Best way to reduce clearances for my Woodstove application

[Kirch]

last year we installed a woodstove in our hunting camp. This year we decided to install a rustic barn beam above it. (This wasn’t in the plan) and as a result the 6” single wall pipe and 6-8” reducer are only 9” from the mantel and should be 18”. What is the best way to reduce required clearances?

 

[kennyp2339]

1. Switching the single wall pipe out with double wall, at the connection to the class A (as is in the pic) install a 45deg then an angle piece of double to another 45deg piece then into the stove top, but I think you need 12" of clearance from anything on the ceiling, so you may need to create a small shield to protect the beam
Installing a longer length of class A pipe painted flat black to get past the beam and then some.

 

[georgepds]

Raise high the roof beam.. comes to mind

But without the roof part

 

[Rearscreen]

I'd add a piece of metal with a spacer to the beam just above the stove pipe. I'd also do a couple of 45's rather than a 90.

 

[Kirch]

Why change to 45’s?

 

[Rearscreen]

Less flue gas restriction if that's at all a problem for you.

 

[kennyp2339]

What needs to be done first is to determine who makes the outside class A pipe, typically when using double wall black pipe it has to be made by the same manufacturer.
Dura vent double wall lists its clearances as 6" from walls and 8" from ceilings.
(2) 45deg bends are tons better then (1) 90deg bed, every 90deg bend is like loosing 3ft of vertical straight pipe due to the smoke turbulence created, so with this current set up you have (2) 90deg bed, you can get a better draft by loosing the (1) inside 90 and install (2) 45deg bends with a straight section of pipe in between, of course measuring is need to achieve this, also if adjusting the stove on the hearth to make measuring easier or to compensate a couple inches please keep in mind the stove clearances in relation to the back wall and the front hearth.
A wall shield installed and used in conjunction with single wall pipe only reduces the clearances by a 1/3, so instead of 18" from combustibles you can reduce to 12", me personally, I'm not overly thrilled with just a small wall shield attached to a beam.

 

[bholler]

What needs to be done first is to determine who makes the outside class A pipe, typically when using double wall black pipe it has to be made by the same manufacturer.
Dura vent double wall lists its clearances as 6" from walls and 8" from ceilings.
(2) 45deg bends are tons better then (1) 90deg bed, every 90deg bend is like loosing 3ft of vertical straight pipe due to the smoke turbulence created, so with this current set up you have (2) 90deg bed, you can get a better draft by loosing the (1) inside 90 and install (2) 45deg bends with a straight section of pipe in between, of course measuring is need to achieve this, also if adjusting the stove on the hearth to make measuring easier or to compensate a couple inches please keep in mind the stove clearances in relation to the back wall and the front hearth.
A wall shield installed and used in conjunction with single wall pipe only reduces the clearances by a 1/3, so instead of 18" from combustibles you can reduce to 12", me personally, I'm not overly thrilled with just a small wall shield attached to a beam.

You can absolutly use different brand connector pipe from the chimney. And a proper ventilated wall sheild gives you 2/3 reduction so on single wall pipe you would be at the 6" of double wall.

 

[begreen]

Shield the wood or shield the pipe or switch to double-wall stove pipe.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1FY0Q/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[Kirch]

I like that shield Begreen posted a link to. I could use that and put a shield on stand offs under the beam to be double safe. That seems like the easiest way out. However, it states the shield is for vertical application only. Thoughts?

Also, class A thruwall kit is Ameritech with single wall going directly into it. Is that safe? Or should the single wall be 18” away from the wall (covered in old roofing)?

Thanks for all the replies fellas

 

[begreen]

Another approach would be to come off the reducer at the wall with a 45 elbow, then diagonally down to another 45 on a shorter pipe off the stove. That together with shield on spacers under the beam should work.