. I'm new to all this. I am trying to assemble stove pipe to run up my chimney almost to the top. That will take about 18 feet. I have a bunch of 2-foot sections of pipe metal which you have to snap together to form a cylinder. That I can do. The problem I'm having then is sticking the crimped end of one into the other. Is there some sort of trick or specfial tool I need. These are not perfect cylinders - it is flexible enough that I can deform it - but after wrestling with this for about 30 minutes I realized that there must be something I'm missing here. Can someone help me?

I can post pics if necessary.

..robin

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Pics would be best. With my pipe it was as simple as putting the crimped end into the non crimped end. Is this singlewall or doublewall pipe?

 

[oconnor]

... I am trying to assemble stove pipe to run up my chimney almost to the top. That will take about 18 feet. I have a bunch of 2-foot sections of pipe metal which you have to snap together to form a cylinder. That I can do. ...
..robin

Are you running the pipe inside the chimney? That is what your post sounds like - if so, do not do that. Inside the chimney you need a stainless liner designed for the job.

In the event that I am reading you wrong, when you install the pipe as smoke pipe to connect the stove to the flue, install it crimped end down, so it is inside the top of the piece below. With the snap type pipe, it can be a trick to line it all up. Make sure you use screws at each joint - 3 or 4 at each joint. The force exerted on each joint by the pipe above can cause the seam to unzip, especially if you have 18 feet of it. Use stainless screws.

That said, 18 feet of smoke pipe is really long, and doing it with 2 foot sections is not a good plan if you have other options.

Please confirm for me you are using this as smoke pipe, and not to line your chimney.

 

[awoodman]

18 ' is going to get real heavy sounds like a 2 man job. Are you trying to hold it up and fit another at the same time.

 

[RobinGoodfellow]

Oh boy. Yeah. I can tell from the responses already I'm in trouble here.

I am evacuating the stove into a masonry chimney (which a chimney sweep just maintained and told me is in very good condition). I was planning to run a 6" pipe up the chimney close to the top. I managed to get the metal sheets to join together into cylinders. But the cylinders are strong and I'm having trouble fitting the male end into the female end. FLASH: I just figured out now that I can probably make this happen by using pliers to bend in the edges of the male end. I'm trying this as soon as I finish this post.

See - I was given a Vermont Casting Resolute, 1979 for free. And I have a forest behind my home. So hey!! I have to take advantage of this. It's a thing of beauty. I just have to fit the pipes together to get to within a few feet of the top of that chimney. Another minor problem is that there is a damper at the top of the fire box in the chimney - I have to have a reducer (6" circular to 4"x10") then a reciever (4"x10" to 6" circular).

I know I should get a contractor to remove the fire box damper - then get a liner installed by a chimney contractor. But I was hoping not to spend a ton of $$$.

Anyway - what do you think of crimping the male end of the pipes to make them fit??

thanks for all serious replies,

..robin

 

[LLigetfa]

Stagger the seams. Take the uncrimped end and run some hard steel around the inside, slightly curling the edge outward. Be very careful not to get your hand near the edge as it will cut you.

 

[LLigetfa]

Oh, and hammer the seam as flat as you can at the ends.

 

[fossil]

What you really need to do is stop what you're doing, because it's wrong, unapproved, and unsafe. What you've got is stovepipe, or connector pipe (same thing). It's only approved for use from the flue collar of the appliance to wherever it's going to leave the room in which the appliance is to be located. After that, everything from there to daylight needs to be Class A chimney or chimney liner, and the way you make the transition is every bit as important. There's a whole lot to it. Maybe start with a more detailed description of the installation, along with some photographs, and we'll do everything we can to keep you alive. Rick

 

[Pagey]

Please take a moment to read this article:
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/pages/masonry.html)

It will show you the best way to vent a stove into a masonry chimney. Please be safe!

 

[oconnor]

STOP.

That is what I thought I read in the first post. Do Not Proceed with your plan.

You need a chimney liner, not stove pipe. Proceeding with your plan is risky, and likely not cheaper than buying 18 feet of liner.

