Building a Chimney in a Metal Shed for Pandemic Brewery Seating

[AGFresh]

So I wanted to run this by some enthusiasts before moving forward to see what info I could glean. I have built myself a double barrel stove with the top barrel functioning as a heat exchanger (2" tubes running through it). I'm on a 65-acre property and opening a brewery this winter in the middle of the pandemic. We have a 30'x60' metal shed with a stone floor next to our small taproom and I would like to remove one of the shed walls and use the barrel stove to heat it up for temporary outdoor drinking space. I plan to run Single Wall Pipe up to a Stovepipe Adapter to the Class A pipe. The Class A pipe will run through the single tin roof layer, with either adjustable flashing OR a high temp rubber boot over the top of it, then covered with a storm collar, and chimney cap. The entire chimney will be about 10-11' in height and will be 2'-3' over the roof peak. The Class A pipe will not have any kind of ceiling support kit other than some aluminum strips bent up and tapped into it and the inside of the roof.

Does this seem sound enough? I know it's not code but we need to take the bite off of our cold weather and get the doors open finally before we can afford to throw any money at our outdoor seating areas. Let me know if anyone has suggestions or specifically had any experience with these High Temp Rubber Boots (which are new to me). Thanks!

 

[bholler]

So I wanted to run this by some enthusiasts before moving forward to see what info I could glean. I have built myself a double barrel stove with the top barrel functioning as a heat exchanger (2" tubes running through it). I'm on a 65-acre property and opening a brewery this winter in the middle of the pandemic. We have a 30'x60' metal shed with a stone floor next to our small taproom and I would like to remove one of the shed walls and use the barrel stove to heat it up for temporary outdoor drinking space. I plan to run Single Wall Pipe up to a Stovepipe Adapter to the Class A pipe. The Class A pipe will run through the single tin roof layer, with either adjustable flashing OR a high temp rubber boot over the top of it, then covered with a storm collar, and chimney cap. The entire chimney will be about 10-11' in height and will be 2'-3' over the roof peak. The Class A pipe will not have any kind of ceiling support kit other than some aluminum strips bent up and tapped into it and the inside of the roof.

Does this seem sound enough? I know it's not code but we need to take the bite off of our cold weather and get the doors open finally before we can afford to throw any money at our outdoor seating areas. Let me know if anyone has suggestions or specifically had any experience with these High Temp Rubber Boots (which are new to me). Thanks!

So this is for a commercial application?

 

[mcdougy]

I think you might hear some comments regarding your stove set up......but in regards to the high temp rubber boot for the insulated pipe, they are the way to go on a steel roof, much easier to install and fit around the metal roof profile(ribs) very well. You will need blocking where the boot screws into the roof metal. This can be done from inside the attic generally if you have the height to work. Just running metal roofing screws thru the metal won't cut it, the screws need to go thru the boot and roof metal then into some wood blocking. If there is plywood under the roof sheets you are probably ok. The screws need to bite into something.

 

[SpaceBus]

I'm not sure I understand, but it seems like you are assuming that metal strips can support 12' of class A chimney pipe. You are better off using a cathedral ceiling support. Class A chimney is quite heavy and needs a serious support. Aluminum strips will not work.

 

[AGFresh]

I think you might hear some comments regarding your stove set up......but in regards to the high temp rubber boot for the insulated pipe, they are the way to go on a steel roof, much easier to install and fit around the metal roof profile(ribs) very well. You will need blocking where the boot screws into the roof metal. This can be done from inside the attic generally if you have the height to work. Just running metal roofing screws thru the metal won't cut it, the screws need to go thru the boot and roof metal then into some wood blocking. If there is plywood under the roof sheets you are probably ok. The screws need to bite into something.

Great advice thank you!

 

[AGFresh]

I'm not sure I understand, but it seems like you are assuming that metal strips can support 12' of class A chimney pipe. You are better off using a cathedral ceiling support. Class A chimney is quite heavy and needs a serious support. Aluminum strips will not work.

Also great advice! I have 2x6's supporting the metal roof so I have only 6" of structural depth to create a support with/ fit a ceiling support into. . But I could probably fashion something together that's insulated and has the appropriate clearances. Has anyone fashioned their own ceiling support for such a roof?

 

[mcdougy]

Be mindul of required clearances of your blocking to the pipe.

 

[bholler]

I absolutely cannot stand the rubber boot flashing. Get the proper metal flashing and install it correctly and you will never have to deal with it again. In addition just install a support. If you don't you will probably have to just redo it again properly in a year or two.

 

[AGFresh]

I absolutely cannot stand the rubber boot flashing. Get the proper metal flashing and install it correctly and you will never have to deal with it again. In addition just install a support. If you don't you will probably have to just redo it again properly in a year or two.

Hoping to only need this setup for a year or two, but would you still advise me to stay away from the boot? What's wrong with them?

 

[bholler]

Hoping to only need this setup for a year or two, but would you still advise me to stay away from the boot? What's wrong with them?

They only rely on adhesive to keep water out. And they break down. I will always advise anyone to stay away from them.

You say you know it's not to code but if you are opening a legitimate brewery with a tap room you will need to pass inspections

 

[mcdougy]

They only rely on adhesive to keep water out. And they break down. I will always advise anyone to stay away from them.

On a metal roof what do you do to close the rib that has been cut with a "standard" metal flashing?

 

[AGFresh]

They only rely on adhesive to keep water out. And they break down. I will always advise anyone to stay away from them.

You say you know it's not to code but if you are opening a legitimate brewery with a tap room you will need to pass inspections

It's being applied for with the SLA as a temporary COVID outdoor structure with open sides. It's almost all metal and stone, and neither the barrel stove nor the uninsulated building would be to code, no. However, if we are temporary, winter, outdoor seating with open sides, then I see no difference between a barrel stove and an open fire pit honestly. Again, we just need it to work for a few months max. After that, we have an entire "Beer Meadow" to move into.

 

[SpaceBus]

I think you will be much better off in cost and time to simply get some outdoor propane heaters.

 

[snaple4]

Can you put the money towards building a brick fireplace/pizza oven. This would benefit your “beer meadow “ for the winter months when everything finally settles down. Otherwise, I second the propane heaters. Portable, safe, lots of adjustable heat, and easy to refill. Ventilation is the only main concern I would have.

 

[SpaceBus]

Maybe even those heaters you see the cashier using at the Lowe's garden center checkout kiosk placed at each table would work better than the barrel stove, much safer, and probably more cost efficient. Class A chimney pipe is quite expensive and then you have to factor in the time you spend processing wood all day to feed a barrel stove all day that will warm only the people standing within 10' of it. There will also be a ton of smoke that will sink down to ground level on calm days (the ones more likely to have visitors) and unless you are burning cherry, cedar, or a few other species that smoke will smell horrible.