Avalon Olympic Stove tested again and another satisfied owner

[Jfk4th]

Well tis the season and after buying my Olympic in April I never really had the chance to try an overnight burn. Last night I had her going since about 3 pm and at 10:00pm I decided to put 2 huge splits east/west and shut her down for the night (about 1/5 open).

I kept my Florida room door open, super-quiet door fan on (awesome door fan by the way...), ceiling fan on very low and went to bed. Now this Florida room is about 30 feet away from our stairs that leads upstairs to my bedroom and more importantly my sons. The heat from the Florida room has to go through our breezway and living before it gets to the stairs so it is going a long way. I looked at the temp in my sons room at 10pm and it was 65F pretty good for sleeping at night. I woke up around 7:00am and to my delight there were still plenty of hot coals, enough to put in 2 more smaller splits and start up a fire right away. Stove top temp was 325 in the morning ...not too bad either. Upstairs temp was 64 in my sons room, I am OK with that.

Now the re-learning starts, it was not a perfect burn since the glass was jet black, but with only 2 big splits I was happy to get that kind of heat and still have coals after 9 hours. Also it was only about 35F last night, not super cold but not warm either.

Many of my splits are over 16 inches so I don't have the luxury of burning north/south with east/west splits. But they are big splits and the wood was free (about 10 face cords) so I am not complaining.

I am going to try to stuff a little more in next time and burn a little hotter, maybe 1/4th-1/3rd open instead of 1/5th, this should help the glass to stay cleaner.

If any other Olympic owners want to to chime in feel free

I love this stove, the curring smell is long gone and the seasoned split wood is already stuffed in the garage. It is going to be a warm winter :lol:

 

[kevin85]

I am in the same boat as you. I bought my Olympic in April too and only burned a few fires last spring. So far, I have had 4 fires this fall and have also been experimenting with air control and split sizes. I am actually burning dry, but odd shaped pieces and waiting till the true burning season to use the good stuff. Last night, I started the fire at 6 p.m. and threw the last pieces on around 11. I still had red coals at 7 this morning. The best part was that our upstairs temperature was 75 and my wife commented that it was too hot I think this thing will kick some butt come winter.

 

[Patapsco Mike]

Burned my new-to-me Avalon for the first time last night. It started like a champ, and in no time I had a roaring blaze with just a bit of kindling, 1/4 supercedar, and a few nice pieces of red oak.

The blower is exceptionally quiet if you set it fairly low. I can hear the presidential debate with the TV very low right now despite having the fan between me and the TV. The secondary burn was fun to watch, and after just two burns I feel like I understand this stove. A very, very simple operation compared to my VC Dutchwest and the months of fiddling with the catalytic air control/ main air intake control ratios for various kinds of wood and amounts of packing.

My glass got pretty foggy too. No big deal, but a bit disappointing after just one small fire. I've had this issue with every stove I've had when burning small fires.

While I love the huge firebox, I do miss the side loading. I'm on only my second fire and already I've burned my forearm. It's also going to be a bit more tricky getting a full load in.

Overall I am really pleased so far.

 

[Jfk4th]

Yep, it is a little tougher to fill her right up with wood, the tubes are a little frustrating and the little platform where the air comes in makes loading tougher too. I do like the fact you can put really long splits in, at least east/west burns. Burned again last night, this time with one long split and one medium sized round. Temps were lower in the morning about 250F but still good enough coals for a start with with smaller splits. I am pretty confident that when I want to stuff her she will burn all night with plenty of heat. With Only 2 splits or 1 split and one round and still getting coals in the morning is very impressive to me

 

[Henz]

I absolutly love my Olympic. this will be my third winter with it. I had a fire last night and am not burning super dry stuff like i typically do so I am noticing really black glass, but I got her going again this morning and it burned 90% of it off. It has a great burntime and I love the capacity of it..In my opinion, there isnt a better stove out there..

So, what brand of doorway fan do you have JFK?? and it sounds like your blowign the warm air to the cold rooms instead of vice-versa like everyone says you should?

