Building a fireplace around a wood burning stove

[jim M]

Hi,

We have a burner (pic below) I estimate it was installed 3 / 4 years ago. I believe to a good standard.
We would like to change the look to a 'wood burner in a fire place' look.
I assume the black pipe would need to be replaced with the stainless steel double walled pipe (which is currently used above the ceiling line.
could I create a chimney breast using fire board ? or would it need to be brick / rendered block ?

We would like to achieve a look similar to the 2nd picture I have added (but without the wooden beam)

Also inside the Chimney 'Im thinking of creating' will this need to be large enough to access the flue in the future or should it be sealed with a steel registry plate ?
Any advice would be greatly received.



Many thanks
Jim

 

[begreen]

The requirements in the UK will differ from here in the states, but there will be some issues to resolve such as clearances for the pipe and the stove and the hearth requirements. The current installation looks very close to the wall. Is this a completely non-combustible wall (stucco or plaster on stone or masonry) or a conventional drywall board wall?

 

[Zack R]

Have you considered building a hearth and adding brick to resemble something like this?

 

[jim M]

The requirements in the UK will differ from here in the states, but there will be some issues to resolve such as clearances for the pipe and the stove and the hearth requirements. The current installation looks very close to the wall. Is this a completely non-combustible wall (stucco or plaster on stone or masonry) or a conventional drywall board wall?

Hi thanks for your response, the back wall is 9 inch solid brickwork, rendered then plastered

cheers
Jim

 

[jim M]

Have you considered building a hearth and adding brick to resemble something like this?

View attachment 243162 View attachment 243163

Hi thanks for your input, i think we are settled on the chimney breast design... unless it is not possible, but thanks again for your suggestions.
cheers
Jim

 

[begreen]

It may be possible as long as the construction is entirely non-combustible. If the chimney support is lowered then a metal fire stop at the ceiling level should be installed. The nuts and bolts of the project are best discussed with someone local that is experienced with this type of installation. Also, find out the governing rules from the inspecting authority.

 

[jim M]

It may be possible as long as the construction is entirely non-combustible. If the chimney support is lowered then a metal fire stop at the ceiling level should be installed. The nuts and bolts of the project are best discussed with someone local that is experienced with this type of installation. Also, find out the governing rules from the inspecting authority.

Hi,
Thanks for advice, will do that.
cheers
Jim

 

[byQ]

That's unusual that you would have such a thick masonry wall behind that stove. What about the floor? I ask because that will determine what kind of weight you can put on it, the floor. And if it isn't too strong, is there a way to do reinforcing below the floor, say with beams/steel? If not maybe you could do a real looking 'fake' fireplace that had no real weight at its core.

 

[jim M]

That's unusual that you would have such a thick masonry wall behind that stove. What about the floor? I ask because that will determine what kind of weight you can put on it, the floor. And if it isn't too strong, is there a way to do reinforcing below the floor, say with beams/steel? If not maybe you could do a real looking 'fake' fireplace that had no real weight at its core.

Hi, Thanks for your reply, yeah the wall is 9inch solid brick rendered and plastered on both side, Its in the center of the house so i guess its bearing a lot of weight, the floor is solid, concrete then screed so building in solid block or brick would be ok.. your idea 'real looking fake fireplace' interests me... as id prefer not to be bricklaying in my front room if possible.
thanks again for your help
jim

 

[byQ]

I'm no expert, but you could build a core fireplace out of perlite/vermiculite concrete (ie build your wood forms, mix the mud, and pour into forms). Or you could be more conventional and just use lumber/plywood/cement board. Your outer layer could be tile, engineered stone, flagstone, etc....

 

[begreen]

I'm no expert, but you could build a core fireplace out of perlite/vermiculite concrete (ie build your wood forms, mix the mud, and pour into forms). Or you could be more conventional and just use lumber/plywood/cement board. Your outer layer could be tile, engineered stone, flagstone, etc....

I would not build this out of plywood and lumber. They are combustible and would not honor the stove clearance requirements. Metal studs and cement board would be a safer framework and base for the final treatment (tile, brick, stone, etc.).

 

[jim M]

I would not build this out of plywood and lumber. They are combustible and would not honor the stove clearance requirements. Metal studs and cement board would be a safer framework and base for the final treatment (tile, brick, stone, etc.).