Note to the rest of us - read questions carefully - often the question we think is being asked isn't the one that needs answered. Without experience, it is difficult for a newcomer to even know what question to ask, and this post is a perfect example.

 

[DAKSY]

You guys got it right.
He needs to STOP & rethink the system!! Check NFPA 211 for the correct components for woodstove install.
Trash the crap connector you've got. It's 24 gauge & won't last very long. Get yourself AT LEAST some welded seam 22 Gauge from the top of your stove to the wall thimble.
Better yet, use double-wall connector for the reduction in clearances & increased safety!
From there you need to run a stainless steel tee kit to the chimney cap - IF you're going thru a masonry /terra cotta flue.
If you're going thru the wall you'll need a Class A thimble & tee system running a minimum of three feet past the roof line & from there, 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet horizontally...
Remember this: You want fire to HEAT your home...not EAT it!
You can pay to replace your SYSTEM now, or pay to replace your HOME later - if you're still around...

 

[RobinGoodfellow]

OK - well thanks for the feedback. At this point I've decided to go to a stove shop and ask about the flexible chimney lining that is shown so well on the link that Pagey provided.

Please take a moment to read this article:
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/pages/masonry.html)

That seems to be something I could do myself.

Another question. Here's side & top views of the stove. Could I convert it so that the pipe comes out the back instead of out the top? If not - I'll have to locate the stove completely inside the fireplace because there is only a few inches clearance. I don't mind doing that but it would be nicer if the stove could be set in front of the fireplace on the brick apron.

 

[RobinGoodfellow]

One other quick question if you don't mind. I've had a couple fires in this (outside of course) with only a 6-inch pipe coming out the top. The fires seemed lazy to me and burned out before completely using the wood. Will it burn better after a being connected to a chimney liner - or an I just not using the flues correctly?

I can see that the main flue is the flap on the bottom left. But what is the little round hole on the right. For my fires I had both of them full open - it might be ok but I'd like to have seen a more vigorous fire.

 

[Shari]

It looks like you have a Vermont Castings stove. Prior to installation, locate the owners manual to find a specifications for installation. You need to find out required clearances to combustibles before you continue your installation. Clearances vary from manufacturer to manfacturer - i.e. there is no common requirement.

Shari

 

[DAKSY]

Another question. Here's side & top views of the stove. Could I convert it so that the pipe comes out the back instead of out the top? If not - I'll have to locate the stove completely inside the fireplace because there is only a few inches clearance. I don't mind doing that but it would be nicer if the stove could be set in front of the fireplace on the brick apron.<.

Your stove has an adjustable flue collar, so it can be rear vented. If you can get the screws out, you'll hafta replace the gasket between the flue collar & the stove body, before you replace the flue collar...
If you do not have a rating plate on the stove, NFPA 211 directs you to have 36" of clearance to ALL combustibles...
As far as your hearth protection, NFPA 211 dictates that you have 16" in front of the glass...
Good luck with your install!

 

[beau5278]

One other quick question if you don't mind. I've had a couple fires in this (outside of course) with only a 6-inch pipe coming out the top. The fires seemed lazy to me and burned out before completely using the wood. Will it burn better after a being connected to a chimney liner - or an I just not using the flues correctly?

I can see that the main flue is the flap on the bottom left. But what is the little round hole on the right. For my fires I had both of them full open - it might be ok but I'd like to have seen a more vigorous fire.

You won't get the stove to burn correctly until it is properly installed,wood stoves need draft to work properly,if you were burning it outside,even with a couple feet of pipe on it,you weren't getting enough draft.As far as draft settings,if you don't have a manual for the stove,see if you can get one to familiarize yourself with the settings but it will still take some experimenting once it's installed.

 

[RobinGoodfellow]

I'm trying to alter the vent to face the back instead of the top. Looking at the pic below - the left screw is frozen (and the right one is missing). I've done about everything can to loosen the left screw - I'll try again tomorrow. But if I cannot, does anyone have any recommendations? I'm going to call a local handyman next. If I break the screw I'm not sure I can replace it because strictly the Resolute (from 1979) isn't made anymore so I don't know if I could get replacement parts. They do make a Resolute Acclaim. I'd take it to a Vermont Castings dealer dealer - but it's too heavy to put into my car.

