Better coaling with stove than insert?

[ADK_XJ]

I've had a Regency i2400 (I for insert) for a few seasons now and generally happy but one thing that does irk me is the (seeming) lack of heat production from coals. Woke up this morning to the firebox 1/3 full of coals from a load of locust last night but the therm on top was reading just about 250.

Is this an insert thing? Because of the jacketing around the body? Are freestanding stoves better producers of heat with their radiant design and full exposure to the room?

I did have the air choked almost all the way down for the overnight burn but that does not seem to impact combustion when there's still full pieces of wood in there at secondary.

 

[rwhite]

Nature of the beast with inserts. I always ran my fan on low to keep the heat moving out of the jacket. A block off plate is almost a must have IMO. I don't think an insert will ever be made to match up with a free stander but they are a lot better than a fireplace

 

[jatoxico]

There was a similar thread running the other day about free standers vs inserts and efficiency. Inserts may burn the wood as efficiently as free standing stoves but heat transfer to the living space is not as good. Especially true with exterior masonry chimney. With an interior I guess you get some of that heat back with an exterior chimney a fair fraction of the energy I produce goes to the great outdoors.

 

[ADK_XJ]

Nature of the beast with inserts. I always ran my fan on low to keep the heat moving out of the jacket. A block off plate is almost a must have IMO. I don't think an insert will ever be made to match up with a free stander but they are a lot better than a fireplace

Yeah, I tore out the "Certified Installer" insulation setup last year and put in a Hearth.com approved block-off — made a huge difference but still has trouble at full coal stage.

 

[ADK_XJ]

There was a similar thread running the other day about free standers vs inserts and efficiency. Inserts may burn the wood as efficiently as free standing stoves but heat transfer to the living space is not as good. Especially true with exterior masonry chimney. With an interior I guess you get some of that heat back with an exterior chimney a fair fraction of the energy I produce goes to the great outdoors.

Right and I have both an insert AND an exterior chimney. But, it does amply heat the main area of the house where we spent 90% of our time so I guess I'll take what I have.

Just wish these beautifully glowing coals were doing more for me!

 

[jatoxico]

Right and I have both an insert AND an exterior chimney. But, it does amply heat the main area of the house where we spent 90% of our time so I guess I'll take what I have.

Just wish these beautifully glowing coals were doing more for me!

Same boat. Well insulated smoke shelf and block-off plate with moderately well insulated firebox helps a lot. But for example I'm just starting up now from cold. If I stick my fingers in the vent it's just got too hot to touch but only getting a little radiant heat off the glass. A lot of masonry in the room will soak up a bunch of heat from at least the first load and the backside will never be captured as usable heat. If the stove was sitting in the middle of the room or out on the hearth it would already be doing some work. It's why I always recommend a free stander if the install allows for it. Still able to heat my house comfortably though.

 

[jscs.moore]

I've had a Regency i2400 (I for insert) for a few seasons now and generally happy but one thing that does irk me is the (seeming) lack of heat production from coals. Woke up this morning to the firebox 1/3 full of coals from a load of locust last night but the therm on top was reading just about 250.

Is this an insert thing? Because of the jacketing around the body? Are freestanding stoves better producers of heat with their radiant design and full exposure to the room?

I did have the air choked almost all the way down for the overnight burn but that does not seem to impact combustion when there's still full pieces of wood in there at secondary.

 

[jscs.moore]

Yeah...love my HI300 insert, but if I had my druthers I would have a large free standing wood stove. But we have a Center Hall Colonial and my wife would never approve as it wouldn't fit the look she wants Yeah, excessive coaling can be a problem with my insert especially when it starts getting really cold like it is this weekend (mid 20s). But I have used the advice from many on this site which involves raking the coals forward toward the air intake and placing a small split on top. It definitely works to burn down the coals fairly quickly and also throws off some good heat in the process. I was skeptical when I first tried it and depending on the amount of coals you might have to repeat the process...but it does work. There's also a very good article on this exact process on woodheat.org

 

[fire_man]

Don't forget locust is notorious for making lots of coals. Smaller size splits and not choking it down all the way should help.

 

[griam01]

Yeah...love my HI300 insert, but if I had my druthers I would have a large free standing wood stove. But we have a Center Hall Colonial and my wife would never approve as it wouldn't fit the look she wants Yeah, excessive coaling can be a problem with my insert especially when it starts getting really cold like it is this weekend (mid 20s). But I have used the advice from many on this site which involves raking the coals forward toward the air intake and placing a small split on top. It definitely works to burn down the coals fairly quickly and also throws off some good heat in the process. I was skeptical when I first tried it and depending on the amount of coals you might have to repeat the process...but it does work. There's also a very good article on this exact process on woodheat.org

I have a lot of coals right now in my ci2600. Do you open your bypass and air all the way when you do this? The article says primary air but doesn't mention bypass. I am assuming the answer is yes but wanted to verify. Thanks in advance for your time.


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[jscs.moore]

I have a lot of coals right now in my ci2600. Do you open your bypass and air all the way when you do this? The article says primary air but doesn't mention bypass. I am assuming the answer is yes but wanted to verify. Thanks in advance for your time.


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I have an HI300, which only has one air intake rod to control the burn. I just rake the coals forward, put a small to medium split on top and make sure the air intake is all the way open. This way the split burns real fast & hot...and that is what helps burn down the coal bed quickly.

 

[OhioBurner©]

Coals have a whole lot less BTUs, not sure if there is any really big difference between insert and free standing on this. Each stove is going to be a bit different, and how the air is controlled. Will need more air to burn the coals hotter, and air down low in the coal bed or under an ash grate (I know most stoves don't have that ability).

 

[ADK_XJ]

Coals have a whole lot less BTUs, not sure if there is any really big difference between insert and free standing on this. Each stove is going to be a bit different, and how the air is controlled. Will need more air to burn the coals hotter, and air down low in the coal bed or under an ash grate (I know most stoves don't have that ability).

So, it's generally accepted that, whether insert or freestanding, people open up the air to burn down goals. I'm always caught between wanting to burn down and not wanting to let all that heat up the flue but it's sort of a Catch-22 I suppose.

The ash grate is a good point and a reason I want to add a NC-60 to our planned addition. It's something I see a huge benefit from on my other wood burning hobby: maple sugaring. You pretty much have to employ some type of raised fire bed in that application because you're trying to burn as hot and as fast as you can with the minimum build up of coals.