Can anyone point me to a site that addresses this issue? I've done some Google searches but have been getting a lot of false positives. Have a lot of windows in the house and wife wants to put up curtains but I'm arguing for roman shades or blinds, something more energy efficient......I would assume that I should do windows on the south side differently than the others and there's a balance between designs for summer vs. winter?
Best window treatments for energy efficiency
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- Oct 8, 2008
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We put up 4 panels of these blackout curtains on our large picture window. they are weaved with a thermal barrier and work great. we've noticed a big difference in the cool air around the window.
http://www.walmart.com/search/searc...292443435+500500.4293901682&tab_value=101_All
http://www.walmart.com/search/searc...292443435+500500.4293901682&tab_value=101_All
The best, most efficient window treatment is the one you don't have to purchase in the first place! No windows would the best way to deal with entire issue. OK, so I'm being a wise-ass. But I actually know from whence I speak because I make window treatments as part of my living.
Here's what you need to know (aside from the fact that there is no such thing as a "cheap" window treatment that will add insulation to your windows):
1.) you need to keep an airspace between the glass and the window treatment. That layer of cooler air helps buffer the temperature difference and will help keep humidy issues in acceptable balance. (think mildew)
2.) all window treatments that are going to provide any measure of insulation should be LINED. An insulated, "thermal" or "black out" lining is going to give more bang for the buck than an unlined treatment or one with a basic cotton or cotton/polyester lining.
3.) Interlining is a layer of insulation between the face fabric (what you see when you're looking a the window treatment) and the lining. It will offer increased insulation. Frequently called "bump" in the industry it adds material cost as well as labor cost.
4.) think about what sort of "look" you want for the room and understand that the overall "look" you want will affect how much yardage will be required to do the job. Different "looks" require different amounts of fabric. Simple shades that fall in a flat panel require the least amount of fabric. Full drapery panels require a lot more fabric.
5.) yardage is calculated by the linear yard. Most drapery goods (the fabric) are between 54" and 60" wide, so a yard of goods will be the width of the bolt by 3' down the bolt. Your window treatment will involve one purchase of fabric if you opt for unlined treatments. That one is called the "face fabric" and its the fabric you see when you're sitting on the couch, beer in hand. A lined treatment requires a purchase of lining, as well. If it's interlined, there's that cut of fabric, as well. the biggest expense is always the face fabric, esp. if you choose one with a pattern because more yardage is required to match the pattern and the odds are you'll have to have more than 54-60" (remember this is width of most fabrics) to cut the treatment. Big "repeats" are what really add face fabric yardage to a job.
I'm sure you're now thoroughly confused and discouraged. Don't be. Knowledge is power, baby! But don't be fooled into thinking that because it's cloth it's cheap. It's not. The window treatments I made for our home in '94 were in the ballpark of $2300, but it's now 2010 and they still look great. They were properly constructed and they've been vacuumed and well cared for. Sure, there is some sun damage on the lower hems of the shades and the leading edge of the big drapery panel on the slider, but for close to 16 yrs. old an in service all that time they still have a few years of service left (20 yrs. is not unreasonable for well made window treatments).
Glad you asked, huh?
Here's what you need to know (aside from the fact that there is no such thing as a "cheap" window treatment that will add insulation to your windows):
1.) you need to keep an airspace between the glass and the window treatment. That layer of cooler air helps buffer the temperature difference and will help keep humidy issues in acceptable balance. (think mildew)
2.) all window treatments that are going to provide any measure of insulation should be LINED. An insulated, "thermal" or "black out" lining is going to give more bang for the buck than an unlined treatment or one with a basic cotton or cotton/polyester lining.
3.) Interlining is a layer of insulation between the face fabric (what you see when you're looking a the window treatment) and the lining. It will offer increased insulation. Frequently called "bump" in the industry it adds material cost as well as labor cost.
4.) think about what sort of "look" you want for the room and understand that the overall "look" you want will affect how much yardage will be required to do the job. Different "looks" require different amounts of fabric. Simple shades that fall in a flat panel require the least amount of fabric. Full drapery panels require a lot more fabric.
5.) yardage is calculated by the linear yard. Most drapery goods (the fabric) are between 54" and 60" wide, so a yard of goods will be the width of the bolt by 3' down the bolt. Your window treatment will involve one purchase of fabric if you opt for unlined treatments. That one is called the "face fabric" and its the fabric you see when you're sitting on the couch, beer in hand. A lined treatment requires a purchase of lining, as well. If it's interlined, there's that cut of fabric, as well. the biggest expense is always the face fabric, esp. if you choose one with a pattern because more yardage is required to match the pattern and the odds are you'll have to have more than 54-60" (remember this is width of most fabrics) to cut the treatment. Big "repeats" are what really add face fabric yardage to a job.
