Building deep jambs for door in masonry wall

[dave11]

House was built in 1951 with a walk-out basement. The man-door that leads to the outside needs to be moved/replaced, as it is original, starting to rot, and since there is new framing and insulation on the inner basement walls; this requires the door be moved 5 inches inward toward the basement, to be flush with the newly-framed inside walls.

The original jambs look like they were made from 2x10's, and are rabbeted. They are about 9.5 inches wide, to span from the inside block walls to the outer brick face. The jambs are starting to rot at the bottoms.

So now, the total distance to span with the jambs is 9.5 + 5 = 14.5 inches.

There is also a storm door flush to the brick that I want to replace.

Door is 36x80. Door opening 39 11/16 wide and 83 1/2 high.

Would it be best to try to duplicate the original construction, namely to use 2 8x10s, glued screwed side by side and cut to proper width, to span that 14.5 inch distance? That seems an like unwieldy size, and might be difficult to get plumb and level all around? And hard to shim properly?

Or what about just using 2x6's, one on each side of the opening, and fill-in between them with 1x material?

I guess these options though assume the masonry ends are plumb, which I don't know yet. So would it make more sense to use 1x material to attach to the masonry, then 1x material for the jambs, as though this were a door in a non-masonry wall?

Is there an easy solution i'm overlooking?

 

[gzecc]

House was built in 1951 with a walk-out basement. The man-door that leads to the outside needs to be moved/replaced, as it is original, starting to rot, and since there is new framing and insulation on the inner basement walls; this requires the door be moved 5 inches inward toward the basement, to be flush with the newly-framed inside walls.

The original jambs look like they were made from 2x10's, and are rabbeted. They are about 9.5 inches wide, to span from the inside block walls to the outer brick face. The jambs are starting to rot at the bottoms.

So now, the total distance to span with the jambs is 9.5 + 5 = 14.5 inches.

There is also a storm door flush to the brick that I want to replace.

Door is 36x80. Door opening 39 11/16 wide and 83 1/2 high.

Would it be best to try to duplicate the original construction, namely to use 2 8x10s, glued screwed side by side and cut to proper width, to span that 14.5 inch distance? That seems an like unwieldy size, and might be difficult to get plumb and level all around? And hard to shim properly?

Or what about just using 2x6's, one on each side of the opening, and fill-in between them with 1x material?

I guess these options though assume the masonry ends are plumb, which I don't know yet. So would it make more sense to use 1x material to attach to the masonry, then 1x material for the jambs, as though this were a door in a non-masonry wall?

Is there an easy solution i'm overlooking?

Whatever you use I would suggest either composite or pressure treated. Hard to recommend without seeing in person.

 

[Wooden Head]

House was built in 1951 with a walk-out basement. The man-door that leads to the outside needs to be moved/replaced, as it is original, starting to rot, and since there is new framing and insulation on the inner basement walls; this requires the door be moved 5 inches inward toward the basement, to be flush with the newly-framed inside walls.

The original jambs look like they were made from 2x10's, and are rabbeted. They are about 9.5 inches wide, to span from the inside block walls to the outer brick face. The jambs are starting to rot at the bottoms.

So now, the total distance to span with the jambs is 9.5 + 5 = 14.5 inches.

There is also a storm door flush to the brick that I want to replace.

Door is 36x80. Door opening 39 11/16 wide and 83 1/2 high.

Would it be best to try to duplicate the original construction, namely to use 2 8x10s, glued screwed side by side and cut to proper width, to span that 14.5 inch distance? That seems an like unwieldy size, and might be difficult to get plumb and level all around? And hard to shim properly?

Or what about just using 2x6's, one on each side of the opening, and fill-in between them with 1x material?

I guess these options though assume the masonry ends are plumb, which I don't know yet. So would it make more sense to use 1x material to attach to the masonry, then 1x material for the jambs, as though this were a door in a non-masonry wall?

Is there an easy solution i'm overlooking?

First Pick and order a door. You will need to know the exact size of the new door. Without the the new size you will not know what to use for the framing. Remember the time it will take to get the new door. I have waited up to 12 weeks after an order.

 

[blades]

Frankly if the new door is to be flush with interior a standard framing package is all you need to get that part done the rest is is just a trim out, or if placing storm door at the out side flush with exterior then again standard framing. between the 2 is just trim. the main concern here is how large the opening in the basement wall is vs the rough opening needed for the new door. any lumber that has ends exposed to wet conditions is going to wick moisture up through those ends , treated or not. Therefore those ends need to be sealed ( pressure treated is not sealed) ( in olden days the poles for a barn and the like were dipped in hot tar for about 2 ft or more depending on how deep they were sunk) currently I have 2 sill plate areas to repair ( basement doors one for a bilko set up the other for a set of stairs added on ( poorly) behind the garage portion of my home) both of these have suffered the same fate as you described. the bilko exit age is the same as the home apx 1990 build, the stairs sometime after that. I have addressed part of the problem with the bilko by pouring a 6" riser for the bilko portion which will allow me to change the grade which currenty is dead flat to negative around that area. Have to put a window well in, as well to raise grade. the other stairs area is going to be more extensive as it was just butted up to the home siding ( yellow jackets got in behind siding last year store bought remedies were insufficient- took a call to the bug people $$$ to get that corrected) Likly going to be $$$$ to have that done corectly although the door sill area I can do myself. the doors themselves are insulated steel units and are in good shape over all. cheapest thing i know of is watered down white glue to seal end grains,but i prefer something that would wick up in to the wood more for these areas like linseed oil with dryers added. That can be heated to aid in penetration.