I've heard alot of people say that their radiant floor can use water from storage down to 120 deg. I think. was wondering if the same holds true for baseboard radiators? thanks in advance.
baseboard usable temps
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fabguy01 said:
One of the big advantages of radiant floor, especially with wood or solar with storage, is that it can make effective use of water down to temperatures much lower than baseboards or most other technologies.
I've heard of people getting some heat out of baseboards down to 120, but others who have found 140 to be the lowest feasible, and a lot will depend on whether you're talking about moderate cold weather or peak heating demand times.
If someone is installing or re-installing, and somehow needs to go with baseboards rather than panel radiant, I recently ran across literature on this, which looks like an interesting 're-take' on familiar baseboards, and apparently will deliver useful heat to a lower water temp than regular baseboards.
(broken link removed to http://www.smithsenvironmental.com/html/he.html)
Baseboards can be perfectly useful at lower supply water temperatures. You just need to install a whole lot more of the things.
You can see in this chart:
(broken link removed to http://www.slantfin.com/documents/326.pdf)
At 120F supply water you will need to put in about 3 times the linear footage of baseboard to get the same heat as you would with 180F water. If you inquire at scrap yards or at the site of some major remodel jobs you can get the stuff for scrap prices sometimes. I used to see it at the town dump.
That much baseboard might not be a big hit with interior decorators but it can be used to good efficiency if you do your arithmetic.
Especially in a shop or basement where Martha Stewart would never go.
You can see in this chart:
(broken link removed to http://www.slantfin.com/documents/326.pdf)
At 120F supply water you will need to put in about 3 times the linear footage of baseboard to get the same heat as you would with 180F water. If you inquire at scrap yards or at the site of some major remodel jobs you can get the stuff for scrap prices sometimes. I used to see it at the town dump.
That much baseboard might not be a big hit with interior decorators but it can be used to good efficiency if you do your arithmetic.
Especially in a shop or basement where Martha Stewart would never go.
True, the lower the temp, the more baseboard you will need. I have found that I have never had a problem with my baseboard keeping the house warm. When they design heating systems, I find that they over estimate on the amount of baseboard need along with the boiler size. If it is really cold out I will have a fire going most of the time and will have 180-190 degrees. When it's not so cold, I start a fire at night and fill the storage tank. When I get up in the morning the tank is usually ~175 and if it is not I'll through a few more pieces in to get it up to temp since there are usually a few embers left from the night burn. Just my 2 cents worth...
thanks for the info. The baseboard system is existing with a LP boiler, I am installing a wood boiler w/ 1000 gal of storage into customers house. havent had much experience with base board heating so thought I would ask
in other words, depends in huge and uncomfortably significant amounts based on the assumptions/ sense of quality/ corners cut by the original installer of the baseboard, and the extent to which the homeowner at the time of the install was shopping for long-haul value vs. short-run lowest price....
Ghettontheball said:
they're both a complex mix of both, though each more of one than the other; perhaps Pook just hasn't had enough (or maybe too many) of the Keystones to yet muddle around with the variables
""""""baseboard [convective performance can be enhanced by simply having a taller baseboard unit which enhances the chimney effect of the baseboard as it convects= pulls more cold air from under.& higher temp enhances the baseboard chimni effect. """"
The statement above suggests that I may be able to pull more btu's out of my existing BB by simply 'replacing' my BB tin work only??? Is that what that means? Is there such a thing out there? 'Cause that would be cool....pun intended......
Sorry for the hijack.
np
The statement above suggests that I may be able to pull more btu's out of my existing BB by simply 'replacing' my BB tin work only??? Is that what that means? Is there such a thing out there? 'Cause that would be cool....pun intended......
Sorry for the hijack.
np
Can't remember the terms, high hat BB? maybe, all I know it as High output BB. kooooooooooooooooooooooop will tell ouy
Ghettontheball said:
Fin cleaning is a good thing Jim K was telling me. I've lived here for 6 years and hadn't cleaned the darn things till this last late winter-spring timeframe! I just never thought about it. Hope it heats faster/easier this year. Looking for the next 'big improvement' I can make in efficiency.
Ghettontheball said:
Not sure....but maybe this is what you're looking for....hope it helps.
http://www.greendroplet.com/product_info.php?products_id=186
np
fabguy01 said:
My storage temp is set for 115, I can still make hot water and get a little out of the baseboards. My toekick heaters fan will come on at around 125-130 when my storage is that low. I only have 500 gal. of storage and when temps get that low it's late afternoon or early eve. and I'm back from work and starting a fire for the next cycle. And only on the coldest day of the winter. (I wish I had 1000 but 500 works for me)
Kipstr said:
I have 500 gallons also and I 'think' that I've got it set up correctly for this winter's heating duties. If it's really cold my house will use all of the heat the Econoburn 150 will produce, but the storage will help me a lot in the shoulder months.
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