Hi thanks, yeah will look into the metal studs idea.
thanks for your help
Jim

 

[jim M]

I'm no expert, but you could build a core fireplace out of perlite/vermiculite concrete (ie build your wood forms, mix the mud, and pour into forms). Or you could be more conventional and just use lumber/plywood/cement board. Your outer layer could be tile, engineered stone, flagstone, etc....

thanks for your help
Jim

 

[begreen]

Hi thanks, yeah will look into the metal studs idea.
thanks for your help
Jim

They come in various grades. Use the heavier gauge material.

 

[Ashful]

Metal studs, masonry board, stucco or stone veneer. I’ve seen several chimney chases done this way, but with diligent selection of materials, there’s no reason a non-combustible fireplace facsimile couldn’t be made the same way.

Is this DIY? Even if so, I’d follow begreen’s advice, get a local involved, particularly what we call the “authority with jurisdiction.” You don’t want to get to the end of the project, and then find you’re condemned to tear it out.

Keep us posted on research, decisions, progress photos. We love photos.

 

[jim M]

Metal studs, masonry board, stucco or stone veneer. I’ve seen several chimney chases done this way, but with diligent selection of materials, there’s no reason a non-combustible fireplace facsimile couldn’t be made the same way.

Is this DIY? Even if so, I’d follow begreen’s advice, get a local involved, particularly what we call the “authority with jurisdiction.” You don’t want to get to the end of the project, and then find you’re condemned to tear it out.

Keep us posted on research, decisions, progress photos. We love photos.

Hi,
Thanks for your post,
I have spoken to a local builder about constructing it in solid blocks then plastering, he is going to quote me for this.
I'll also make contact with a local stove company with regard to altering the flue and insuring I'm fulfilling regulations.
I have found the below image online which Im hoping will work for me.

thanks again to all for the input you have all given.

I'll keep you posted on progress.
cheers
Jim

 

[Ashful]

Hi,
Thanks for your post,
I have spoken to a local builder about constructing it in solid blocks then plastering, he is going to quote me for this.
I'll also make contact with a local stove company with regard to altering the flue and insuring I'm fulfilling regulations.
I have found the below image online which Im hoping will work for me.

thanks again to all for the input you have all given.

I'll keep you posted on progress.
cheers
Jim

One thing I will say, as a guy who has had two different stove models installed in each of my two fireplaces... if you build it out of solid masonry and it is connected to a solid masonry wall with exterior exposure, you have the potential to dump a lot of your heat outside. A radiant stove (think traditional cast model) will do a great job of heating that masonry via radiation, which will do a reasonably good job of conducting that to the outside face, where it can be carried off by radiation and convection (wind). If you do this, you’d better consider stoves that put minimal radiant heat off the sides and back, such as a cast-clad steel stove (eg. PE Alderlea, BK Ashford).

The advantage of the masonry board and steel stud construction I mention above is that there is minimal thermal condition from those interior surfaces to the exposed exterior masonry.

 

[jim M]

One thing I will say, as a guy who has had two different stove models installed in each of my two fireplaces... if you build it out of solid masonry and it is connected to a solid masonry wall with exterior exposure, you have the potential to dump a lot of your heat outside. A radiant stove (think traditional cast model) will do a great job of heating that masonry via radiation, which will do a reasonably good job of conducting that to the outside face, where it can be carried off by radiation and convection (wind). If you do this, you’d better consider stoves that put minimal radiant heat off the sides and back, such as a cast-clad steel stove (eg. PE Alderlea, BK Ashford).

The advantage of the masonry board and steel stud construction I mention above is that there is minimal thermal condition from those interior surfaces to the exposed exterior masonry.

Thanks, a good point, fortunately its an internal wall, the other side is the hallway with staircase leading upstairs so any heat coming through would be of benefit.

Im not sure what the stove is i have will take a look at the info plate when i get home and add it here

thanks
Jim

 

[Ashful]

Yes, in that case, going with solid masonry would be an advantage. It would convert any radiant stove to a pseudo-masonry heater, adding some capacitance to level the output over the course of the burn. The masonry can soak up some fraction of the stove’s output at peak burn, and continue to conduct it into the home as the fire wanes and the stove cools.