Austroflamm Integra Freestanding Operating Problems

[shumiron]

I acquired an older Austroflamm Integra freestanding pellet stove probably built in 1993, 94, or 95. The stove seems to be very clean and in good condition. I did get a new burn pot since the old pot was broken. I have run into some problems when I tried operating the stove.

• I start a fire in burn pot according to user manual. The on/off switch is on. I close the door and I can see the flame change to a clean flame with the blower activated. I have the POWER set at mid range on control panel.
  
• The flame burns well until the fuel is burned up but the feeder never operates.
• The exhaust fan is working.
• The heat output (convection air) fan does not turn on, altho I can feel heat coming from the vents. When I turn off the stove the convection air fan did turn on during cool down.

• The auger LED flashes on and off during the time the switch is ON, but the auger does not operate.

If anyone has experience with this stove I would appreciate any suggestions for troubleshooting.

Thanks

 

[Lake Girl]

Have you gone through the troubleshooting section of the manual? (page 44 on the pdf) http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf
This seems to be one of the better manuals I've seen for a pellet stove The convection fan will not turn on immediately as it likely has not burned enough fuel to trigger the fan low limit snap disc - doesn't get hot enough...

Auger troubleshooting: Easy ones first - checked the auger for jams (unplug stove first)? checked the high limit switch? - should have a reset button on it. Work through what you can and let us know.

Others will hopefully chime in when it comes to checking wiring....

 

[Mt Bob]

Take center back of stove off,auger motor very easy to get to.Board is working,fans normal,auger light nornal,no reset on high limit.Make sure auger motor plugged in at motor.You can see if motor part is running but gear box is not.If hums but doesnt move auger,check for jam,easy to fix,scoop pellets out of bin,remove 6 screws on auger plate and lift off,vac. out.Motor can be hooked direct to 120 volt outlet for testing.

 

[RKBAGUY]

Depends on whether the motor is turning at all.

Sometimes the Integras get what we call 'logic lock'. Try turning the auger switch off, unplugging the stove for 30 seconds, replug the stove, and turn the auger switch back on to see if the stove will go through the startup procedure and feed pellets. If not, give Bob's diagnostic procedure a try.

Also, one other thing - I'm not familiar with the design of the freestanding model, but with my insert, I frequently have to vacuum out unburned pellet bits out of the chamber beneath the burn pot. If there's an accumulation of those, it might be restricting airflow and the sensor will assume a blockage and stop the auger.

 

[AbetterChimneynm]

On the néwer rika integras they have. Exhaust sensor not sure if that stove has one or not but would be worth looking at

 

[wwert]

Bad proof of fire snap disc I think. It's the 1 mounted on the combustion motor.

 

[Mt Bob]

Auger light flashing means board sending power out to auger motor.Weather it is getting there remains to be seen.Gearbox could have stripped gear.Auger could be jammed.Wire could be off motor,etc.If airflow was blocked there would be no flashing auger lamp.Low temp switch on combustion blower is ignored during startup(allowing stove to run to warm up)and is tested at 10 to 15 minutes in,if ok stove stays running.Convection fan can come on anytime after 8 minutes,depending on eprom.Low temp switch does not directly control fan like a lot of stoves,is done through programming.Hope this clears things up.Bob

 

[RKBAGUY]

Auger light flashing means board sending power out to auger motor.

Another option is that the auger-to-motor locking collar slipped off and just needs to be reattached. Happened to me once.

 

[Mark_ms]

Ditto to all of the above when you look at auger motor be sure and check to see if the bushing is good/bad. If there is a pile of "sawdust" directly under auger motor bushing needs replacement

 

[shumiron]

Hello - Thanks for the help you guys. I did check out the pellet auger today and it was jammed. Took it out, cleaned it up. Put some new grease on the bushing end and everything works great now. Thank you, Lake Girl, for the tech manual link. Just what I needed, very informative.

FYI - I actually am in sunny Southern California so this stove may not be used all that much. Location of house is in an area North of San Diego where cold winter temps may get down to freezing on occasion. But it is an old house and can get pretty cool inside in the mornings. The stove is the only source of heat.

I do have some questions about the exhaust ducting. I am replacing an old wood burning stove which has a 6" single wall black stove pipe coming down from a 8" id zero clearance steel manufactured chimney we have been using for a few years with the wood-burner. I will use the chimney and black stove pipe with a 3" to 6" adapter to connect to the exhaust from the Integra. I thought I can use a single wall rigid 3" T and a 3" 90 elbow to get from the exhaust port on the left side of the stove to the center of the stove (about 9" distance) where the stovepipe comes down. I read in the installation instructions that a T should be used to allow cleaning out any ash collecting in the exhaust ducting. They show the middle leg of the T connecting to the stove exhaust; the upper leg goes to the stove pipe; and the lower leg is not connected, which i assume is where the ash will come out when cleaning. I don't know how the bottom of the T is sealed and yet easy to open to access collecting the ash. I will use high temp silicon on all ducting joints to make sure system is completely sealed. I planned on using 3" single wall galvanized ducting elbow and T. Is this OK?

Regarding the air intake port - is porting outside to fresh air best or is getting air from inside the house OK?

Lots of stuff in this post...please don't fall asleep while reading....

 

[shumiron]

Another bit of info re: my stove location.

I think all the installation info calls for double wall pipe to protect against proximity to combustible materials. I have the entire wall where the stove pipe runs up to the chimney pipe protected with noncombustible material and a 9" space from the pipe. I also have a solid brick platform/hearth the stove sits on with a brick wall behind the stove. So I have no concerns about stove proximity to the wall. I was interested in how cool the body of the stove (except the glass doors in front) remained while the fire was burning. Our old wood burning stove is cast iron and the entire body of the stove gets very hot which, of course, is how it heats the space - radiating heat.