Blown fuse issues on Harman, Breckwell, Englander, or any stove.

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Harvey, my stove currently does not have one. I bought it used and realized someone placed a jumper in its place. :(
 
One thing to watch one the fuses, Some controllers are rated for 240V and so is the fuse. So when you try to get a replacement local. You might only find a 120V fuse. Both maybe rated for 6 amps. But guess what the 120V will do?

Poof.
 
I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...
 
I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...

Smokeys right! Poof. Almost tossed the board thinking it was toast after checking every circuit(2x) and popped the fuse on start up. Took a look at the old fuse and saw the 250V rating. Also saw a number on it and hit digikey. Order a few and was in business as soon as the new ones arrived. Just passing it on so you all don't have less hair! Be sure you have the correct fuse!
 
I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...
A 240 rated fuse is fine on a 120 circuit. A 120 rated fuse should not be used on a 240V circuit. The Voltage rating has to do with the ability of the fuse to quench the arc that occurs when the fuse blows. If the fuse is under-rated on Voltage it may not extinguish the current as quickly. This is less of a problem on AC than on DC because the Voltage drops to zero 120 times per second giving the arc an opportunity to stop. Personally I wouldn't do it. One should never use low Voltage fuses (like 24V fuses) on line Voltage circuits.
Harvey, my stove currently does not have one. I bought it used and realized someone placed a jumper in its place.
Go to Radio Shack and buy some. You might even be able to get them at HD.
 
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Harvey said it better than I did - that's what I was trying for.
 
And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?
And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?
Energizing a cartridge heater generally does not stress out the core since it is heating from the center out evenly. However, many stoves take cooler air over the element unevenly and during the cooling phase one side of the element is slightly cooler than the other which causes the element to bent and ultimately break. And I will add that 9 out of 10 times when a fuse blows during startup it is the igniter which is to blame.
 
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