BK boxer 24.1 reviews and experiences

[Rob_Red]

I would love to hear from anyone who has a boxer 24 and burns continuously throughout the cold season.

What kind of burn time do you achieve?
Is the stove easily to revive after an overnight burn?
How often do you need to clean the catalyst?
What do you like and dislike about the stove?

I'm interested in this stove for my 1600 sf moderately insulted house the deals with CT winters. We currently utilize a Hearthstone green mountain 40 as the primary heat source, it does keep the house warm but it takes frequent reloads, cold starts in the mornings, and continuous maintenance/cleaning of the catalyst. I feel like we are asking a lot from a stove that isn't really a serious full time heater.

A stove with a larger "gas tank" that can give us the flexibility to either blast some heat when needed, or turn now for a low and slow long term burn is appealing.

One thing we love about the GM40 is it's size and clearances. I would jump straight to a 3 cubic foot firebox stove in a heartbeat if it wasn't physically too big for the room. All of the bigger 3 cubic foot stoves I look at are around 30" deep and would really intrude into the living space/ walk way.

This is causing me to look into the 2.5 size category and the options are limited to say the least! The boxer 24 is pretty slim yet wide which may be a perfect combo packaging wise.

 

[stoveliker]

While I can't comment on the specific Boxer burn times, generally, BKs are able to reach the times advertised. I.e. you should be able to get to 20 (24?) hrs. Of course that is with a *low* output which may not be enough heat for your needs.

In my stove what is left after the long burn time (advertised 30, achieved 36-37 measured by when the cat fell out of the active region) is enough coals to restart a dry new full load. Wood that's not as dry may have trouble catching on the amount of coals I have after that time. But dry (3-4 yr) red oak catches before I'm done reloading.

Regarding the cat cleaning; what is your chimney height? A tall one may result in a high draft which could suck up ashes into the cat.
Some BK users have seen issues with that (which were resolved by adding a key damper).

 

[Rob_Red]

While I can't comment on the specific Boxer burn times, generally, BKs are able to reach the times advertised. I.e. you should be able to get to 20 (24?) hrs. Of course that is with a *low* output which may not be enough heat for your needs.

In my stove what is left after the long burn time (advertised 30, achieved 36-37 measured by when the cat fell out of the active region) is enough coals to restart a dry new full load. Wood that's not as dry may have trouble catching on the amount of coals I have after that time. But dry (3-4 yr) red oak catches before I'm done reloading.

Regarding the cat cleaning; what is your chimney height? A tall one may result in a high draft which could suck up ashes into the cat.
Some BK users have seen issues with that (which were resolved by adding a key damper).

My chimney is tall (around 25ft) and when it's cold out is a draft monster. I need to run my Hearthstone with the air cut all the way down to prevent rapid cat clogging, sometimes I will even slide the information card over the stoves intake to further choke it down.

I know I most likely would benefit from a key damper regardless of the stove.

In shoulder season it drafts pretty reasonably

 

[stoveliker]

My chimney is tall (around 25ft) and when it's cold out is a draft monster. I need to run my Hearthstone with the air cut all the way down to prevent rapid cat clogging, sometimes I will even slide the information card over the stoves intake to further choke it down.

I know I most likely would benefit from a key damper regardless of the stove.

In shoulder season it drafts pretty reasonably

Yes, in that case I would do so. Having too much draft also decreases the efficacy of a cat, as the "residence time" of the gases in the cat decrease at high flow rates. (i.e. decreasing your draft with a key damper might even get you a cleaner chimney)

 

[Rob_Red]

Yes, in that case I would do so. Having too much draft also decreases the efficacy of a cat, as the "residence time" of the gases in the cat decrease at high flow rates. (i.e. decreasing your draft with a key damper might even get you a cleaner chimney)

So my stove connector pipe is an adjustable double wall section. Can I install a damper in this? If not I would need to cut the adjustable section to make room for a solid one which I think would void the UL approval

 

[stoveliker]

You can, if you can do so in a section where the pipes do not slide over each other.
I.e. if you have a "single" (rather than doubled, sliding over each other) piece at the bottom, and at disassembling have "sliding space" left at the bottom of the pipe, that is where you could add the damper.

 

[Tron]

I agree on the damper.
That said, my Chinook 30.2 is only two inches deeper than the Boxer 24.1. Might be something to consider, since obviously you get more output if needed, but also more "gas in the tank".
Runs very well even when turned down.

 

[joop]

just to throw what stoveliker said back at you,if you slow draft down might your stove do the job for you?just trying to be cheap lol.

 

[Rob_Red]

just to throw what stoveliker said back at you,if you slow draft down might your stove do the job for you?just trying to be cheap lol.

