Automatic Draft Control

[Captain Hornet]

Gentlemen, I seam to remember from times past about a automatic draft control available for Fisher stoves, This was a non Fisher part that was aftermarket. It fit on the front of the stove replacing one of the draft spinners. I was wondering if anyone knows about them and how they worked. It was probably a simple bi matelic strip. Are they still available? Does anyone know where I could get one? David

 

[coaly]

Yes, they worked good. By-metal spring that opens as they cool. Sotz was a big name brand that also made the Sotz Monster Maul.
They do come up on eBay from time to time. Sometimes not cheap.


Condar is another brand;
The Box !!

There are other ways to add auto draft control. If UL Listed, it will loose it's listing since it was not tested with the modification.
I added a "Dial heat Regulator" thermostat that Hitzer Stoves use from Bern Indiana. Woodman's Associates has them as a replacement part. By-metal spring with linkage connects flapper door with pull chain. Sense heat from stove back and works very well.
Here's the back of my Kitchen Queen. This makes mine able to burn coal as well since I installed it under the grate in the ash pan area. (the builder installs them as well for Amish customers that self insure and are not concerned about the UL rating)

 

[Captain Hornet]

Coaly, Thank you for your reply. The control that Hitzer uses is not a option because my stove is a Mama fireplace insert. There is no room behind my stove. The Stoltz and Condor units look like holes have to be drilled into the stove door. I'm not sure I want to perminately modify the doors like that, My stove is a early one with out certification so the lack of documentation is not a problem. I modified my stove with a solid liner pipe to the roof and a ducted fan. Much improvement. I also added a fire baffle about three years ago. Was reading your words about the baffle needing 50 sq inches if a 8 inch liner. I had spaced my liner so there was 5 inches between the liner and the top of the stove. Way too much room, I figure 250 inches , so last week I moved the baffle up so there is only 2 inches between the stove and the baffle. That gives me 50 sq inches. I was worried about smoke in the house but so far that has not happened. The stove runs much hotter and is easier to burn. I hope the lower flue temps do not cause more creasote. You were absolutely right about the baffle. Thank you for your advise and kind words. David

 

[mark cline]

I have the Sotz Auto Draft on my Grandma bear . I put it on back in the early 80's , works great gives a nice even temp . I have looked over the years for another on and only saw one on Ebay but it sold for over $50 plus shipping. New I think I paid about 25 maybe.
No drilling is necessary , you remove the spin draft and the mounting screw goes through the hole the spinner was screwed into then a wing nut to hold it . A thick round gasket , sealed the gap if there is any irregularities like on my fisher that has the pine trees on the door.

 

[coaly]

Captain; Like Mark states, they use the draft cap bolt with no drilling. If you find one without gasket, door gasket material works fine.

All Fisher Fireplace Inserts were UL approved and tested to UL MH11652. They started in 1980 with the new style doors. They didn't have tags at first, but the manual shows the listing number on the front cover.
There is no "Mama" Insert. No bear name was given to the full size Insert. They do use Grandma doors.
Smaller inserts were Honey Bear, Cub Bear and the Polar Bear was made for zero clearance fireplaces. (much larger air space around firebox and double air outlet across top).

Watch your creosote formation with the minimum smoke space above baffle. That worked OK with a insulated flue I tested most models with. You could run too cool depending on heat needed for your particular chimney. If so, drop it to about 3 inches of smoke space.

Mark; They are Fir trees on the door. That is the most common in the local area where the stoves were designed. Soft woods were the only fuel that the first stoves built burned. They held a special significance to Bob Fisher, so were used on all the solid door stoves.

 

[mark cline]

Captain; Like Mark states, they use the draft cap bolt with no drilling. If you find one without gasket, door gasket material works fine.

All Fisher Fireplace Inserts were UL approved and tested to UL MH11652. They started in 1980 with the new style doors. They didn't have tags at first, but the manual shows the listing number on the front cover.
There is no "Mama" Insert. No bear name was given to the full size Insert. They do use Grandma doors.
Smaller inserts were Honey Bear, Cub Bear and the Polar Bear was made for zero clearance fireplaces. (much larger air space around firebox and double air outlet across top).

Watch your creosote formation with the minimum smoke space above baffle. That worked OK with a insulated flue I tested most models with. You could run too cool depending on heat needed for your particular chimney. If so, drop it to about 3 inches of smoke space.

Mark; They are Fir trees on the door. That is the most common in the local area where the stoves were designed. Soft woods were the only fuel that the first stoves built burned. They held a special significance to Bob Fisher, so were used on all the solid door stoves.

That's cool about the fir trees, nice to have some history with the Fishers.
When I bought my Grandma Bear , back in 1981, it heated my house up until I replaced it with the Mansfield in Dec 2013. Then it sat up in the barn for 2 winters , now its happily heating my 1500 sq. ft basement man cave .

 

[Jeff Schwan]

Yes, they worked good. By-metal spring that opens as they cool. Sotz was a big name brand that also made the Sotz Monster Maul.
They do come up on eBay from time to time. Sometimes not cheap.
View attachment 166829 View attachment 166830

Condar is another brand;
View attachment 166828 View attachment 166832 The Box !!

There are other ways to add auto draft control. If UL Listed, it will loose it's listing since it was not tested with the modification.
I added a "Dial heat Regulator" thermostat that Hitzer Stoves use from Bern Indiana. Woodman's Associates has them as a replacement part. By-metal spring with linkage connects flapper door with pull chain. Sense heat from stove back and works very well.
Here's the back of my Kitchen Queen. This makes mine able to burn coal as well since I installed it under the grate in the ash pan area. (the builder installs them as well for Amish customers that self insure and are not concerned about the UL rating)

View attachment 166833 View attachment 166834 View attachment 166835

View attachment 166836 View attachment 166837

I was involved in the development of the first Condar thermostat about 1977 in Garrettsville OH and am looking for one to put on my wood stove here in Georgia. does anyone know where I can find one?

 

[coaly]

They come up for sale on eBay from time to time. The pictures above came from eBay auctions.
There is a nice Condar draft gauge currently on eBay and a 1983 Condar cat trivet.