Bought a used blaze king

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bumblebeetuna96

New Member
Mar 17, 2018
27
USA
Bought a used stove. Looks to be in great condition butfl for piece of mind Id like to do some maintenance. I plan on replacing cat and door seal (seems worn). Not sure where to purchase a cat (my closest dealer just closed) but besides the two is there anything else I should replace? Also need to install an outside air vent as I plan to do an alcove install.

Thanks!

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Firecatcombustors.com are good and so is condar
 

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Door gasket and window gasket is a must, double check and make sure there high density gaskets. Test the baffle gasket using the door bill test, you can also adjust the by-pass handle to make it tighter and looser.
Remember to use double wall pipe, no 90's just 45's if you need to make a bend for a thru the wall install. These stoves have cooler emissions so the double is need to keep the emissions warmer.
You can take the cover off the rear t-stat control box, (do not handle the t-stat or try to make adjustments) but you can put a little bit of hi temp lube to keep things fluid.
 
What model did you get? Have a picture?
 
Its a blaze king ultra. The only issue is that the damper handle doesn't stay on. I think I may need to tap and thread a set screw. So if I understand correctly the glass and the door have their own separate gaskets and the damper has a gasket internally? Do the gaskets have part numbers? I'm also considering putting fresh black paint on it being that it isn't installed yet and I could spray it outside. [Hearth.com] Bought a used blaze king
 
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The bypass handle doesn’t attach but isn’t supposed to randomly fall off either. My wife accidentally pulled it off when she was using it and thought she had broken it.

The door gasket is adjustable by tightening the latch. I would change any gaskets unless they failed testing. The bypass gasket is particularly difficult and unlikely to need replacement.
 
You don't have to rip the dollar(criminal offence:)) just make sure you can't pull it out
 
There's a gasket on the bypass door internally too (you should be able to see it from the top through the flue collar before you put the pipe on).

The loading door gasket is the most likely to fail, and replacing it before you start may be a good idea.

I probably wouldn't mess with the glass gasket unless it appears to have issues.

As for the bypass gasket... close the bypass and see if it seals tightly all the way around. It may not need to be replaced either.

I would guess that most people never replace the glass and bypass gaskets during the life of the stove (although the bypass gasket probably needs it by then).
 
There's a gasket on the bypass door internally too (you should be able to see it from the top through the flue collar before you put the pipe on).

The loading door gasket is the most likely to fail, and replacing it before you start may be a good idea.

I probably wouldn't mess with the glass gasket unless it appears to have issues.

As for the bypass gasket... close the bypass and see if it seals tightly all the way around. It may not need to be replaced either.

I would guess that most people never replace the glass and bypass gaskets during the life of the stove (although the bypass gasket probably needs it by then).
So theres two on the bypass? I'm thinking it would be easiest now since it isn't hooked up. I'm finding mixed answers on which gaskets to purchase and manual says to have pro do it. I'm pretty mechanical but don't it seems like theres mixed answers on which gaskets to purchase and how to secure them.

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There is just one gasket for the bypass, it sits on the frame side not on the bypass plate. It is adjustable, do 1/4 turn to the adjustment screw and recheck tension with a dollar bill test. You can use $100.00 bill if you want.;)
It doesn't need to have the same tension as when you do the test on the door. You just want a little of resistance when you pull it. If too loose/easy to pull the bill, turn the screw another 1/4 turn and recheck. It has a security nut that needs to be loose before turn the screw and retight after the adjustment.
 
The bypass handle doesn’t attach but isn’t supposed to randomly fall off either. My wife accidentally pulled it off when she was using it
What the..?? ;hm
 
It’s made to slip right off, it won’t ever slip off unless you want it to. First time I’ve pulled mine off in 8 years for this picture. :)

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I've had mine "work off" once or twice, this was my fault as sometimes when I disengage I do it a little to forceful (its a hereditary problem, got it from my grandmother who went to Atlantic City a lot) I just tap it inward every once in a while, not a big issues at all.
Any chance your going to install a oak?
 
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I think he meant an outside air kit. OAK.
Yah...I know...was being a smart ash...just one of my many special services...all provided for free. ;lol :p :rolleyes: ;hm
 
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I would do the bypass gasket since it's easy to do before its installed then you dont have to worry about it for a long time. Stove looks to be in good shape.
 
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Yes on the OAK. I had another thread asking about it. I'm doing an alcove an BKs paperwork requires it. The manual I downloaded implies that the kit needs to go through the floor, but I'm going straight out the wall behind.
 

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Its a blaze king ultra. The only issue is that the damper handle doesn't stay on. I think I may need to tap and thread a set screw. So if I understand correctly the glass and the door have their own separate gaskets and the damper has a gasket internally? Do the gaskets have part numbers? I'm also considering putting fresh black paint on it being that it isn't installed yet and I could spray it outside. View attachment 239198

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Nice! What does the combuster look like? I would swap it out if the history of it is unknown..the damper handle should be a none issue...I use slight inward pressure when I use mine and it doesnt come off...