Baffle fell off with fire in stove - somewhat scary situation, under control now!

[KennyK]

I just went to refill my little Jotul F100. The stove was down to hot coals and the magnetic thermometer on the top rear read 300 degrees. I put in a couple small splits and went to grab a couple more a few feet away from the stove when I heard a clang. I looked back and the baffle, which on the F100 just kind of wedges into place, had fallen off one side, and was at an angle with the right side lying on the splits above the coals, which were now starting to catch fire. With my elbow length welding gloves on, I tried to lift the baffle and put it back into place. I was having some trouble and was nervous as those gloves can only take so much. I thought it might be a lost cause, so I shut the door and turned the damper all the way down. I was about to post here to ask what to do with the hot stove and the baffle halfway on the burning splits, but decided to give it one more try. I got the baffle back into place, and am feeling relieved but still wondering what the best thing to do in a situation like this might be. I must have knocked the baffle at some point with a split and it was probably ready to fall for some time. I'll take more care in general and check it from time to time when the stove isn't hot. If I hadn't been able to get the baffle into place, what would have been the best move? Is shutting the door and turning the damper all the way down, as I had thought to do, the way to go? Could this cause a major problem?

 

[HomeinPA]

I just went to refill my little Jotul F100. The stove was down to hot coals and the magnetic thermometer on the top rear read 300 degrees. I put in a couple small splits and went to grab a couple more a few feet away from the stove when I heard a clang. I looked back and the baffle, which on the F100 just kind of wedges into place, had fallen off one side, and was at an angle with the right side lying on the splits above the coals, which were now starting to catch fire. With my elbow length welding gloves on, I tried to lift the baffle and put it back into place. I was having some trouble and was nervous as those gloves can only take so much. I thought it might be a lost cause, so I shut the door and turned the damper all the way down. I was about to post here to ask what to do with the hot stove and the baffle halfway on the burning splits, but decided to give it one more try. I got the baffle back into place, and am feeling relieved but still wondering what the best thing to do in a situation like this might be. I must have knocked the baffle at some point with a split and it was probably ready to fall for some time. I'll take more care in general and check it from time to time when the stove isn't hot. If I hadn't been able to get the baffle into place, what would have been the best move? Is shutting the door and turning the damper all the way down, as I had thought to do, the way to go? Could this cause a major problem?

Yeah, close the door, cut the air and let it go out so you can reach in and get it back in place. Better yet, just don't do it again!

 

[KennyK]

Yeah, close the door, cut the air and let it go out so you can reach in and get it back in place. Better yet, just don't do it again!

Thanks! Yes, I will try to avoid in the future! On a related note to what you wrote, when I cut the damper down all the way, it doesn't put my fire out - should it? This fire will get low, and the stove will cool down to 300 or even below, but it generally keeps burning until at least some coal chunks. Is that normal or a sign of leaks in the stove/gaskets?

 

[HomeinPA]

Thanks! Yes, I will try to avoid in the future! On a related note to what you wrote, when I cut the damper down all the way, it doesn't put my fire out - should it? This fire will get low, and the stove will cool down to 300 or even below, but it generally keeps burning until at least some coal chunks. Is that normal or a sign of leaks in the stove/gaskets?

It does sound like you may be drawing air from somewhere. You should be able to choke the fire down by closing the air off completely but if the fire has been fully engaged and cooking along for some time it would take a while to completely knock it down. Try it next time when starting the fire. Get it going for 10 or 15 minutes wide open and then pull it closed. You should be able to watch it slowly die out. If it still doesn't die out check your door gaskets first and then make sure the air control is completely closing. Last thing might be to turn off all the lights with the stove going and make sure you don't see cracks in the body.

 

[venator260]

Once they've got a good draft going, newer tube stoves won't choke all the way out. With temperatures in the teens, both of my stoves cruise right along with the air control all the way shut. If it's a freestander, you can locate the air inlets and plug them with foil. For my fp25, I suppose I could go outside with some duct tape and cover the oak.

 

[jetsam]

In a pinch apparently opening the door all the way is also effective. You of course get a raging fire, but the firebox temp supposedly doesn't get up into overfire territory due to the huge volume of air whooshing through the stove.