I'm sure you're now thoroughly confused and discouraged. Don't be. Knowledge is power, baby! But don't be fooled into thinking that because it's cloth it's cheap. It's not. The window treatments I made for our home in '94 were in the ballpark of $2300, but it's now 2010 and they still look great. They were properly constructed and they've been vacuumed and well cared for. Sure, there is some sun damage on the lower hems of the shades and the leading edge of the big drapery panel on the slider, but for close to 16 yrs. old an in service all that time they still have a few years of service left (20 yrs. is not unreasonable for well made window treatments).
Glad you asked, huh?
Bobbin,
You sure know your stuff. Do you do mail order work? I'll call you when we have a spare $2300.
You sure know your stuff. Do you do mail order work? I'll call you when we have a spare $2300.
I do "know my stuff". I've spent 30-odd yrs. amassing the knowlege I bring to a job and the attention to detail I put into a job shows. And I'm all about sharing knowledge. Informed people make the best choices for their own circumstances. If some of what I offer leads them to my shop, then so much the better. I've had more than a few frustrated, 4 time losers in the world of "ready to hang" come to me over the years.
There is no way I can compete with "ready to hang" stuff. I don't want to; that's not my strong suit. But those "ready to hang" places won't give you the sort of thoughtful answers nor will they ask the really important questions I will. And therein lies the difference. If that was the case the OP wouldn't have posted the question here now, right??
$2300/15yrs.(12)=?
2300./20yrs.(12)=?
I wonder if drapery work qualifies for the energy saving credit, lol?
There is no way I can compete with "ready to hang" stuff. I don't want to; that's not my strong suit. But those "ready to hang" places won't give you the sort of thoughtful answers nor will they ask the really important questions I will. And therein lies the difference. If that was the case the OP wouldn't have posted the question here now, right??
$2300/15yrs.(12)=?
2300./20yrs.(12)=?
I wonder if drapery work qualifies for the energy saving credit, lol?
I have two recommendations: 1) Send Bobbin a PM and see what she has available for your windows. You cannot beat custom built coverings; 2) Contact these people http://symphonyshades.com/ and see what they have available. I wasn't aware of Bobbin when I recently had Sympothy shades custom build coverings for the nineteen windows in my house. They also did an excellent job and the cost was approximately $3,500. My coverings are double cell honeycomb design with side tracks. Some are inside mount and some are outside mount. Very happy with the results, as I am sure you would be with Bobbin's. Good luck. John_M
Bobbin,
I hope you didn't think I was being sarcastic. I know that anything that is well made to my specifications will cost top dollar. I just don't have those dollars now. I know Mrs. Flatbedford would love to have some nice, high quality, custom made window treatments.
I hope you didn't think I was being sarcastic. I know that anything that is well made to my specifications will cost top dollar. I just don't have those dollars now. I know Mrs. Flatbedford would love to have some nice, high quality, custom made window treatments.
I have had very good luck with double cellular shades with side sealing strips. They qualify for the energy rebate and work very effectively. I also has installed a set of very similiar double cellular blinds about two years ago without side seals and they too work well but nowhere near as well as the new set with side seals. With either system, the nice part is that when they are open, they retract into a faily small space. WIndow quilts probably work better, but when they are retracted, they occupy a lot of space.
The wife got some thermal batting ((broken link removed to http://www.warmcompany.com/ibpage.html)) and some printed bed sheets
and made up her own. They came out very nice looking, not much money, and very, very, functional.
and made up her own. They came out very nice looking, not much money, and very, very, functional.
SolarAndWood said:
Heck, I don't know.
You can find it on e-bay, various on-line stores, and the wife got it at a local sewing shop.
If you've got some money to spend, windowquilt.com.
If not, then find a copy of an old Rodale book on solar retrofits (I can't find my well-thumbed copy right now, or I would give you the exact title). It had chapters and chapters on making window treatments.
If not, then find a copy of an old Rodale book on solar retrofits (I can't find my well-thumbed copy right now, or I would give you the exact title). It had chapters and chapters on making window treatments.
Just hung some from bed bath and beyond. not sure of the brand, but they have the blackout linning, and the energy eff. backing. Covered two large windows in the living room that were prev. uncovered, and now the stove will drive you out! using way less wood and getting way warmer in the rest of the house. A 60" wide panel by 80+" long were 20 bucks each, plus a coupon for 20% off total purchase. Really sound and cheap investment.
Steve,
I'm not easily personally offended, and certainly took none from anything you posted. The internet is a very cool thing, but if you're insecure or easily offended it can be a very dangerous place, lol. I have lots of experience with the topic and lots of information to share. I really do believe that knowledge is power, informed people make the best customers, and to that end I'm always happy to share what I know and help people out. Just for the record, I reserve "offense" for cruelty to animals and man's inhumanity to his fellow man.
I'm not easily personally offended, and certainly took none from anything you posted. The internet is a very cool thing, but if you're insecure or easily offended it can be a very dangerous place, lol. I have lots of experience with the topic and lots of information to share. I really do believe that knowledge is power, informed people make the best customers, and to that end I'm always happy to share what I know and help people out. Just for the record, I reserve "offense" for cruelty to animals and man's inhumanity to his fellow man.
