I recenty refinished an old fisher stove that was left to rust away in a fellas woods. Sanded down new paint and firebrick she looks good as new. I inserted into my existing fireplace because the wife declined buulding out some for free standing. Right now i have a fan that blows behind oneside and pushed the heat out the other. Anyone have any ideas for installing a blower on this thing? I have about 4 inchs on each side as well as 4 inch behind the stove. Any ideas?
Blower for fisher gma bear
- Thread starter Indianaman12
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I would not suggest doing that with any Fisher Stove.
How much clearance for air flow at the top??
Trade it for an Insert?
You have a radiant heater and need a convection heater.
When the power goes down you still have gravity flow and cook top with an Insert. One just sold locally here for $150 with blower. A good blower will cost you much more than that.
You can line the fireplace with metal to make an air chamber between stove and masonry, then move the air out to heat the air instead of masonry. It takes a LOT of CFM for a blower to do that. It will probably take two, then you have the noise.....
The blower for Grandma was mounted on the bottom of rear shield of the Grandma IV. The rear shield has a curl at the top to direct air over top forward. That would at least cool the back and top. Still going to get way too hot for the blower mounted there in your case. You want cold air from the floor pushed under the stove so it extracts heat from the hottest part of the stove around the outlet pipe. It WILL fatigue crack around that pipe if you don't install a baffle plate inside.
Response from the builder at Fisher Stoves S.E.
""Many people wanted to cut the legs off to set them on the hearth to go into a fireplace. It was always said that there needed to be a min of 3" clearance around the stove for air flow. There are 2 problems with putting a stove to close to the concrete wall. ! if it is to close it will retain the heat so if when the top and sides start to cool down the back will not. There have been isolated cases where uneven cooling caused cracking. It was more common if a freestanding stove was installed, modified to make it an insert. The second issue would be extreme heat could cause spauling of the concrete wall which is flaking or chipping of the concrete.""
You can view his original response in post #10 here;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-to-woodstove-heating-fisher-papa-bear.71552/#post-902932
How much clearance for air flow at the top??
Trade it for an Insert?
You have a radiant heater and need a convection heater.
When the power goes down you still have gravity flow and cook top with an Insert. One just sold locally here for $150 with blower. A good blower will cost you much more than that.
You can line the fireplace with metal to make an air chamber between stove and masonry, then move the air out to heat the air instead of masonry. It takes a LOT of CFM for a blower to do that. It will probably take two, then you have the noise.....
The blower for Grandma was mounted on the bottom of rear shield of the Grandma IV. The rear shield has a curl at the top to direct air over top forward. That would at least cool the back and top. Still going to get way too hot for the blower mounted there in your case. You want cold air from the floor pushed under the stove so it extracts heat from the hottest part of the stove around the outlet pipe. It WILL fatigue crack around that pipe if you don't install a baffle plate inside.
Response from the builder at Fisher Stoves S.E.
""Many people wanted to cut the legs off to set them on the hearth to go into a fireplace. It was always said that there needed to be a min of 3" clearance around the stove for air flow. There are 2 problems with putting a stove to close to the concrete wall. ! if it is to close it will retain the heat so if when the top and sides start to cool down the back will not. There have been isolated cases where uneven cooling caused cracking. It was more common if a freestanding stove was installed, modified to make it an insert. The second issue would be extreme heat could cause spauling of the concrete wall which is flaking or chipping of the concrete.""
You can view his original response in post #10 here;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-to-woodstove-heating-fisher-papa-bear.71552/#post-902932
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