Blaze King Ashford 30 install and a big THANKS!

[holtkasg]

I qualified for the Fairbanks wood stove replacement program, so I got a BK Ashford 30 installed (new install location) for $1800, with a ton of compressed logs as well. I lurked here for a long while and learned a ton, thanks everyone! You've got a wonderful resource here.

The house is 1800 square feet, with about 600 square feet in the basement, and pretty tight (2x8 construction, triple pane windows. Last year we used about 650 gallons of heating oil). The stove is installed in a large room on the main level of the house, one bedroom upstairs. I do have two doggie doors, through to an arctic entry and then to the outside, so I'm thinking that should give more than sufficient draft when it gets cold. Installers were able to go straight up through the roof, so there are no bends in the flue, and it's about 14 feet tall. Fan kit is on it's way. No OAK, yet (we'll wait and see how it does in the winter before deciding on that).

We moved into the house less than a year ago. I started on a wood pile this spring, and have about 3 cords of mostly cottonwood, with a little birch and black spruce mixed in. Since I wanted to burn this year, I took the time to go to smaller splits, about 3-4" max, and stacked in the sun all summer. It was all recently fallen or standing dead for the first couple of cords. The wood is mostly at about 14% now, tested on fresh splits. I've got about another 2 cords of green rounds and should have another few cords worth after I take down some cottonwoods that are leaning towards the house, which I'd like to get split and stacked before winter. Then at least I'll be a year ahead. This cottonwood dries super quickly, I was surprised. I can go from a cold stove to fully active in about 15-20 minutes

It's getting to about freezing at night, so we've had a few smaller fires to cure the paint and give us a bit of heat. I'm very impressed with the stove, we're going to love it.

I do have some questions about it though. First, the thermostat isn't quite calibrated right. On a cold stove, I can hear the flapper click closed at exactly 3 o'clock, so right in the middle of the "normal" on the dial. This seems to be quite a bit higher than on other peoples stoves. It also doesn't give me much room between the max setting and where it will always be shut. Should I try to recalibrate it, or just deal with it as a quirk on my stove?

Second, when I run it at anything less than 2.5, it will die out over night without burning all the wood, but if I go higher, it heats the house up too much and then dies in the middle of the night. I haven't been loading it all the way, because it's a bit too much for our weather now (no need to burn during the day with solar gain). Will this problem likely go away when it gets colder and I've got it loaded up fully?

Thanks again, and sorry for the long post,
Steve

 

[prezes13]

I think that premature dying might be due to a short flue. You might be not getting enough of a draft. I have no experience with bk stoves but do a search I recall a guy experiencing a problem with his ashford. He added 4' of chimney and he was bragging about 75 hours of a burn.

 

[Highbeam]

14 feet of vertical flue, double wall in the house(?), should meet the minimum spec in the manual. I only have 14 and it's great.

Your stat situation is troubling. If, as you say, it is clacking the stat closed at 50% throttle then your 2.5 setting would be equivalent to a very low setting and perhaps too low to maintain cat ignition. Do remember that each model has a different stat so you can't compare the settings I report on my princess to your ashford. Call BK about the stat and/or check a floor model stove at the dealer as a comparison.

Partial stove loads of cottonwood are not going to last as long as a full load of denser wood. Your fuel tank is only partially filled so I would expect short burn times.

 

[holtkasg]

14 feet of vertical flue, double wall in the house(?), should meet the minimum spec in the manual. I only have 14 and it's great.

Your stat situation is troubling. If, as you say, it is clacking the stat closed at 50% throttle then your 2.5 setting would be equivalent to a very low setting and perhaps too low to maintain cat ignition. Do remember that each model has a different stat so you can't compare the settings I report on my princess to your ashford. Call BK about the stat and/or check a floor model stove at the dealer as a comparison.

Partial stove loads of cottonwood are not going to last as long as a full load of denser wood. Your fuel tank is only partially filled so I would expect short burn times.

Thanks for the input. I've checked the stoves at the dealer (The Woodway, Fairbanks AK), and they click closed when the thermostat is almost vertical to maybe 1 o'clock or so. There was some variability between the different models, but none of them closed anywhere near where mine is closing. When the stove comes up to temperature, say with the cat thermometer at about 12 o'clock, I can only rotate the thermostat 1/8 of a turn or so before it closes.