 

[Jfk4th]

I have the super-quite fan, cheapest at this site
(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SA-4001) 30.80 cents

I have one in the upper corner of the door and my second small one just sits on the ground. This combo works well for both pushing hot out and pushing cold in. I have not tried just the small one on the ground to see if that works better but I guess I could try. I need the warm air to go a pretty good distance before it hit the stairs. I'll try it tonight and see how it goes

 

[gpcollen1]

I love my Olympic. Stop worrying about the air inlet or the air tubes getting in the way of a load. I do a scoop or two of ash in the morning, pull coals in front of the inlet and add a few splits to get her ripping. Then load her up with wood - you do have to reach into that firebox so the long fire gloves are pretty good for this. I just stack it tight and get it lit off - and there is coals 12 hours later. No need to smash tubes or stack it on the inlet to fill it.

As for the fan, I bought my 75cfm doorway fan at the stove store. Overpaid probably but that thing is awesome. I do blow the warm air up the stairs but I am really just boosting the natural circulation as the cold air naturally flows down along the stairs and the warm air flows along the ceiling and up the stairs.

 

[Jfk4th]

Thanks CT,
So putting a split right in front of the air inlet does not affect the burn? It seems to make a difference on mine, I'll try it your way again. My father in law has an older one and there is no shelf for the air inlet, allowing more wood to be put in. I guess I am comparing this to my other stove, PE Summit that does not have air tubes and you can fit a little more wood in it than the Olympic.

When it comes to ash I have not had to take any out, it burns so well, very nice

I also need to get used to east/west burning stove. My PE and and Quad 5100 are (were) north/south. Advantages and disadvantages to both I guess

Still, this Olympic was what a wanted for ten years and is worth every penny...even at today's prices

I say bring on winter

 

[gpcollen1]

Oh, I put them right in front when I load her up to the gills as long as there are decent coals but i do not try and pack it so close to the front that it is resting on the inlet. It helps if you cut a little channel in the coals from there toward the back as it lets the air rip through and gets it burning.

I do a few pieces N/S with E/W on top of those when getting the fire up and going. It really catches faster and gets the stove to temp nicely this way.

Just keep on experimenting and tuning...

 

[LSaupe]

Do any of you guys have the outside air kit on your Olympic? If so, is it the 3" flex pipe or through the floor joists/ducts?

Just now getting this ready for the season (first year with it). Any advice on performanec monitoring (I.e. stack temps to run at or at least initial fire-up before pulling it back)?

Thanks and Regards,

Larry S.

 

[Pepp31]

I have had my Olympic for the past three years and have been very happy with it!

 

[Funk Brother]

I'm about to head into my 5th winter with an Avalon Olmpic. I really don't know how to rank it against other EPA stoves since I haven't used any, but I'm basically happy with it. It's our primary heat source, and I've put some thought and effort into getting the most possible heat from it. I started with a traditional insert setup and swiched to a modified "hearth stove" setup; for more details look near the end of this thread - https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/13710/ Here is what works for me:

Burning Techniques: if I could give just one piece of advice for running an Olympic from a *cold* start, it would be to get that puppy good and hot with kindling and small splits before laying on the big stuff. The first job is to heat up the stove itself, and it's a huge hunk of metal. As it happens, I have access to plenty of pallets through work, and think nothing of using a bunch of pallet pieces and small splits to get the stovetop temp up to like 500 degrees or so before adding any normal splits. I start it out wide open (full intake air, bypass open, top flue damper [my own addition] open), let it go for a few minutes that way, then close the bypass. It's tempting to reduce the intake air because the wood is burning so fast, but I believe that in the long run it's best to just sacrifice this startup wood and accept the loss as the cost of doing business. When the firebox is hot and some coals are established, I open up the bypass, add medium and/or large splits which usually take off to an active burn with little or no smoldering. Once the big pieces are flaming, I close the bypass, and when they are well charred its time to reduce the intake air (and in my case to partially close the flue damper). This is when the secondary burning takes place, and I haven't gotten tired of watching that yet. OK, that was from a cold start. If the stove is already hot and there are plenty of coals, I agree with CTwoodburner that a N-S channel through the coals in front of the air inlet helps the next load take off. Since I'm a wood scrounger and have an odd mix of lengths, I like that the Olympic will take long pieces in the E-W orientation. Fireplace or welder's gloves help a lot when placing those. But in the last couple of years, I've started making overnight loads of short (<16 inch) splits or rounds facing N-S whenever I have enough of them. Easier to get a full load in and I think the cumbustion air flow is somewhat better as well.