OK - well thanks for the feedback. At this point I've decided to go to a stove shop and ask about the flexible chimney lining that is shown so well on the link that Pagey provided.

Please take a moment to read this article:
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/pages/masonry.html)

That seems to be something I could do myself.

Another question. Here's side & top views of the stove. Could I convert it so that the pipe comes out the back instead of out the top? If not - I'll have to locate the stove completely inside the fireplace because there is only a few inches clearance. I don't mind doing that but it would be nicer if the stove could be set in front of the fireplace on the brick apron.

 

[oconnor]

You probably know this already, but to free it up, try to tighten the screw a touch, as well, try striking it with a hammer and a wide punch. This might get it to move. If you do break it off, not a huge deal. You may be able to drill and tap a new hole, or even use a screw extractor tp back it out. Wrst case, I think you could drill both sides and use a bolt and nut, assuming you can reach the hole on the inside

That said - this seems like a lot of work for a smoke dragon, especially one that doesn't have a glass door so you can see the fire. I'd suggest you will get better results from a used EPA stove. Check the classifieds/craigslist in your area to get an idea what it would cost. In the end, you will use less wood (I know your wood is free, but your time isn't). You should be able to get a stove for $250 if you are patient.

 

[barnartist]

Hi Fellas. I have 2 sections of the black pipe before it goes into some stainless double wall. I must have installed it upside down, because I get what must be the inside condensation dripping trails of water down the pipe. I was thinking it needed to be the other way for smoke purposes. I think I also went this direction because the crimped end fit into the stainless this way. While I will probably finish this season in this manner, what is the best plan to seal the sections, particularly going from the black pipe to the stainless.

Also, I should probably insulate with some wool type material, not sure what to look for and where to get it.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you have moisture condensing that close to the stove, it is the proverbial canary in the coal mine. Heed the warning! Don't burn wet wood! It also means that creosote will form further up the chimney.

 

[DAKSY]

[quote author="RobinGoodfellow" date="1229147975"]I've done about everything can to loosen the left screw - I'll try again tomorrow. But if I cannot, does anyone have any recommendations? I'm going to call a local handyman next. If I break the screw I'm not sure I can replace it because strictly the Resolute (from 1979) isn't made anymore so I don't know if I could get replacement parts. They do make a Resolute Acclaim. I'd take it to a Vermont Castings dealer dealer - but it's too heavy to put into my car.

Don't worry if you break the remaining screw, you hafta remove the other one anyway...
IIRC, the screws holding you flue collar in position are 1/4-20 threads...standard at any hardware store...
Grab a couple different lengths
If you've got a hand or cordless drill, get a #7 drill bit & drill the screw out..make sure you hold the drill at the same angle as the screw.
Also get a 1/4 starter tap & a tee handle tap wrench...Total investment should be $25 or less
You'l hafta re-tap the hole to clean out the remains of the screw, but you should be good to go...

 

[oconnor]

Hi Fellas. I have 2 sections of the black pipe before it goes into some stainless double wall. I must have installed it upside down, because I get what must be the inside condensation dripping trails of water down the pipe. I was thinking it needed to be the other way for smoke purposes. I think I also went this direction because the crimped end fit into the stainless this way. While I will probably finish this season in this manner, what is the best plan to seal the sections, particularly going from the black pipe to the stainless.

Also, I should probably insulate with some wool type material, not sure what to look for and where to get it.

Sounds like you are missing the smoke pipe adapter for your stainless chimney - that would give you the correct fit for the pipe.

I agree with the Canary in a Coal Mine analogy - if you are getting liguid running out the cracks, it isn't water - it's likely liquid creosote.

Really, I would flip the pipe around before spending money on stove cement to seal the joints - wouldn't want liquid fire to run out the cracks if a chimney fire started.