At this point in the season, I only really want the stove to go for 6-8 hours or so, hence the partial cottonwood loads. I realize it will be much more efficient when I load the stove up fully, I was just wondering if it's possible to get a 6-8 hour low burn on 8 or so medium splits without the stove going inactive before all the wood is gone. I feel like I'm close, so I'll keep trying.

I wish I had more birch (that's the hardest wood around here), but our woods are mostly cottonwood, and all the trees that are near our house that need to come down are cottonwood, so I'll have that for a while.

 

[holtkasg]

I think that premature dying might be due to a short flue. You might be not getting enough of a draft. I have no experience with bk stoves but do a search I recall a guy experiencing a problem with his ashford. He added 4' of chimney and he was bragging about 75 hours of a burn.

I read that thread, it was the BK 2013-2014 performance thread. The draft is certainly on my mind, especially with the burn dying. I wouldn't have even thought of that without these forums, so thanks!

 

[Highbeam]

At this point in the season, I only really want the stove to go for 6-8 hours or so, hence the partial cottonwood loads. I realize it will be much more efficient when I load the stove up fully, I was just wondering if it's possible to get a 6-8 hour low burn on 8 or so medium splits without the stove going inactive before all the wood is gone. I feel like I'm close, so I'll keep trying.

The stove is just as efficient with partial cottonwood loads as it will be with anything else, it's just that your maximum potential btus in that firebox is very low so even at a low burn rate the wood will be consumed quickly. It is absolutely possible to get a 6-8 burn with an active cat in this stove. You either use a higher burn rate with a medium fuel load or a low burn rate with very little fuel.

In the very edge of the shoulder seasons when I only need a little heat, I can burn what is basically a kindling fire nice and hot.

I am worried about your stat. I wouldn't wait to get that thing resolved until winter. If your dealer is good he may swap your stat with a floor model while the new part is shipped. I suspect you'll need a good dealer or BK support to get the stat swapped though.

 

[webby3650]

It does sound like your stat might be having some issues.
Draft will play a very big role in the operation of this stove. 14' is at the very minimum, actually a foot short of the minimum if i remember correctly. I often find my cat to be inactive in the morning, but i just crank the air up and its back cranking in only a few minutes. I think is mainly to due with the steel cat lacking the thermal mass that the cerimac cats have. Its no real issue though, its still making heat and there is no smoke coming from the flue. It fires back up in no time at all!

 

[Highbeam]

In the pic, it looks like single wall stovepipe. Is it? Of the 14', how much is class A?

 

[BKVP]

O.K., so here's the deal with your thermostat. If you notice, the white line on the thermostat goes beyond 6 o'clock (pointing straight down at the floor) to about 7 o'clock.

Here is how to make a 60 second adjustment to correct our setting.

First, turn the stove all the way to highest setting.

Second, loosen the little tiny set screw on the knob.

Third, don't allow the rod to turn counter clockwise, Hold with pliers if you like. Turn the black knob counter clockwise until the white line point down at the floor (6' o'clock). Then, tighten the set screw.

When you now turn the knob to a lower setting the blade will close (if stove is cold) when the white line is pointing at about 2 o'clock and below the "normal" range.

Sorry for the confusion. We are working on either a new decal or altered setting position.

Thank you,
Chris

 

[holtkasg]

O.K., so here's the deal with your thermostat. If you notice, the white line on the thermostat goes beyond 6 o'clock (pointing straight down at the floor) to about 7 o'clock.

Here is how to make a 60 second adjustment to correct our setting.

First, turn the stove all the way to highest setting.

Second, loosen the little tiny set screw on the knob.

Third, don't allow the rod to turn counter clockwise, Hold with pliers if you like. Turn the black knob counter clockwise until the white line point down at the floor (6' o'clock). Then, tighten the set screw.

When you now turn the knob to a lower setting the blade will close (if stove is cold) when the white line is pointing at about 2 o'clock and below the "normal" range.

Sorry for the confusion. We are working on either a new decal or altered setting position.

Thank you,
Chris

Thank you so much for your input, Chris. I was hoping it was just a simple calibration issue like this. I'll pass this info along to the dealer at The Woodway, they were looking into the problem too.