Clean glass: I like having a clean window to watch the fire, but it's a challenge when you're burning 24/7. I try to minimize the number of times I have to get out the Windex by burning flamey not smoldery fires. But when you turn the intake air really low for overnight burns, there is often some fogging in the morning. Usually it burns off when you get the stove burning hot again. If for some reason (like guests are coming) I want to get the glass super clean but it is still too hot, I use the (overpriced) screen which I bought as an option with the stove. I can lift the door off it's pins and set it in the garage until the glass cools, temporarily replacing the door with the screen so I don't have to worry about sparks. (I've also used the screen a few times when it's not real cold out, and we just want to have a fire for atmosphere). Oh yeah, one more thing, letting splits lean against the glass pretty much guarantees a black smudge which is much harder to get off than the normal dark fog. To be avoided. All in all, I like Olympic's door gasket and "knife edge" system; I think it's one of the strengths of the design. I've never had a problem with black glass due to an air leak.

JFK - when you get a few more burns under your belt, I'd be interested to hear how you think the Olympic compares with the Summit. When I was stove shopping, those were my two top choices; went with the Olympic because the dealer was considerably closer. Never even saw a Summit in person. But I like that the Summit has some degree of automatic air intake regulation. Does it work well for you?

 

[LSaupe]

Any of you guys have advice on temps? What to look for (temperature wise) during the high and low fire modes and where to place the thermometer. Also do you use the magnetic type of full insertion?

 

[Funk Brother]

LSaupe - I use a magnetic thermometer on the front flat shelf (cooktop) part of the stove, just left of center near the air vent where it steps up. Nothing sacred about that, but I keep a steamer on the right side. As for temps, I think the manual is a decent guide: Avalon calls low 300 degrees, medium 500 to 600, and high 700 to 800. On a normal burn in cold weather I shoot for 800 or so as the high temp, then let it "coast" for a few hours down to 300 or so, then do it all over. I also often run the blower high when the stove temp is peaking (usually just after I back off the intake air); and then reduce the fan speed when the temp gets back down to 700 or so. Hope this helps.

 

[gpcollen1]

I agree on the temp range above - let that bad boy cook before closing air down a bit. Every thermometer is a bit different but you can watch the temps climb when that thing starts to really cook. As soon as i am sure that the load is lit off well and the temps climb, I begin to throttle the air down a bit. Just keep an eye out because that is one big load of wood in there.

 

[Jfk4th]

Funk Brother,
Here is my early comparison from an old post of mine: Some things may help you,

I sent this to a guy that wanted to pick from these two a while ago



OK now maybe I am the perfect guy to help you out or maybe not the perfect guy :cheese: . I have both of these stoves in freestanding not insert, but my father in law has the insert from Avalon and absolutely loves it. This is really the reason why I finally broke down and bought the Avalon Olympic, while still hanging on to the Summit.

Here is my comparison, and again I love both of these stoves so I am not bashing any of them.

Avalon is a little “harder” to load up fully with splits since it is really meant for East/West loads. Yes you can load N/S and many, including myself sometimes do, but you do not have the ability to load long splits in it. About 16 inch North/South burns and that is pretty damn close to the glass when you close it. But if you cut all your wood 15 or 16 inches you are going to have a hell of a lot of wood in it, pretty sweet. Avalon burns very hot, now maybe this is just my setup but it burns hotter than my Summit does. I can only compare this to my stove and my brother in laws stove, also a Summit. So I am comparing two Avalons against two Summits, please only take this as my opinion. The Avalon has a top bypass damper to stop puffbacks when you open the stove and it heats the stove up a little quicker if you keep it open when starting. The best benefit in my book is the ease of cleaning it. Just open the damper and Viola, the powdery black stuff falls into the stove when you clean the chimney. This is even easier than the Summit but the Summit is just as simple, take out the pin and take out the baffle and you are done, so also Viola. The Summit really does not need a bypass damper, with good wood you won’t see any puffbacks. Glass stays a little cleaner on the Summit than on the Avalon and I am pushing it here.... I am talking about a slight gray on the corners of the Avalon against a small black spot on the Summit. Don’t put too much stock in this as this is obviously the way I burn the stoves.

