building a long valance

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RustyShackleford

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 6, 2009
1,395
NC
I have just built an addition to my house, a study, with the help of a friend who is a carpenter. Just got certificate of occupancy yesterday (!!) but there is some interior stuff left to do.

Main thing I want to do is to built a valance along each of two opposite walls of the room. These would run the entire length of the wall and be attached to the neighboring walls at each end. Each would be T-shaped. A vertical piece, maybe 8-9" tall, would run across the room; there'd be a horizontal piece between the wall and the vertical piece. So the cross-section would be a "T" lying on its side. Basically each valance would be a long shelf, with a band at the outer edge of the shelf that extends several inches above and below the shelf. The band serves to hide what's on the shelf and to support the outer edge of the shelf. One valance would be 15+ft long and about 1ft wide, the other about 13ft long and about 2ft wide. I'd have (broken link removed) for diffuse room illumination on top of the shelf, and attach task downlighting to the bottom of the shelf.

Hoping I've explained the basic design in a comprehensible way, here's my question. What should I build the vertical member from ? It not only needs to support itself across the entire 13/15ft width of the room, but it needs to support one edge (so half the weight) of the horizontal piece. The horizontal piece is less critical and would probably just be 3/8" plywood, and wouldn't carrying a lot of weight, mainly just the lights I mentioned.

At first I thought I would use 2x10 clear fir, but the local lumber yard that can get the fir says 2x10 would be hard or impossible to get. Carpenter recommended radiata pine, but again, as a wood primarily used for trim, it does not seem to be available in 2x10. Current plan is to use plywood. Of course plywood doesn't come in the length I need, so I'd glue & screw a sandwich of two pieces of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood (with the joints staggered), with a 1-by band along the top and bottom edges. Plywood also means I'd have to probably give up my plan to have a wood finish, and paint it instead - but I think I'm ok with that.

Anyhow, does anyone have a better suggestion than plywood ? Failing that, what kind of plywood should I use ? Thanks much !
 
two thoughts
1) around here we have a good amount of mills, I contacted one and told them I needed true 2x8 for my balcony railing and they made it for me, no big deal possible option
2) glue up some 1x boards staggering joint etc. then trim to size, will be more stable then one piece, less likely to twist or warp.
 
I'd say you have two choices:
1) find a better lumber yard. I mean a real one that caters to millwork shops and sells rough sawn stuff. You might even be able to sort through the stock and find the pieces you like.
2) use furniture grade plywood with the veneer of your choice. Birch, oak, mahogany,... This would be the easiest to build with because of the uniformity of plywood in general. No twisting or warping to contend with. Again, a serious lumber yard will offer several options.
 
Thanks guys. Option #2 from both of you has a similar theme. I like the idea of getting some 1/2 or 3/4" plywood, rip into strips the width of the desired height of the vertical piece (+/- 9"), and glue 'em up with staggered joints. I realized I could paint the plywood the off-white color of my sheetrock, and then put 1-by strips of clear-fir (same wood as the rest of the trim in my room) along the top and bottom edge. Can't decide if it would look sharp, or too "busy". Any thoughts about whether this plywood approach would be strong enough - it's got to span 13 or 15+ ft and hold up half the weight of the horizontal piece (2ft for the 13ft one, 1ft for the 15+ft one). The horizontal piece probably 3/8" pr 1/2" plywood, and some minor load on it like rope lights and down-directed task lighting.

This forum is awesome. Posted to a woodworking forum and nothing so far. Two replies here by the next morning !
 
plywood would probably be the most uniform stable. if you go to cabinet grade you can stain it and never know it was plywood. I would consider a gusset/stiffener on top of the shelf so you wont see it from the underside, maybe 2 foot spacing, might help cupping.
 
plywood would probably be the most uniform stable. if you go to cabinet grade you can stain it and never know it was plywood. I would consider a gusset/stiffener on top of the shelf so you wont see it from the underside, maybe 2 foot spacing, might help cupping.

It's purely aesthetic, but do you think my plan for painted plywood with stained top/bottom edges wouldn't look as good, or not ? But I don't mind springing for furniture grade plywood - after all, one sheet is all I need for each valance.

Oh yeah, stiffeners on the shelf for sure. I was wondering about the strength of the vertical piece though.
 
painted plywood with stained trim boards would look good. I have seen that done on cabinets before. vertical piece should be more than strong eough made out of plywood glued together.
 
painted plywood with stained trim boards would look good. I have seen that done on cabinets before. vertical piece should be more than strong eough made out of plywood glued together.

Sounds like it could be a plan then. Probably A-C pine plywood should be fine. Get it at Lowe's and have 'em rip it down on that giant saw they have.
 
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