If I understand correctly then, I haven't been able to run on "high," but rather only 1 o'clock shy of "high," because my thermostat knob was maxing out?

 

[holtkasg]

In the pic, it looks like single wall stovepipe. Is it? Of the 14', how much is class A?

It's double wall (Ultrablack). There is about 5 feet above the roof. I did not do the installation. Does class A typically start above the roof or in the roof trusses? There is about 2 feet between the roof and the ceiling (vaulted ceiling).

I think it's drafting just fine, but I'll certainly keep it in mind if it is acting funky when it gets a bit colder. I think my problems just have to do with the fact that I'm trying to burn partial loads on very low.

 

[holtkasg]

On a side note, boy this cottonwood is ashy! I might have to clean this out every other day at this rate.

 

[BKVP]

Thank you so much for your input, Chris. I was hoping it was just a simple calibration issue like this. I'll pass this info along to the dealer at The Woodway, they were looking into the problem too.

If I understand correctly then, I haven't been able to run on "high," but rather only 1 o'clock shy of "high," because my thermostat knob was maxing out?

Correct. Your dealer called me Thursday and I explained the issue to them as well.

 

[holtkasg]

Correct. Your dealer called me Thursday and I explained the issue to them as well.

Ok, sorry to bother you twice. I have to say I'm very impressed with the service at both BK and The Woodway. It's very comforting for someone who's never owned a stove before.

 

[Poindexter]

Also a new Ashford 30 owner in Fairbanks. I also, oddly, have about 14 feet of straight vertical flue.

I think what is going on with my stove in the shoulder season is I am just not getting enough draft to run the stove on low overnight. I'll certainly check my thermostat dial to see that the thingmajig clicks at 6 oclock on the dial. I suspect when the colder weather gets here I'll have no problem running overnight on low.

So far I am super impressed, though I am comparing to older smoke dragons and EPA cert non-cats, this is my first catalytic stove.

 

[HotCoals]

On any BK that I have looked over there is a idle hole to supply intake air when the t-stat is closed all the way. I would think the Ashford has the same deal.
My stove rarely dies out..maybe 3 times in 4 years and that was in the shoulders. Colder temps will make a big diff.

 

[webby3650]

On any BK that I have looked over there is a idle hole to supply intake air when the t-stat is closed all the way. I would think the Ashford has the same deal.
My stove rarely dies out..maybe 3 times in 4 years and that was in the shoulders. Colder temps will make a big diff.

The Ashford's aren't dying, the cat probe is just showing inactive if left on low for a long time.
It doesn't seem like any big deal to me, it's not smoking when it does this. I just turn the stat back up for a few and it's back to active in no time. I think it has a lot to do with the steel cat.

 

[HotCoals]

The Ashford's aren't dying, the cat probe is just showing inactive if left on low for a long time.
It doesn't seem like any big deal to me, it's not smoking when it does this. I just turn the stat back up for a few and it's back to active in no time. I think it has a lot to do with the steel cat.

I meant to say the cat stalling . I second the thought on the steel cat also.

 

[kennyp2339]

O.K., so here's the deal with your thermostat. If you notice, the white line on the thermostat goes beyond 6 o'clock (pointing straight down at the floor) to about 7 o'clock.

Here is how to make a 60 second adjustment to correct our setting.

First, turn the stove all the way to highest setting.

Second, loosen the little tiny set screw on the knob.

Third, don't allow the rod to turn counter clockwise, Hold with pliers if you like. Turn the black knob counter clockwise until the white line point down at the floor (6' o'clock). Then, tighten the set screw.

When you now turn the knob to a lower setting the blade will close (if stove is cold) when the white line is pointing at about 2 o'clock and below the "normal" range.

Sorry for the confusion. We are working on either a new decal or altered setting position.

Thank you,
Chris

This is the reason why I will own a BK stove by the end of October, great stove and better / honest customer service

 

[Poindexter]

Thank you BKVP. Sounds like I need to stop by WoodWay tomorrow myself. I have s/n 1156, my wife and I waited to be sure the blue wasn't going to be available this year and went with the chestnut brown pretty early in the spring.

On mine, the thermostat rotates between about 7oclock (which would be about -3 on the thermostat if it was labeled that far around, and turns clockwise to right at 5oclock, +3 on the thermostat label. I hear the click around 4oclock when turning the knob clockwise and around 2oclock when turning the knob counter clockwise.