The Summit is so easy to burn even a Caveman can do it (Where the hell is that man, I am sure he will chime in soon). The EBT, Extended Burn Tech, is very sweet. I work eight hours shifts and it is nice to char the wood, get her hot, and then shut her down all the way and the let the EBT do the rest while I am gone. You will get hot coals easily after 8 hours. The Avalon is a little different to do, still no problem getting that overnight or overwork burns. On the Avalon I have noticed that on mine and my father in laws you have to shut the stove down in stages. Still the same result as the Summit, but again for guys like me that can’t wait, I choose the EBT. One more thing, I can guarantee you won’t have any pieces of wood left over in the Summit, I have seen (now again this is really pushing it) some small pieces, microscopic even :cheese: , in the Avalon when I left her completely out. Again this may be pushing it…

Price: With gold door, ash pan, blower, and pedestal the Summit is a hell of a lot cheaper than the Avalon. If you have the cash, well you decided

Door opens from the left on the Avalon, on the right on the Summit, big deal? probably not.

Blowers are about the same, the Summit you can keep it on all the time along with Rheostat, but the Avalon only has rheostat. I am going to tinker with mine and put a switch on it so I can do both. My Avalon comes on at about 450 which is a little late in my book, therefore I put a switch...... Both very nice blowers overall.

Glass, viewing area bout the same on both

While I understand the BTU rating is higher on the Summit than on the Avalon I would not put too much emphasis on this. Both are beasts that will burn as hot as you need. Like I have said I think the Avalon burns a little hotter than the Summit, but the Summit will(might) get you a longer burn. I have heard some members in my “PE Summit Crew” get 13 -15 hours with coals, WOW. I am not that “good” with the stove, yet, and so my burns are shorter. I know some Avalon guys get really long burns too like Adirondack and CT wood burner.

Can’t figure out what one I prefer? I prefer having both stoves and it is that simple. It is like having pizza and Buffalo wings, both are great!

Quite the problem to have in choosing between the two, right? Not at all, you are in a good situation and simply cannot lose

Remember these are only my views of these stoves (some may agree, some may not) and I am not an expect at all, just a guy that waits for cold days and nights even in the summer to start a fire in the stove. Yes I know I have a problem, many of us do :cheese: Thank goodness I am married and have one son to pass on all of my “obsessions” too

 

[LSaupe]

Thanks for the feedback on the temps to run at. My manual does not say anything about temperatures. This is Report# 028-S-27-2 (June, 1999).

Should I have received something else (document wise) with my stove?

Also, any of you running an outside air kit?

Larry S.

 

[LSaupe]

Looking through my documents that came with the stove and I see some conflicting information. The Sales Brochure lists the Olympic as a 74,300 Btu/hr heat output with 70% efficiency (DEQ) and 2.6 grams/hr of emmisions. The EPA tag that came on the stove indicates 63% efficiency and 12,000 to 45,100 Btu/hr heat output. Both indicate Model: Olympic (Avalon 1190)??? Any idea's why the large discrepancy?

Larry S.

 

[Jfk4th]

Thanks for the feedback on the temps to run at. My manual does not say anything about temperatures. This is Report# 028-S-27-2 (June, 1999).

Should I have received something else (document wise) with my stove?

Also, any of you running an outside air kit?

Larry S.

No air kit for me

 

[LSaupe]

JFK,

Any troubles keeping the gold door polished? I almost went for it, but bailed at the last minute. Might add it on at some point though.

 

[Funk Brother]

Not a lot of time to write tonight, but . . .

