Hi everyone I'm John new to wood stoves. I bought a house that had a better n bens wood stove in it and I'm having issues. I can't seem to keep it burning. If I close the doors I don't get enough air to coals and it smothers. I open the door and it flashes then burns rampant. I have a good draft I think. I feel like I'm wasting way more wood than I should be. Also the thermometer on it doesn't get over 250-300 degrees. Thanks for the help!
Better N Bens
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The better n bens that I've been around are not much more than glorified barrel stoves. It should be able to burn just about anything you can throw in it. It really sounds like your wood is wet. Does it sizzle or foam out of the ends of the wood? How long has the wood been cut split and stacked?
Does it smoke out of the door when it's opened?
Does it smoke out of the door when it's opened?
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
first question everyone is going to ask is how is your wood. how long has it been cut and split. it is often the root of similar problems, especially if you have a good draft.
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
.....while not pretty, i've heated with one of those old barrel stoves......it was a monster. i lined the bottom with sand, then fire brick and gave it too her. worked for years.
I'm pretty sure the guy I bought wood from said it was 6-7 months spilt. Sounds hollow when you bang them together. It does sizzle, maybe a little foam. If I open the door really fast I get some smoke. This morning it has been running about 400, I tried building a better starter fire.
mark cline
Minister of Fire
What is your flue size , height ,masonry chimney, double wall , does it go straight up through the house , any bends ? Wood moisture content, outside temps. where are you located?
Wood's wet, that's not long enough to season. Mix some 2x4 with the wet wood or pallet wood to help out. Keep an eye on the chimney as your wood will build creosote quickly.
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
i've found out the hard way that wood dealers are a lot like used car salesmen....... seasoned to them is a lot different than what we think of. if you can get a hold of one, a moisture meter will help you out in determining what will or will not burn better. I'd start scrounging some pallets to help out with the wetter/green wood. mix them together and it will help out.
If the chimney hasn't been cleaned or you don't know what to look for, find a sweep and have it inspected. Nothing will burn if the chimney is plugged except possibly the house. Folks new to wood heat have a learning curve and first year burners never have dry wood. None of us did ether so don't feel bad, just get some scraps to help out. You may have to do that from time to time. Split the wood smaller and store some inside with a fan blowing on it if you can to help dry it. Does it have glass doors? Every stove is different in running so adjusting the draft is important to learn. Start with air wide open and close it down as the fire picks up until you have the burn you want.
The stove doesn't have glass doors. I looked at the flue. I've got some experience with chimney fires from being a firefighter. The flue look brand new. No black or build up. I can only close the door and leave air intake wide open after an hour or so after starting. Then throw 2-3 pieces on and stove sits around 200
Sounds like the wood needs longer to season, especially if it's oak. It takes a couple years to season oak and hickory. 6-7 months would barely be enough for doug fir. Keep an eye on the flue and clean once for every cord of wood burned.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Might could be the wood ain't dry enough and what has been said about wood and wood dealers is all true. But that old stove can tolerate wetter wood than a newer unit if it's drafting ok and the wood is getting enough air. Can you confirm that the flue damper (upper right) is working? May be stuck partially closed? That you need to leave the doors open for a long time to warm the flue enough to get draft going could be a clue.
You also mentioned you took a look at the flue and it's clean, how is this stove installed? Is it simply slid into the firebox or has it been connected to the existing flue. Best would be a full liner from the stove to the top.
You also mentioned you took a look at the flue and it's clean, how is this stove installed? Is it simply slid into the firebox or has it been connected to the existing flue. Best would be a full liner from the stove to the top.
When I look down the flue from the roof all I see is clay. There is no liner up to the roof. The damper open and closes properly. I just threw 3 peices on with to doors open to help them catch, the wife said i almost smoked out the neighborhood.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Search for the term "slammer" install here and see if you think that's what you have. If you come to believe this is what you have, you may find it never runs as well as you might like and you should know these installs are not to code and potentially quite dangerous.
It may be a slammer I'm not sure how the damper would still operate with a partial liner in there. A direct connect is supposed to take the liner to the second tile.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I think those units come with a damper installed below the flue connector. The original chimney damper may or may not have been removed (?).
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Pull the surround and you may be able to see. Should not be tough. Have you had it swept and inspected? A sweep should able to tell.
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