Blower/fan outage

[Savvytravvy]

My partner and I bought a 1965 ranch with what I assume the original wood burning insert. Our home does not have a furnace and this wonderful thing will run you out of a room with its heat

HOWEVER... my dreams came to a screeching and I meaning screeching halt when the fan/blower just gave out. It had been making some noises for some time but normally would work out it’s kinks and do just fine but now.... now it’s unbearable.

Anyone know anything at all about replacing or fixing. Help. Please. Thank you!

 

[MTY]

If the fan is not completely dead, grease it. It probably needed grease months or years ago.

 

[Savvytravvy]

If the fan is not completely dead, grease it. It probably needed grease months or years ago.

We are not sure how to get to the fan.

 

[Corey]

Agree with MTY - the fan probably has almost zero starting torque, so it's possible that a little bit of grease/oil on the bearing/bushings could get it working again. As far as access - not sure for that specific model. Are there any access plates on the front? I see screws on the brass vents,(?) Might start by pulling those and see what you can see. Though the fan would typically be in the lower portion of the stove. Any panel on the front/lower section? Not sure why it looks like an optical illusion in the photo, or is the front / hearth area really cut at a weird angle to the rest of the stove?

Worst case, you might have to pull the unit out if the fan happens to be at the lower / back section. A wider angle photo might help. Also be cautious if that is the original 'slammer' install, venting directly into the old fireplace chimney. You can read up on that and decide how to handle for future use.

 

[Savvytravvy]

Sorry for the poor original photo. I really didn’t know if anyone would respond. Here’s some updated ones. We took off all of the plates that we could and you kinda of see that in the original photo I uploaded which resulted in the optical illusion Lol. It’s a plate on the brick. Any way. Here’s some more photos.

 

[coaly]

Many older blower motors have oil holes on top that lubricate the bushings. They should be oiled yearly and cleaned. Dust will collect on blower or fan blades as well. Most of these motors are A/O or Air Over, meaning they have air ventilation ports for cooling air to cool motor. When accessed, vacuum entire cavity the blower is installed in and outlet vents. Oil and spin by hand before trying. Newer blowers sometimes have sealed bearings that you can’t lubricate and need to be replaced when they wear out. That’s why you take care of older equipment since it’s better than what you buy in many cases today. Woodman's Associates has many replacement blowers to choose from. CFM and variable speed is important.

 

[begreen]

Looks like the insert may need to be pulled to access the blower.

 

[coaly]

If you never removed the Insert or had it professionally cleaned, it is imperative to find out if this is connected to a stainless liner that extends to top of chimney. Removing the upper hearth face cover should expose the liner connected to Insert. If it is installed into the fireplace using the existing fireplace flue it is against code and needs a liner installed. These units were designed to slide into fireplace using the existing large flue. This allows hot flue gases to expand and cool creating creosote hazard. Time has proven this to be a bad practice and is now code requiring direct connection of liner the same size as Insert outlet.

 

[Savvytravvy]

Here’s what it looks like without the upper hearth face. Inside it looks like something metal does go up but I’m not sure if you can see it in the photos.

 

[Corey]

Agree with all the above comments. Specifically on the motor - looks like you found the control box, possibly a motor run capacitor - and where ever those wires lead will eventually lead to the motor itself.

So two options at this point... go in after the motor, or take a closer look at the capacitor.

Going after the motor would mean taking off / pulling out whatever is in the way of getting to the motor itself. Don't know if there is still space or a way to access the motor that you see from the outside?

On the capacitor, you'd need to disassemble the electric box, disconnect the capacitor and check it. They can go bad over time and cause erratic (or no) motor operation. You'd need a meter capable of checking capacitance, to make sure it's in the ballpark of what ever value is printed on the can. Or if there is any type of local appliance / HVAC / motor repair shop, you might be able to take it in and they could test it, and sell a replacement if it is bad.

 

[Savvytravvy]

Ok. So we got it out finally. There was a bolt that was holding the flue onto the oven and it had rusted together. Here is the unit that we have to Replace.

 

[begreen]

Does the fan blade spin freely and easily? If so, take the start capacitor to a motor shop and have them check it out. That is possibly what has failed.