Blaze King Too Hot!!

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Kingme

New Member
Oct 27, 2023
19
Wa
We have had our Blaze King for over 20 years and loved it until the end of last season it was getting too hot.
We have a new catalytic, door glass (was cracked), gasket and a clean flu.
We have taken the cover off to see the "butterfly" is moving freely and correctly with the thermostat dial.

The problem is it gets well up to 4:00 on the thermometer and turning the thermostat down has no effect. It simply runs this hot until the wood supply goes down and the temperature follows suit.

We have spoken with Walla Walla and were simply told "that's how you know it's working".
We have never had one run this hot and not be able to adjust it!
Any ideas??
 
We have had our Blaze King for over 20 years and loved it until the end of last season it was getting too hot.
We have a new catalytic, door glass (was cracked), gasket and a clean flu.
We have taken the cover off to see the "butterfly" is moving freely and correctly with the thermostat dial.

The problem is it gets well up to 4:00 on the thermometer and turning the thermostat down has no effect. It simply runs this hot until the wood supply goes down and the temperature follows suit.

We have spoken with Walla Walla and were simply told "that's how you know it's working".
We have never had one run this hot and not be able to adjust it!
Any ideas??
Check for leaks elsewhere.

Are you sure the new glass and gasket are sealing properly?
 
Take the flapper cover back off..
Make sure flapper is fully closed…. Reinstall….. See if that helps…
If you had the cover off and reinstalled with the flapper open, there’s a stud/screw/stopper in there that could be holding it open !!
 
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Check for leaks elsewhere.

Are you sure the new glass and gasket are sealing properly?
We let the fire go out and Husband tightened door latch/lever. We inspected air tubes, silicone on the thermostat and visually looked for air leaks. It appears there is an impression on the gasket where it meets the door flange. What else to check?
 
We let the fire go out and Husband tightened door latch/lever. We inspected air tubes, silicone on the thermostat and visually looked for air leaks. It appears there is an impression on the gasket where it meets the door flange. What else to check?
The stove body. After 20 years it could be compromised
 
Thank you all for help. We have had the cover off and on a few times and made sure the screw is not interfering.
I can't imagine the new gasket being put in incorrectly but that is like the only thing we can retry. It did look like a sloppy job to me, so we'll take it to another place and try that.
How can the stove body be compromised? We didn't drop it, heheh !
 
Thank you all for help. We have had the cover off and on a few times and made sure the screw is not interfering.
I can't imagine the new gasket being put in incorrectly but that is like the only thing we can retry. It did look like a sloppy job to me, so we'll take it to another place and try that.
How can the stove body be compromised? We didn't drop it, heheh !
After that much time it can be cracked rusted through etc. That isn't likely but worth checking out if you can't find another answer
 
We have had our Blaze King for over 20 years and loved it until the end of last season it was getting too hot.
We have a new catalytic, door glass (was cracked), gasket and a clean flu.
We have taken the cover off to see the "butterfly" is moving freely and correctly with the thermostat dial.

The problem is it gets well up to 4:00 on the thermometer and turning the thermostat down has no effect. It simply runs this hot until the wood supply goes down and the temperature follows suit.

We have spoken with Walla Walla and were simply told "that's how you know it's working".
We have never had one run this hot and not be able to adjust it!
Any ideas??
Totally normal. You’re reading the catalyst thermometer and when the stove is working properly it goes up and stays up until the fuel runs out. The stove body and the flue temperatures respond to changes in the thermostat setting.

It can be counterintuitive, turning down the thermostat makes the cat meter go up because the catalyst has more smoke to eat when the firebox flames die off.

Especially in Washington with our softwoods, there’s a lot for the cat to eat so temperatures on that cat meter should be quite high. Especially with a fresh catalyst like you have.

I agree with BK. Ignore that cat meter other than to be sure it’s above the active line when the bypass is closed on a burning fire.
 
What are your stove top temps and flue temps?
The stovetop thermometer skyrockets to 4:00 and 5:00 and the flue is not getting too hot, it runs about 2-300
We have had Blaze Kings for years and one has never acted like this, can't get it figured out!
Thank you.
 
The stovetop thermometer skyrockets to 4:00 and 5:00 and the flue is not getting too hot, it runs about 2-300
We have had Blaze Kings for years and one has never acted like this, can't get it figured out!
Thank you.
Just to clarify, the catalyst thermometer is not stovetop temp. Is there a thermometer on the stovetop, independent of the catalyst thermometer?

Is the flue single or double-wall? Is the flue thermometer a surface magnetic thermometer or a probe thermometer?

One possibility is that the stove has developed an air leak where it is not readily visible. Corrosion behind the firebricks should be checked out. This will require removing all the bricks from the cold stove. Once they have been removed use a very bright light to inspect the interior for any holes or cracks. If this is done in a darkened room, have a helper watch outside for light leaks.
 
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Just to clarify, the catalyst thermometer is not stovetop temp. Is there a thermometer on the stovetop, independent of the catalyst thermometer?

Is the flue single or double-wall? Is the flue thermometer a surface magnetic thermometer or a probe thermometer?

One possibility is that the stove has developed an air leak where it is not readily visible. Corrosion behind the firebricks should be checked out. This will require removing all the bricks from the cold stove. Once they have been removed use a very bright light to inspect the interior for any holes or cracks. If this is done in a darkened room, have a helper watch outside for light leaks.
Right, yes, the catalytic thermometer is on top and is a 4-5:00
We don't have an independent thermometer, never have, never needed it.
Our flue is a single wall, stainless inside our 100 year old brick chimney and we clean it every year.
The flue thermometer is a surface magnetic.