Pat10 said:
Thanks for the blog site.
I couldn't leave till I read all entries.
Keep your hangar door closed Spook.
I have had window quilts in my solar home for 22 yrs and they perform flawlessly. The are not cheap but, they are worth it over the long run
Just remembered the name of the book with the insulating window treatment ideas for diyers.
"Solarizing Your Present Home", edited by Joe Carter. You can find it used on Amazon.com
"Solarizing Your Present Home", edited by Joe Carter. You can find it used on Amazon.com
Most of my issues have been with leaky older windows. For these I've had good luck adding interior storms made of acrylic. You can hold them in place with velcro tape or magnetic and steel tape. Works great to cut the drafts from leaky windows.
Do they make "black" solar blinds for the winter, that act as solar absorbers ?
The black side facing out would collect the sun, then radiat out into the room ?
just wondering
The black side facing out would collect the sun, then radiat out into the room ?
just wondering
I've been thinking about this topic - 6 patio-door sized pieces of fixed double-pane glass on the south side of my 2 story home. they are great when the sun shines and sure cool it off at night. I'm most intrigued by the doublecell honeycomb units with side tracks. I'm sure they won't do as well as windowquilts & bobbins units, and my guess is that they are a good "bang-for-the-buck" investment anyway. hoping the side seal is enough of an air barrier to minimize the condensation on the window on cold nights
the style of honeycombs that can lower from the top as well as raise from the bottom would be helpful as solar collectors - just drop the top a little during the day and the warm air from the window side would convect out the top into the room. if left in that position, they would still, in theory, minimize heat loss.
bobbin - any thoughts from you on the honeycomb style ones? would love to hear your educated opinion.
the style of honeycombs that can lower from the top as well as raise from the bottom would be helpful as solar collectors - just drop the top a little during the day and the warm air from the window side would convect out the top into the room. if left in that position, they would still, in theory, minimize heat loss.
bobbin - any thoughts from you on the honeycomb style ones? would love to hear your educated opinion.
I can't speak to the efficiency or R rating of the shades available from outfits like: Hunter Douglas, Levolor, etc.. I don't handle them and they're not "my bag". But they probably have a TON of information on their respective websites and would be well worth a look. I can tell you, though, that they aren't inexpensive (NO window treatment is). They offer a distinct "look" that is clean, neat, and uncluttered. The only exposure I have to them is when a room is receiving a "make over" and the owners have tired of the "minimalist" look and want to "soften the effect" by adding fabric draperies.
I work with fabric and I work in the world of traditional window treatments, drapery work, and slipcovers. The sort of thing I do is what you see when you open a copy of "Traditional Home", "Architectural Digest", or any of the interior design magazines.
What I can tell you is that insulation relies a good deal on maintaining an airspace between the glass and the room. Shades that are mounted inside (between the jambs of the window) are probably the most efficient. But "inside mounts" also require that the "stack" (where the shades rest when fully retracted) will cover some of the glass (viewing area). This would likely be the case with anything that operated between vertical tracks. Outside mounts can be retracted above the glass, but they often sacrifice a snug fit against the window trim. Traditonal draperies mounted on traverse rods have what are called "returns", meaning that the treatments turn the corner fcreated by the rod's installation and return to the wall to prevent the inevitable drafts from leaking out from behind the treatment. This same principle holds for many of the more formal shade treatments, too (Ballon shades or Austrian shades).
I work with fabric and I work in the world of traditional window treatments, drapery work, and slipcovers. The sort of thing I do is what you see when you open a copy of "Traditional Home", "Architectural Digest", or any of the interior design magazines.
What I can tell you is that insulation relies a good deal on maintaining an airspace between the glass and the room. Shades that are mounted inside (between the jambs of the window) are probably the most efficient. But "inside mounts" also require that the "stack" (where the shades rest when fully retracted) will cover some of the glass (viewing area). This would likely be the case with anything that operated between vertical tracks. Outside mounts can be retracted above the glass, but they often sacrifice a snug fit against the window trim. Traditonal draperies mounted on traverse rods have what are called "returns", meaning that the treatments turn the corner fcreated by the rod's installation and return to the wall to prevent the inevitable drafts from leaking out from behind the treatment. This same principle holds for many of the more formal shade treatments, too (Ballon shades or Austrian shades).
At work I have a big window. It's a tight fitting single glazed wooden shash, double hung.
It had plastic mini-binds on it. In the winter I could feel a cold draft (convection, not breeze) coming off the window, across my desk, and on my hands.
So I put up a pair of old curtains. They're really thin, kind of like bed sheets. It made a huge difference. Much less draft and a more comfortable room.
My point is that anything is better than nothing.
It had plastic mini-binds on it. In the winter I could feel a cold draft (convection, not breeze) coming off the window, across my desk, and on my hands.
So I put up a pair of old curtains. They're really thin, kind of like bed sheets. It made a huge difference. Much less draft and a more comfortable room.
My point is that anything is better than nothing.
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