I hear ya, and yes I will go this rout first. To bad winters almost over, I'm running out of test days!

 

[reaperman1]

This is my reply to another recent post.

I also have a Boxer and found out very quickly that this stove doesnt put out much radiant heart. The way it was designed, it traps most of the heat between the stove and the stoves outer casing. When I have a good fire going I can actually place my bare hand on the sides and even the top of the stove, except in the very top center over the catalyst. Try that on any other wood stove and your skin would be gone! IMO, BK should have cut some holes in the outer casing to let the heat escape rather than trapping it inside. The only radiant heat comes from the front door and glass. Which is only 1/6th of the firebox. With all of this said, you need to run the blower if equipped. Without the blower, the stove is just another fireplace

 

[stoveliker]

And my response there: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/catalytic-stove-does-it-have-to-damped-down.203403/post-2720664

 

[Rob_Red]

This is my reply to another recent post.

I also have a Boxer and found out very quickly that this stove doesnt put out much radiant heart. The way it was designed, it traps most of the heat between the stove and the stoves outer casing. When I have a good fire going I can actually place my bare hand on the sides and even the top of the stove, except in the very top center over the catalyst. Try that on any other wood stove and your skin would be gone! IMO, BK should have cut some holes in the outer casing to let the heat escape rather than trapping it inside. The only radiant heat comes from the front door and glass. Which is only 1/6th of the firebox. With all of this said, you need to run the blower if equipped. Without the blower, the stove is just another fireplace

hmmm seems like a deal breaker for me

 

[stoveliker]

You could go for a Chinook (similarly modern look) model 20.
I heat my whole home (with a 30 model) from the basement, and have no fan on the stove. (I do have a fan to get heat upstairs.)

Or, there are other good stove brands available (sometimes looking less "modern").

 

[reaperman1]

hmmm seems like a deal breaker for me

I gave a honest opinion on my 2nd year of running the Boxer. The big glass window and the overall appearance of the stove is what caught my eye. I like the storage under the firebox, its handy. I found out real fast the glass is almost always black, seldom is the fire visible. Mostly due to how BK's run in general, a smoldering fire. Coupled with the build up due to a smoldering fire. I do get some nice secondary flames that are only visible after cleaning the glass. But that only lasts one evening, by morning the glass is dirty again. I gave up trying to keep it clean. The firebox angles inwards towards the back which is kind of a pain too. Plus its not very tall, its hard to stack 2 splits high. As the firebox angles inwards, the outside of the firebox also angles further away from the outer shell. This makes even more air space between the actual outside of the firebox and the outer shell. Thus reducing the possibility for heat output on the sides of the stove. Remember air is the best insulator. The front side of the firebox is 2" from the outer shell on the left and righthand side. The very rear of the firebox is impossible to measure, but I'd say its at least 4.5" from the outer shell. Thats why the heat output is so dismal on both sides. Again, BK could have made the stoves heat output better by not trapping all of the hot air within. I blower is a must, but that comes at a price with nonstop background noise. If you have frequent power outages and rely on wood as many do. A tube stove would be a better choice. I compare the heat output of this stove with my shop stove a Englander 13. I paid 10x more $$ for the BK than the 13. The little 13 with a smaller firebox and no blower puts out way more heat. In burn times there is no comparison, the BK shines. Overnight burns are no problem which are not possible on the Englander.

 

[reaperman1]

hmmm seems like a deal breaker for me

Another thing you should know up front is the cost of a replacement catalyst. Most cat replacements on BK stoves run approx $125. A new cat for the BK inserts and Boxer is over $400 which is crazy. Especially since its very similar in size to other BK stoves which replacements are substantially less $$.

 

[Tron]

I like the storage under the firebox, its handy.

I'm actually not so sure about that. The BK pictures show that you can store firwood there, but since at least I can never rule out one or the other bug in the firewood, which then become active in the warm livingroom, I store my wood outside.

 

[reaperman1]

I'm actually not so sure about that. The BK pictures show that you can store firwood there, but since at least I can never rule out one or the other bug in the firewood, which then become active in the warm livingroom, I store my wood outside.

Not a issue here in Minnesota. I take the wood from my wood shed where its generally too cold for any bug to survive trying to winter inside firewood.

 

[Highbeam]

Not a issue here in Minnesota. I take the wood from my wood shed where its generally too cold for any bug to survive trying to winter inside firewood.

Even when the wood and bugs are ice cold, they warm up and come back to life once you bring the wood in. I get hornets trying to sleep in the stacks and do not want sleepy bees flying around.

 

[begreen]

Even when the wood and bugs are ice cold, they warm up and come back to life once you bring the wood in. I get hornets trying to sleep in the stacks and do not want sleepy bees flying around.

Me too. Just spotted one the other day.