Briggs and Stratton Sheared Muffler Bolt.

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EatenByLimestone

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I picked up a 5hp B&S;horizontal shaft motor for $5. I got it working and running well, but sheared off a muffler bolt in the process. I can't seem to drill it out as the bolt left a dome and my drill bit seems to slide off it into the soft surrounding metal. Can I use stove cement to help seal where the good bolt doesn't hold?

Matt
 
ebl,

Sharpen up a punch to make a center punch. Center punch the bolt a couple times to get a good center mark then take a small drill bit (1/8") and drill a pilot hole then step up to a size that a ez out with fit. but don't break it off! You will probably need some heat so keep the propane torch or heat gun handy. If that don't work drill it out as far as possible not to damage the threads and you can pick out the remaining pieces, not the most fun but it will work.

This might be another option. some briggs had the exhaust port threaded (pipe thread) to attach mufflers.
 
use a cobalt drillbit to drill thru the bolt. take your time , and like garnification said use some heat to help with the extraction. :coolsmile:
 
Grind the domed part of the broken bolt flat, if you don't have a hand grinder use a file. Once it is flat center punch the broken bolt, drill out, and use a EZ out to extract. Use heat, bee's wax helps when using heat. Worst case drill out and re-tap oversized, if oversized bolt is not an option use heli-coil.
 
clarkharms said:
Grind the domed part of the broken bolt flat, if you don't have a hand grinder use a file. Once it is flat center punch the broken bolt, drill out, and use a EZ out to extract. Use heat, bee's wax helps when using heat. Worst case drill out and re-tap oversized, if oversized bolt is not an option use heli-coil.

What he said. As a last ditch effort, you can weld a nut to the bolt (smaller nut than the bolt), let it all cool off then heat around the bolt (limit the heat to the bolt...that defeats the purpose) and turn it out with a socket/end wrench. If that doesn't work, then proceed to the helicoil method.
 
woodconvert said:
clarkharms said:
Grind the domed part of the broken bolt flat, if you don't have a hand grinder use a file. Once it is flat center punch the broken bolt, drill out, and use a EZ out to extract. Use heat, bee's wax helps when using heat. Worst case drill out and re-tap oversized, if oversized bolt is not an option use heli-coil.

What he said. As a last ditch effort, you can weld a nut to the bolt (smaller nut than the bolt), let it all cool off then heat around the bolt (limit the heat to the bolt...that defeats the purpose) and turn it out with a socket/end wrench. If that doesn't work, then proceed to the helicoil method.

I have never had much luck with EZ-outs. When it can be done, welding a nut to the broken bolt works like a charm.
 
I have never had much luck with EZ-outs. When it can be done, welding a nut to the broken bolt works like a charm.

Yeah, I never have much luck with em' either but I know people that swear by them. Whatever works.
 
First choice, weld a hex nut on. or Weld a flat washer onto the stub if only flush with surface. Then weld the hex nut to that. Let is all cool throughly before trying, else the heated bolt may be wedged tighter than when it started.

If you can find some left hand drill bits, they work well. punch, drill the pilot hole, then use larger bits. Often the bit will snag and the left hand direction brings the stub out. Or the left hand vibration seems to loosen in the right direction. Eventually, the shell is thin enough to pick it out or use an extractor. Basic EZ outs seems to wedge the bolt outward in place too much because of the taper. Find the kind that has a lot of small spiral teeth but a square shoulder that hits the end of broken bolt. They turn into place then stop the outward wedging action. Mine are 40 yrs old, but try Snapon or Matco or someone.
 
Welding a nut on is a great way provided there is a welder available and someone who knows how to weld.
 
clarkharms said:
Welding a nut on is a great way provided there is a welder available and someone who knows how to weld.

easy deal!!


another option is to take it to a machine shop and have them machine it out, check the phone book for a small local shop, but I would try the drill and easy out first
 
I took a look at the muffler today and it's pretty well shot. There is a loose flap in back that shouldn't be there and something rattles around inside it too. I took a little muffler cement and cemented the back. Since the bolt was toast I cemented it in too. I figured I had nothing to loose from playing with it.

The single bolt and the little flange that goes into the block seem to work. If I have to drill it out I will but right now the single bolt is working. The cemented back didn't hold but the cemented bolt did. The engine is quieter. I'll be picking up a new muffler tomorrow.

Matt
 
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