block off plate

[pepp]

hello all haven't posted in a while great site
insert regency i3100 getting installed ss liner and pipe should have been here in mid october
dealer said block off plate not needed
can anyone give some advice what to tell him or do
thanks

 

[jtp10181]

If the chimney is sealed at the top a block off plate is not required by code. It has to be sealed at either the top or bottom. Most flex kits have a top plate that seals it at the top.

If you are that interested in doing a block off plate you could either ask them how much extra it would cost, or ask if you can have one ready you made yourself and help install it.

We usually take some extra insulation wrap for the liner and stuff it in the damper area making an insulation block off plate of sorts.

 

[pepp]

thanks the dealer said the same think
iwas cocerned because everything i have been reading
mentions installing a block off plate and how important it is
for the best performance

 

[jtp10181]

I have read on here where people added one after the fact and seemed to notice more heat coming out into the room. I think it would be a good idea to do the kaowool insulation and the minimum. You should not use regular fiberglass insulation though because if it gets too hot it can melt or stink.

 

[pepp]

i will talk to the dealer and mention it friend of mine does heating and ac going to talk to him see if he has any suggestions or if he can make block of plate is their any websites or pictures

 

[jtp10181]

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/

 

[Shipper50]

I have the same insert and asked the dealer after install if he knew about block off plates. He said he never heard of them and he supposedly has been in the fireplace business for 30 years. I did find they stuffed insulation up in fireplace where the liner went up to the top.

The main thing I had against the dealer was he said it would heat my house with no problem, that was BS. I wound up buying a wood burning furnace and it made a big difference.

Shipper

 

[pepp]

thanks for the site and the info jtp
sorry to here that shipper i wil keep you posted how things work out
i am getting anxious

 

[bren582]

My impression is that the dealer/installer is more concerned with return on investment versus the best or most efficient installation. I'm not suggesting the job will not be done adequatly as I'm sure most dealer/installers would provide. I have no doubt that a full insulated liner and sealed top plate with a bundle of ceramic wool in the damper (Which only takes a minute to do versus hours for the metal version) will offer a pretty good solution and it's fast.. Installer done and on to the next job.

I chose to do my own install after several dealers quoted 800 to 1200 for a basic install as stated and increased dramatically if custom sheetmetal work was involved to build a metal blockoff plate or heat sheilding for exterior constructed chimney that we all know draw a significant amount of heat into the masonry and out of the house.. I don't blame them as we all have to make a living. If you can do it yourself and actaully enjoy the experience of emersing yourself in the job, I certainly do, the end result will be a better or shall I say more efficient solution. Even if this were not the case i for one can honestly say I have enjoyed the process so far.. Not done yet but so far so good..

 

[branchburner]

thanks the dealer said the same think
iwas cocerned because everything i have been reading
mentions installing a block off plate and how important it is
for the best performance

Exterior or interior chimney? Many folks say block-off optional for interior, but very imortant for exterior chimney to prevent heat loss, creosote, poor draft etc. That said, plenty do without them. (How well they do, I couldn't say.)

 

[pepp]

exterior masonery chimney

 

[branchburner]

Forgot to ask, also, is your liner insulated? That would also be suggested by many as well.

Even if you don't do a tight fitting, perfectly sealed blockoff, I'd think some sheet metal would be a good addition to the insulation - would help minimize potential airflow.

 

[cruzer]

Here is my experience -

I have a stove stuck in my fire place, interior chimney but not blocked off at the top due to chimney design (4 flues that end at the roof line, chimney goes up another 4ft open). I ran it for 2 weeks with a block off plate not SEALED above the stove - couldn't get any heat out of the stove - wouldn't really heat my house, was very disappointed, even tried blowing air across the top of the stove and back out the fireplace, worked ok but not great - still dissapointed. I finaly got some furnace cement and sealed up all the gaps nice and tight - what a HUGE deiffrence. Now the hot air has no were to go but out of the fireplace into the room. Actualy works to heat my house now.

SS

 

[pepp]

yes the liner is insulated chimney 20'

 

[branchburner]

Here is my experience -

I have a stove stuck in my fire place, interior chimney but not blocked off at the top due to chimney design (4 flues that end at the roof line, chimney goes up another 4ft open). I ran it for 2 weeks with a block off plate not SEALED above the stove - couldn't get any heat out of the stove - wouldn't really heat my house, was very disappointed, even tried blowing air across the top of the stove and back out the fireplace, worked ok but not great - still dissapointed. I finaly got some furnace cement and sealed up all the gaps nice and tight - what a HUGE deiffrence. Now the hot air has no were to go but out of the fireplace into the room. Actualy works to heat my house now.

SS

Yeah, good to seal top and bottom both if possible, but at least one for sure or the hot air is going to shoot right up and out.
I just noticed a huge draft of warm air coming up and out my fireplace flue, even with a decent metal damper seal below. Obviously not close to being airtight - going to go with a top-seal damper there.