Baby bear

[cj133]

Hi all

I just dug out my grandfather's baby bear and am going to clean it up.

My dad thinks it was bought in 1978 but he's not positive.

I'm curious if the rumors that some insurance companies won't insure a house with one installed is true or bologna?

 

[cj133]

 

[cj133]

Judging by the lack of "heat shields", and it having the single latch door and the fire brick layout im guessing this is a series V?

 

[coaly]

Could be a ‘78.

There was no V. They were all I (or II with bolt on shields) up to 1980.

When these flat top doors were discontinued, the double door stoves became III. The later glass doors with larger glass became IV. The single door UL Listed stoves became VI.

States that have adopted the International Family of Codes require all appliances to be UL Listed when installing. Many install and claim they were existing.

Many insurance companies require all appliances to be UL Listed as well. This is their own regulations they can make.

 

[cj133]

Could be a ‘78.

There was no V. They were all I (or II with bolt on shields) up to 1980.

When these flat top doors were discontinued, the double door stoves became III. The later glass doors with larger glass became IV. The single door UL Listed stoves became VI.

States that have adopted the International Family of Codes require all appliances to be UL Listed when installing. Many install and claim they were existing.

Many insurance companies require all appliances to be UL Listed as well. This is their own regulations they can make.

So this would be a I with a later flat top door with the trees etc?

There's no bolt on shields or anything.

 

[bholler]

So this would be a I with a later flat top door with the trees etc?

There's no bolt on shields or anything.

All that matters when it comes to code or insurance is the ul tag. If it's not there it can be problematic

 

[cj133]

All that matters when it comes to code or insurance is the ul tag. If it's not there it can be problematic

My question about age and series is just for my own curiosity.

 

[bholler]

My question about age and series is just for my own curiosity.

Oh ok I will let coaly answer in that case

 

[cj133]

Oh ok I will let coaly answer in that case

I do appreciate you taking the time to respond.

My plans aren't to use the stove but if the situation ever came up that I wanted to it's best to know what the rules are which is why I asked about it.

As of now the plan is clean it up and keep it for memories.

 

[coaly]

So this would be a I with a later flat top door with the trees etc?

There's no bolt on shields or anything.

Yes. The doors with no trees were only the very early stove's marked Fisher-Stove Springfield Oregon on the door. The door you have was made up to 1980. All became the Cathedral or arched top for that year.

Yours is dated by the latest 5 fin draft cap and the bent handle facing forward. The legs are not tapered showing it is probably a NY or NJ stove. It may have a stamped stove number on the back at top corner with state as well.

Not all stoves made after 1980 had shields and the UL Label. UL Listed stoves were not necessary in non-combustible areas such as hearths and cement basements. So stoves were made like yours in the unlisted version selling for $100 cheaper. They would have angle iron corners like yours with a Cathedral door.

 

[cj133]

Yes. The doors with no trees were only the very early stove's marked Fisher-Stove Springfield Oregon on the door. The door you have was made up to 1980. All became the Cathedral or arched top for that year.

Yours is dated by the latest 5 fin draft cap and the bent handle facing forward. The legs are not tapered showing it is probably a NY or NJ stove. It may have a stamped stove number on the back at top corner with state as well.

Not all stoves made after 1980 had shields and the UL Label. UL Listed stoves were not necessary in non-combustible areas such as hearths and cement basements. So stoves were made like yours in the unlisted version selling for $100 cheaper. They would have angle iron corners like yours with a Cathedral door.

I think this has tapered legs

I wasn't able to find any numbers but this was likely bought in NJ.

The wood blocks are to transport it.

 

[coaly]

Ok, that didn’t show up in the first pics.

Look on the bottom for a PA and number in weld. Different fabricators had their own way of making things, some tapered to drawing specs that called for a 4 inch taper down to 1 inch at bottom. PA did that, I’d have to look at pics of the stoves I’ve sold from NJ to see how they treated theirs. Others clipped the bottom corners on a 45* and others had none.