JFK - thanks very much for the comparisons. Just about a dead heat, eh? I like having a bypass and a door that's never leaked, but the Summit's EBT still intrigues me. Anyway, I hope not to be in the market for another stove anytime soon - I'm planning on living with my Olympic decision for a few more years. FWIW, when a friend recently asked me about getting a new stove, I mentioned the Englander - I mean it sounds pretty darn good and would cost like a thousand bucks less. Hmmmm.

CT - I agree with your warning about keeping your eye on that big load of wood. I admit, I've fallen asleep a couple of times after loading up and before I cut back on the air, and have woken up groggily to a *very* hot stove - let's see, intake air off - blower on to high - frantic dash to the garage to get a box fan to blow on the stove to help cool it off - I'm sweating - eventual sigh of relief - and a very warm house.

LSaupe - I went to the Avalon web site and found that the current Olympic manual is different than the one I have. Inexplicably, the "report #" is the same. Anyway, I've attempted to PM you a jpeg of the page in my old manual which lists temperatures. On the outside air front, I've read many, many posts about it and all I can contribute is that it seems to be a topic where sincere and well-meaning people have huge disagreements. Al in all, it sounds like a great idea to me. I'd like to try it with my stove, but as it is several feet below ground level, that would take some serious digging and concrete bashing. Maybe someday. Finally, as for the discrepancies with published BTU and efficiency figures, frankly, I wouldn't worry about them. From the reading I've done, it seems that the EPA tests are poorly designed, there are no good industry wide standards and the numbers are next to meaningless. Which leads me to wonder out loud, what would it take to establish an independent lab which would test competing woodstoves and make valid comparisons between them? We could learn a lot.

 

[Jfk4th]

Englander, awesome stove. I bought that for my Dad's cabin for a steal of only 499.00, and of course I am talking about the 2200 sq ft big 3 cu ft firebox one. This stove burns even hotter than the Olympic.

Now you can see why it is only 1,100 dollars regular price as compared to the 2,500 dollar Olympic, but for the money there is nothing better in my book. That stove heats my Dad's cabin in about 1 hour flat, from about 40 degrees to 70F. Nice north/south loading too. Keep your eye out on the big boy stores come late Jan or Early Feb for deals if there any left. Plus the customer service is top notch, good accessories also.

I have woken up to that 850F super hot stove too, sweating as I shut her down all the way. Man that Olympic can heat up fast with good wood, only 2 big splits too

 

[LSaupe]

How are you guys making out with keeping your glass clean. Mine gets a HEAVY black hard coating after each firing. Takes about an hour of hard scraping with woodstove glass cleaner. Tried both the Fireview and Claer Flame glass cleaners.

Deposits are so heavy after one fire that you cant see in at all.

Tried kiln dried firewood as well and still no luck. Hottest temp I can get out of the stack os 300F, which I imagine is much of the problem.

Any of you have deposits this bad on the glass?

Larry S.

 

[Jfk4th]

300F is really low, how much pipe do you have from stove top to cap. The minimum is 15 feet high from bottom of stove to chimney cap. Put the thermometer on the stove top and let me know what you have for a temp. If you are using good wood and have a good draft (I have 19 feet from bottom of stove to cap....many have more than that...) you will no problem getting that beauty up to 600-700F and letting her cruise around 400-450F for long burns. Also is your pipe clean? Last time you checked it? Animal in the pipe....it happens....

Give me some feedback and I am sure I (and others) can help

I only get black, a little on the edges, when I am going for a 10 hour burn, most of the time you will get a little gray haze

 

[Funk Brother]

Larry - wow, that sounds rough. Something is wrong with this picture. I've never had to use anything stronger than Windex on my Olympic. If I remember correctly from another post, you're using outside air, right? I'm wondering if maybe there is a problem with that and the stove might be starved for air. Can you get the kindling to really flame up with the door open a 1/2" or so? If it does, and then dies down dramatically when you shut the door, to me that would point in the direction of an air supply problem, which I'm thinking might mess up the air wash over the door as well. Maybe you could take the plate off the normal (inside air) intake and try running it that way for a while, just as a way of troubleshooting the problem. Or throw the whole question at your dealer; this is not the way the stove should work. More like a bad dream which I hope you are able to wake up from very soon.