Have decided to go with the Biasi boiler (3 wood6 -104,000) and getting a price on the install. I have to power vent the oil boiler (Weil-Mcclain) and the Biasi will sit along side using the 7"thimble into an 8X8 tile lined chimney. I need some suggestions with how to heat my domestic hot water as I was told there is no coil in the Biasi boiler. Also, for a dump zone I was thinking of running a baseboard in the unfinished cellar as I use this for my hobby. my installer is installing a wood boiler in his own home and says he is going to put a 40 gal water heater in for a dump zone. He also told me he could install so that the Biasi would also heat domestic hot water. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to have the oil boiler take a long rest. Also, the Biasi can burn Bituminous coal and I was wondering if that is the case can I use Anthracite in it. One wholesaler told me they would have shaker grates available latter. Thanks in advance for all your help as I have found this site great.
Biasi Boiler Install
- Thread starter Steamer
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Just a comment on the dump zone. I understand these to handle over-heat situations. This can occur with a power outage. To handle this, you likely need a gravity fed dump zone, and baseboard or hot water tank may not work. Alternative could include a UPS to provide power to the circ to the dump zone. Issue remaining is circ failure and dump zone activation, which again likely requires gravity fed system.
I am installing this same boiler,
1. I was planing on running it straight into my existing heating system. I am going to use a normaly open zone valve plumbed in after the flow check on the largest zone of heat in case of a power failure so the system should gravity feed as long as it is piped properly.
2. I am installing a 3/4 bypas loop from the supply to the return off of the 1 1/4 piping used to feed my oil boiler, this is to protect the boiler from the return comming back to cold and to hopfully help the boiler to run hot enough to not buit up as much creosolt. The wood boiler will not circulate untill it is above 130 degrees. I plan on puting temeture gauges on the supply and return at the wood boiler to get a better idea of what is going on.
3. I have a 40 gal indirect that I am going to install to only run when the heating system is over 140 degrees using an aquastat that closes on heat rise (this is to keep the heat in the indirect when the wood fire goes out) then heat that water tank to 160 degrees and temper it down with a sparco mixing valve, the indirect water heater will be piped in series with my direct oil fired water heater. Also this indirect will not have the end switch wired so it will only run when the wood boiler is running.
This is the install that is going to happen with in the next two weeks.
It will be my first indoor wood boiler installation.
I have installed a wood doctor boiler for a friend of mine which has been running for a year now and I have installed hundreds of oil boilers.
Some of my pipping stratagys have come from reading this forum and now I hope to have pictures to post when I am done.
Good luck with your instalation and keep us posted..
1. I was planing on running it straight into my existing heating system. I am going to use a normaly open zone valve plumbed in after the flow check on the largest zone of heat in case of a power failure so the system should gravity feed as long as it is piped properly.
2. I am installing a 3/4 bypas loop from the supply to the return off of the 1 1/4 piping used to feed my oil boiler, this is to protect the boiler from the return comming back to cold and to hopfully help the boiler to run hot enough to not buit up as much creosolt. The wood boiler will not circulate untill it is above 130 degrees. I plan on puting temeture gauges on the supply and return at the wood boiler to get a better idea of what is going on.
3. I have a 40 gal indirect that I am going to install to only run when the heating system is over 140 degrees using an aquastat that closes on heat rise (this is to keep the heat in the indirect when the wood fire goes out) then heat that water tank to 160 degrees and temper it down with a sparco mixing valve, the indirect water heater will be piped in series with my direct oil fired water heater. Also this indirect will not have the end switch wired so it will only run when the wood boiler is running.
This is the install that is going to happen with in the next two weeks.
It will be my first indoor wood boiler installation.
I have installed a wood doctor boiler for a friend of mine which has been running for a year now and I have installed hundreds of oil boilers.
Some of my pipping stratagys have come from reading this forum and now I hope to have pictures to post when I am done.
Good luck with your instalation and keep us posted..
Just wondering what you decided to use for a dump zone, I was thinking of using some radiators in the cellar, curious to how you made out.Steamer said:
My dump zone is the main zone of heat to my house. I tied the overheat aquastat in parelell with my thermostat which is tied into 7 old cast iron radiators.
An indirect water heater is not the best choice for a dump zone but is a great way to get hot water off of the wood boiler, I have mine set at 160 and controll the temp of the water with a Sparco mixing vlave. Once it is heated to it's set point it holds the heat until the hot water is run.
Due to the volume of water in my system I very rarely get up to 200 deg. f. int he system. My house will overshoot the thermostat by as much as 5 deg. f. though.
It is a balancing act. So far the longest burn I have had is 6 hrs. but I am avarging more like 4hrs...
This year my burns are more complete with less ash... I used some 1/4 inch grid fencing to line the bottom if the burn area to stop the coals from falling through the grates.
An indirect water heater is not the best choice for a dump zone but is a great way to get hot water off of the wood boiler, I have mine set at 160 and controll the temp of the water with a Sparco mixing vlave. Once it is heated to it's set point it holds the heat until the hot water is run.
Due to the volume of water in my system I very rarely get up to 200 deg. f. int he system. My house will overshoot the thermostat by as much as 5 deg. f. though.
It is a balancing act. So far the longest burn I have had is 6 hrs. but I am avarging more like 4hrs...
This year my burns are more complete with less ash... I used some 1/4 inch grid fencing to line the bottom if the burn area to stop the coals from falling through the grates.
Steamer; Be carefull with soft coal & if you use this make sure your stovepipe is secure(screws rivets etc). I almost blew the stovepipe off my Energy Mate with this stuff. Hard coal is great & should burn fine if your firebox has straight sides(no V grate). The engineer from Russell clued me in on this many years ago, Randy
Thanks for the reply, I also put some tie plates in the bottom of the boiler, which has increased by burn times significantly, went from 3-4 hour burn times to 6 to 7 hours.Dredknot said:
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