Fisher Baby Bear should I install a flue damper

[bholler]

I apologize, entirely my fault as I'm not up to speed on all the terminology.
10 1/2' from stove collar to flue gas exit at cap. 23" from flue collar to flue gas exit. I didn't know why the flue collar measurement mattered ( that's where my mind went when I read collar) but there's a lot I don't know. Sorry

If it's only 10.5' no you dont need a damper. Get a probe thermometer and control the temp with the draft knob on the door

 

[Deancamp]

Thanks, to everyone. Very helpful information.

 

[Deancamp]

I smoke/flame tested the door today. The bottom and hinge side pull the flame from a lighter pretty strong. I noticed on the stove door frame creosote starting to form in those areas. I can also hear the air being pulled through the door with the air control knob completely closed.. I read the Fisher stoves are made to not use a seal, what is the recommended remedy?

 

[coaly]

I smoke/flame tested the door today. The bottom and hinge side pull the flame from a lighter pretty strong. I noticed on the stove door frame creosote starting to form in those areas. I can also hear the air being pulled through the door with the air control knob completely closed.. I read the Fisher stoves are made to not use a seal, what is the recommended remedy?

Wire wheel back of door at sealing areas. Wire wheel channel iron door seal. The raised portion makes contact in center of channel iron, and channel iron edges make contact on back of door. This makes 3 point contact all around.

Make sure hinge pins are not worn.

Make sure leak is not between channel iron and front plate.

If it still leaks, flat gasket for glass installation can be cemented in center of the channel iron door seal. You can test clearance for gasket material by placing cardboard in the sealing channel iron to make sure hinge and latch works with the added thickness.

 

[Deancamp]

Thanks, I will check those items. I did wire wheel the door and channel iron when I refurbished and removed a rope seal, so I know those are clean. Last night when reloading with wood, I let it catch good before closing the air intake completely. With air intake closed It sounded like a wind tunnel as it pulled air in and stove temp was running away. I had to open the door to slow the burn and cool the stove down.

 

[coaly]

Thanks, I will check those items. I did wire wheel the door and channel iron when I refurbished and removed a rope seal, so I know those are clean. Last night when reloading with wood, I let it catch good before closing the air intake completely. With air intake closed It sounded like a wind tunnel as it pulled air in and stove temp was running away. I had to open the door to slow the burn and cool the stove down.

You’re going to need a gasket for sure. Closing air damper fully should result in going out, or burning with little to no flame.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

and removed a rope seal

There you go. The gasket was there to help seal the door.

 

[Deancamp]

No wear on the hinge pins. Small gap between channel iron and front plate enough to slide a thin putty knife through, but wouldn't think that amount could cause an issue. Looks like I will be installing a gasket.

Agreed that the rope gasket was installed to seal the door. When starting my rehab I kept reading that no gasket was needed so I thought it was unnecessary. That was long enough ago I I dont remember how well the door shut with that thick gasket.

The stove burning hot with the air control completely closed off is what made me think I might need a flue damper. Lesson learned I didn't check first things first.