Most NY and NJ stoves were numbered at one of the top corners. Seen them stamped front or rear, always at the very top just under overhang. Normally a NJ####. This was a stove number for warranty purposes, not serial. Serial numbers were not used until UL Labels started. Markings inside door are foundry marks, not stove except for a B for Baby.

If this was a ‘79 it would probably have long angle iron lengths inside for bricks instead of the separate clips. A ‘77 would not have bent handle rods facing forward.

Can’t tell by the inside pic, but it looks like the vent pipe may be welded inside. If so, this is a box made by Hesston in Hesston Kansas. It would be finished by local fabricator. Those built locally had pipes welded outside. If this is a Hesston stove, they normally stamped the ash fender (shelf) front and center with a capital H.

 

[Jecika567]

Hi all

I just dug out my grandfather's baby bear and am going to clean it up.

My dad thinks it was bought in 1978 but he's not positive.

I'm curious if the rumors that some insurance companies won't insure a house with one installed is true or bologna?

View attachment 302625

I’m pretty new to wood burning stoves so take my comment with a grain of salt, but in my case, my homeowners insurance told me they wouldn’t take me if the wood stove was my “primary” heat source or the only heat source. I also have central heat and for insurance purposes that is what’s listed as my “primary”. Interested to hear if others have a different experience.

 

[coaly]

I’m pretty new to wood burning stoves so take my comment with a grain of salt, but in my case, my homeowners insurance told me they wouldn’t take me if the wood stove was my “primary” heat source or the only heat source. I also have central heat and for insurance purposes that is what’s listed as my “primary”. Interested to hear if others have a different experience.

Insurance companies can make their own rules and regulations. They probably feel by not using the stove as a primary heat source it is less likely to burn the house down. In reality, people not as familiar with burning all the time can be a greater danger than an experienced person burning 24/7. It’s all about maintenance and operator knowledge.

The addition to codes preventing non-UL installation was to prevent homemade, unsafe stoves from being connected. However, that eliminates antiques and those stoves built prior to the UL testing becoming the accepted standard nationwide. Many stoves like older Fishers were tested by labs across the country to their areas testing criteria that was not accepted by other states.

There is an entire section in the NFPA 211 Standard for unlisted stoves and reducing clearances safely, but the International Code Council took it one step farther adding ALL appliances must be UL Listed for a new installation. Codes adopt the NFPA Standard. Codes can add to it, but take anything away. Then states adopt codes. The adopted codes are building codes, only for new installs. Any safe appliance installed to the NFPA Standard is installed safely. Some insurance companies then added they want ALL appliances to be Listed, even those existing.

 

[cj133]

Insurance companies can make their own rules and regulations. They probably feel by not using the stove as a primary heat source it is less likely to burn the house down. In reality, people not as familiar with burning all the time can be a greater danger than an experienced person burning 24/7. It’s all about maintenance and operator knowledge.

The addition to codes preventing non-UL installation was to prevent homemade, unsafe stoves from being connected. However, that eliminates antiques and those stoves built prior to the UL testing becoming the accepted standard nationwide. Many stoves like older Fishers were tested by labs across the country to their areas testing criteria that was not accepted by other states.

There is an entire section in the NFPA 211 Standard for unlisted stoves and reducing clearances safely, but the International Code Council took it one step farther adding ALL appliances must be UL Listed for a new installation. Codes adopt the NFPA Standard. Codes can add to it, but take anything away. Then states adopt codes. The adopted codes are building codes, only for new installs. Any safe appliance installed to the NFPA Standard is installed safely. Some insurance companies then added they want ALL appliances to be Listed, even those existing.

Are Fisher stoves more prone to puffback than other stoves, or basically the same?

 

[bholler]

Are Fisher stoves more prone to puffback than other stoves, or basically the same?

Definitely not more prone than most

 

[cj133]

@coaly

No marks on the ash fender that I can find anywhere. In fact I do not see any marks anywhere on the stove other than the door. On the inside it looks like a B with RC under it. I'm guessing that's irrelevant as Fisher made the doors and we know it's a baby.

Flue connector is definitely welded on the inside.