We have always been able to adjust temps with the thermostat, now it does nothing! You can put the thermostat anywhere you like from maximum to minimum and it keeps getting hotter.
I guess an air leak is the only thing left. We'll let it go out again tonight and try the firebrick removal next.
Thank you for helping, it is so frustrating.
 
Right, yes, the catalytic thermometer is on top and is a 4-5:00
We don't have an independent thermometer, never have, never needed it.
Our flue is a single wall, stainless inside our 100 year old brick chimney and we clean it every year.
The flue thermometer is a surface magnetic.

We have always been able to adjust temps with the thermostat, now it does nothing! You can put the thermostat anywhere you like from maximum to minimum and it keeps getting hotter.
I guess an air leak is the only thing left. We'll let it go out again tonight and try the firebrick removal next.
Thank you for helping, it is so frustrating.
Also, it does flame up periodically hours after being loaded (never used to) as if air is getting in somehow. So, maybe there is a minute air leak like you suggest.
 
When you turn the thermostat knob to full hot does the knob stop hard pointing towards the ground?
 
Sounds like when I replace my cat with a new one, those cats sometimes act overactive pegging my probe needle at the 5 o'clock point for a couple weeks, especially when running on lower air settings. Sometimes the firebox is totally black, but the orange cat will light up the front of the box.
The best way to monitor these stoves is load it up, set the desired air setting, let it burn and just check the chimney stack occasionally for smoke, they should be nothing, or occasional whisps, plus burn times north of 12hrs on low settings is a good indicator of everything is working as it should.
These stoves are very interesting, my BK princess is 10yrs old now, all I've had to do was change the door gaskets and cats a few times, the stove has been rock solid and when its time to replace, I will be looking at another one.
 
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Sounds like when I replace my cat with a new one, those cats sometimes act overactive pegging my probe needle at the 5 o'clock point for a couple weeks, especially when running on lower air settings. Sometimes the firebox is totally black, but the orange cat will light up the front of the box.
The best way to monitor these stoves is load it up, set the desired air setting, let it burn and just check the chimney stack occasionally for smoke, they should be nothing, or occasional whisps, plus burn times north of 12hrs on low settings is a good indicator of everything is working as it should.
These stoves are very interesting, my BK princess is 10yrs old now, all I've had to do was change the door gaskets and cats a few times, the stove has been rock solid and when its time to replace, I will be looking at another one.
It has a brand new catalytic, door gaskets. We cannot set the air setting at all. It makes no difference whether it is wide open or closed the stove is hot. We also have loved Blaze King for the last 25 years! Now a problem that cannot be identified.
At this point all we can conclude is there must be a crack in the firebox somewhere that we cannot see of feel but is letting in air.
 
New Cat
Acceptable pipe temps that indicate zero overfire/overheat
Catalyst temp gauge in the 4 to 5 range
occasional flame/flare ups
Sounds like every time I install a new Cat.

How long has it been since you've installed a new Catalyst for behavior reference?

If you are worried or unsatisfied schedule a visit from a dealer tech to confirm stove function.

Anything is possible. Have it checked for reassurance or diagnoses.

Good luck!


Edit.... Just to confirm. It sounds like when you initially turn down the thermostat after startup/reload you are getting to zero/minor flame. Correct?
If you are unable to reduce flame to zero/near zero after a reload please let us know.
 
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YEAH!!!! The good news is there is (as suspected) an air leak in the back interior wall of the stove . After reading all the replies and suggestions that is the only conclusion I could come to and checking it once then twice didn't work but finally with a prodding poker I saw what appeared to be either creosote or a hole! Sure enough, with further poking there are 3 holes in the back right corner.

I do know how to run a Blaze King (done it for 25 years) and that is what was confusing! It was not operator error but faulty equipment.

I thank all of you for your willingness to help diagnose from afar (which of course isn't easy) and all the suggestions! So, bholler you win the prize for the answer!!!!

Terri
 
YEAH!!!! The good news is there is (as suspected) an air leak in the back interior wall of the stove . After reading all the replies and suggestions that is the only conclusion I could come to and checking it once then twice didn't work but finally with a prodding poker I saw what appeared to be either creosote or a hole! Sure enough, with further poking there are 3 holes in the back right corner.

I do know how to run a Blaze King (done it for 25 years) and that is what was confusing! It was not operator error but faulty equipment.

I thank all of you for your willingness to help diagnose from afar (which of course isn't easy) and all the suggestions! So, bholler you win the prize for the answer!!!!

Terri
Yey…. bholler for the win !!
 
YEAH!!!! The good news is there is (as suspected) an air leak in the back interior wall of the stove . After reading all the replies and suggestions that is the only conclusion I could come to and checking it once then twice didn't work but finally with a prodding poker I saw what appeared to be either creosote or a hole! Sure enough, with further poking there are 3 holes in the back right corner.

I do know how to run a Blaze King (done it for 25 years) and that is what was confusing! It was not operator error but faulty equipment.

I thank all of you for your willingness to help diagnose from afar (which of course isn't easy) and all the suggestions! So, bholler you win the prize for the answer!!!!

Terri

Oh jeez, another rotted out king? Please post the pictures for the benefit of future and prospective king owners.
 
Oh jeez, another rotted out king? Please post the pictures for the benefit of future and prospective king owners.
Man, I'd be real tempted to plaster that back wall with some furnace cement, see how it goes...