If I can save even a face cord a year by adjusting that knob it's time well spent for me, my two biggest problems in northern Alaska are moving snow and moving firewood. I'll stop by and see Nathan after work tomorrow.

What I saw on mine over the summer (ambients above +50dF) was if I turned the thermostat down to 1 with the cat engaged the stove would not stay hot enough for the cat to stay active. I only did that once and kept a really hot fire on bypass for a solid hour before I re-engaged the cat. On that next burn it took a little while for the cat to get active again. Once it was active I kept it active on high for a couple or three hours. On subsequent burns since then the combustor heats up quickly when prewarmed into active and then engaged.

I also noticed if I bypassed the cat and turned the thermostat down to "zero" the fire would go out before my load of wood burned away.

If I don't change a thing I am going to burn less wood this year than I did last year, but saving a little more is A-OK.

 

[Woody Stover]

The Ashford's aren't dying, the cat probe is just showing inactive if left on low for a long time.
It doesn't seem like any big deal to me, it's not smoking when it does this. I just turn the stat back up for a few and it's back to active in no time. I think it has a lot to do with the steel cat.

If there's wood in the box (the load hasn't burned down to just coals) then I guess the cat is still burning if there's no smoke, not 'inactive.'

 

[Poindexter]

Ok, I stopped by my local BK dealer and learned a thing or two. They had a stove with "do not remove" cover off so I (and anyone else) could see the airdoor move as I turned the thermostat knob.

Both my local dealer and BKVP above in this thread want the white line on the thermostat knob pointing directly at the floor - 6 oclock - when the thermostat knob is twisted clockwise to the hottest setting possible. Mine was a 5/64" allen wrench for the set screw.

But it makes sense now that I have seen it with the cover off. There is a temp sensitive coil spring between the shaft the thermostat knob turns and the actual airdoor. I ass/u/me the spring is bimetal, don't know. Through the course of a burn as the stove heats and cools the coil spring makes fine adjustments to the air door opening that is coarsely set by the thermostat knob position.

So adjusting the knob to point at 6oclock with the airdoor wide open means the airdoor is pretty wide open at the highest thermostat setting of "three" near the five oclock position, but the coil spring has a little room to open the airdoor a leetle bit further as needed during a burn.

Turning the thermostat "down" counter clockwise much past where zero would be just puts reverse tension on the coil spring, meaning the stove would have to get really really hot for the spring to overcome all the reverse tension and then go a bit more forward to crack the airdoor open a tiny bit.

So now that my knob is adjusted I can load the stove, set the knob anywhere between about zero and three and forget about it. That's nice.

The other thing we talked about was leaving the combustor engaged during a burn as the wood burns away and the stove temperature drops. Supposedly ( and reasonably) once pre-heated and engaged the combustor starts converting the solids in wood smoke to heat and gasses. As the wood load burns down to charcoal, the wood gives off fewer and fewer volatiles causing the combustor to cool and eventually stall - but once stalled all that is left in the fire box is glowing colas of carbon being converted directly to CO2 - so the combustor isn't needed for the rest of this burn anyway and should not be getting gummed up by mere CO2..

Take home is my combustor should not have been gummed up and I can't explain why my combustor took longer to light off the one time I thought it was gummed up. However, it was only my third burn ever in this stove and I never have timed light off time with a clock. Second, I don't know what the ambient temperature was, just >+50dF. Might have been +51dF, might have been >+80dF, dunno. I am not going to worry about it.

I have a small load in tonight with the combustor active and I am not timing it this time either.

 

[Highbeam]

Once you and the stove are dialed in, the bk is boring to operate. Not much flame to look at, no adjustments to make, just 12-30 hours between reloads and steady output.

 

[SCOTT S.]

I'm a little thick so are you saying all ashfords t-stat's should be adjusted so the white line is at 6 o'clock when turned all the way up. Thanks I just don't want to screw with my new stove unless I'm sure its the right thing to do.

 

[BKVP]

I'm a little thick so are you saying all ashfords t-stat's should be adjusted so the white line is at 6 o'clock when turned all the way up. Thanks I just don't want to screw with my new stove unless I'm sure its the right thing to do.

Yes.