Burn times

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For me my burn time is the time from putting wood in untill the stove is no longer maintaining heat in the home and I have to put more wood in.
 
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Most efficient operation is full loads allowed to go through the full "burn cycle"... start up, cruising, coaling. This uses the fuel most efficiently and greatly increases time between loads, but creates temperature cycles also.

A full burn cycle when it's cold does not give adequate heat for me, so I burn softwood loads on the piles of hardwood coals once I'm not getting the heat needed. This gives bursts of heat and burns down the coals allowing for more hardwood to be put in for the next long burn.
 
Burn times are effected from many different factors.

Species of wood used and when during a daily cycle.
Amount of draft and air inlet.
Size of stove for given heating space.
Model of stove. Example, cat stoves will typically provide the longest burn times.
Dryness of wood balanced with amount of given air supply.

I'm sure there is more I'm forgetting at the moment but these are a few to ponder over. We need more info to your set up to know what may be causing the "What am I doing wrong?"
 
So your saying 12 hours how many logs you putting in I put three maple logs in about every 2-3 hours what am I doing wrong
With the princess I am using I pretty much always load at 8 or 12 hours very occasionally 24. There certainly are times that is early and I could get longer but my loading schedule also needs to be at times that make sense with my sleep/work schedule. I load the stove full each time. The number of logs will vary greatly depending upon size and ammout of ash or coals that is in the firebox
 
Burn time is relative to the heat loss of the house and the size of the firebox. If one just puts in a few logs, burn time will be shorter. This is a frequently misused term. Burn time is often marketing speak for what's the longest burn the stove is capable of. This doesn't mean much when it's cold outside and the house heat loss is higher. Burn cycle might be a better word. With night time temps around 40 and daytime around 50 we are in a 12-6-0 cycle. 12 hrs from the morning load, 6 hrs with the evening load, then let the house cool down for sleeping. Start all over again in the morning. Shoulder season burn cycle. When it gets in the 30s we are in a 12-12 cycle, low 20s we shift to an 8-8-8 cycle.

There are dozens of threads a year on this topic. Search on burn time in the title.
Here's an oldie
 
I am burning a enerzone 1.8 solution stove I can fit about 4 logs and if I put damper all the way in it just smoldering and the blower shuts down not producing enough heat moisture content is tested and it well within standards I just seem to be loading wood to frequent
 
How is the moisture content being measured? How tall is the flue system from stovetop to chimney top?
 
The moisture is measured by bringing wood up to room temp splitting and measuring with a general company moisture meter the wood gas been drying for 18 months it is maple and is 15-18 percent on multiple pieces tested throughout the racks
 
Is the wood being tested on the end grain or after being resplit and tested on the freshly exposed face of the wood?

Flue system height?
 
It is measured in three locations all are under 20 % what do you mean flue height from the insert to the top of chimney it is about 20 feet it was installed in an existing fireplace does that make sense
 
It is measured in three locations all are under 20 % what do you mean flue height from the insert to the top of chimney it is about 20 feet it was installed in an existing fireplace does that make sense
Does it have a full 6" liner running from the stove out the top of the chimney?
 
On an interior chimney it seems to be okay to run with an uninsulated liner. For exterior wall chimneys you need the insulation to avoid heat loss.
 
I am burning a enerzone 1.8 solution stove I can fit about 4 logs
Sounds like this is the insert, correct? The flue height is good. Is the stove being loaded E/W, N/S, or criss-crossed? How thick are the splits? It seems like the firebox should handle about six 4" splits.

Bringing in EbS-P. He has the Drolet equivalent of this stove.
 
On an interior chimney it seems to be okay to run with an uninsulated liner. For exterior wall chimneys you need the insulation to avoid heat loss.
Liner insulation requirements depend upon clearances from the outside of the chimneys masonry structure and combustibles. From a safety standpoint it's more important on internal chimneys
 
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I am burning a enerzone 1.8 solution stove I can fit about 4 logs and if I put damper all the way in it just smoldering and the blower shuts down not producing enough heat moisture content is tested and it well within standards I just seem to be loading wood to frequent
My firebox is a similar size (10% bigger) - if you've only got 4 logs in there, they might be too big for the coal bed. I can load some nice big rounds in mine where only 4 will fit, but the whole stove needs to be nice and hot with good coals for that to work. Otherwise, I have better luck with a mix of smaller rounds and splits, with maybe 5 - 7 logs. I've been doing 4 reloads per day when the high is below 20, 3 when the high is below 40, and 2 otherwise - it's a soapstone stove, so how long of a useful burn time depends a lot on whether the stove is already hot (it takes about 40,000 BTUs to heat it up by 200 degrees - that then gets released as it cools, which is great for overnights, but the morning fire is definitely a bit shorter to get everything back up to temp).
 
My 1800i has a 2.4 cu ft box. But my other stove is 1.7. Yeah I’ve loaded 4 splits and it was full. Heck I’ve put just two in and didn’t have room for anything else. You get better and judging what splits will fit together and playing Tetris.
 
My 1800i has a 2.4 cu ft box. But my other stove is 1.7. Yeah I’ve loaded 4 splits and it was full. Heck I’ve put just two in and didn’t have room for anything else. You get better and judging what splits will fit together and playing Tetris.
You're right. The Enerzone 1.8 has the same firebox as the old Drolet 1800i. The Escape 1800i grew a full firebrick deeper. Not sure why they didn't rename it the Escape 2400i.
 
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Wonder what everyone means by burn time I put wood in my burner throughout the day but what does it mean

Different things to different folks.

I would suspect many folks here might consider "burn time" to be the time when the stove is putting out "meaningful" (i.e. you can feel it) heat or even define the start of the time when the stove reaches X degrees Fahrenheit to when the stove falls below that figure). Other folks might consider the time of first lighting the stove to when you need to reload the stove.

The P.R. folks with many woodstove manufacturers seem to define the term as when you first think about lighting a fire until that last glowing coal winks out of existence.

The Blaze King folks define "burn time" in weeks, not hours. ;)
 
Yeah that's one thing I've been disapointed in, the PR version of burn time vs reality. VC claims 14hrs for my Defiant, that's laughably inaccurate. Granted I'm a rookie at loading the thing but if I fill it to the gills I'll get about 4hrs from flipping the cat on (30 minutes after loading on a hot bed of coals) to when meaningful heat is gone which to me is dipping down to 300 F. Maybe tack on 1 extra hr if we're talking till coals no longer glow. Still a far cry from 14, they must have some ultra dense magic wood or something.
 
Yeah that's one thing I've been disapointed in, the PR version of burn time vs reality. VC claims 14hrs for my Defiant, that's laughably inaccurate. Granted I'm a rookie at loading the thing but if I fill it to the gills I'll get about 4hrs from flipping the cat on (30 minutes after loading on a hot bed of coals) to when meaningful heat is gone which to me is dipping down to 300 F. Maybe tack on 1 extra hr if we're talking till coals no longer glow. Still a far cry from 14, they must have some ultra dense magic wood or something.
Your draft might be to strong, sending most of the heat up the flue rather then letting it radiate out the stove top.
 
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test w/ a manometer if above .08" wc then install a key damper
 
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