Burning rounds advice needed

[termv]

This wood is 5-7 years seasoned and always covered, in other words very dry and not even a little punky. Here is what I tried maybe someone can tell me a better way to burn rounds.

A couple/3 rounds NS, big bed of coals. Had to keep damper open 50% and coal bed burned away before rounds burned down and seem to burn "dirty" after coals were gone. Not a big deal when someone is around to open damper further once the coals get low but if asleep or at work this is not good.

A round with 2 large splits NS and this seems to work better because I think the splits create flame/heat and coals but eventually we end up with same results as above just not as quick.

All I can think is we need to load the T5 up to the gills with assorted splits and 1 round. Problem there is we don't need that much heat so maybe we'll have to 1/2 the few rounds I have?

 

[Jfk4th]

I like to use round, split, round N/S for a nice overnight burn. It seems to work fairly well. Enough coals to start with small splits in the morning. Temps about 225F when I wake up, thermostat at 65F. Only problem for me is that I don't have enough rounds...live and learn once again for next years supply...I won't have soooo many splits, save some more rounds

 

[vtdavid]

On the Super 27 I had (same firebox as he T5) loading at least the middle of the stove to the top so the afterburner kicked and could coal that top loaded wood, was necessary for a clean burn. If the sides are loaded to go halfway to the top that would work. I found on the T6 I now have that I can load two in the bottom, n/s and two kitty corner on top of them. This gives enough wood height to get the afterburner going charring those top pieces and a smaller fire for warmer days. I also leave the damper wide open for a time before damping down to half then damp down to run which is half to a full damper tab width open. The trick with mine is getting the stove hot enough at the onset for the afterburner to work. Unlike some, I use a stove pipe thermometer 3' above the stove. When it reaches 500 degrees, I damp down to half. Sometimes I damp to half early but I will need to leave it half longer for the stove to reach temp as it appears the wood is burning to far back and wasting heat I'll need later in the night. I find a good bed of ash helps the fire establish quicker. I leave a good two inches in the stove after shoveling it out. Never did find that little ash door very useful. How big are the rounds you are using? Good luck with the T5. It is a nice stove.

 

[wellbuilt home]

Ive been cutting my rounds in half . They dry better and seems to burn better with less air space around the wood .

 

[Backwoods Savage]

In my hundred years (or so I was told it has been that long) of burning wood I've never had any problem with rounds. I can load the stove with all rounds and it still burns nicely. Every stove I've ever owned has always liked them....as long as they were dry. Any sign of green in them and they won't burn worth squat.

 

[termv]

I will split one tonight and put the MM to it but they havent seen any moisture since cut 3-5 or longer years ago. They are walnut about 5" across and have had been debarked at time of cutting.

 

[snowtime]

I think this is the difference with drafts. My T6 has great draft sometimes a bit to much and if I put 2 or 3 rounds on coals I can shut the air down after 1 or 2 minutes and the slow start to 800 is on the way but if I put 1-6" round the stove will take off but never get to 800 as there is just not enough fuel. If you are talking about a small coal bed that you can not spread to cover the whole floor of the fire box then I can see leaving the draft open until everything is going good though I would not have to with my draft. During the day when its not cold out [above -5F] I just put a small amount of wood in stove. This is how I keep it going without overheating. Works great but I am retired and always here. Overnight I load it up and if the house is to warm inthe morning I just let the fire almost die.

 

[InTheRockies]

I use rounds for overnight burns--during this extreme arctic cold snap that we're in, I'm burning them 24/7--they burn fine. Just be careful about placement in front near your glass because they can roll as they're burning down. I generally try to wedge a small spit between the round closest to the front and the lip of the stove near the door. This seems to do the trick to keep them from rolling as they burn down.

 

[Valhalla]

Yup, I have always used large rounds for great overnight burns on the coldest nights or during blizzards. I stack them in a special, long term corner of the woodshed.

Rounds are mighty fine for wood stoves!

 

[jpl1nh]

I agree rounds are great for long overnight burns because they are slower to ignite and burn. This makes them harder to burn though for an ordinary load. I'll bury a big round at the bottom in the back of my overnight load and then fill with splits and perhaps another round or two depending on the temps. Learning your wood really helps you control your heat output and burn times. Learn the difference between hardwoods and softwoods, big pieces and small pieces, splits and rounds, loose loading and tight loading and all the various combinations of above. They all have a place and will help you produce the right amount of heat for all the various situations the heating season gives you.

 

[Cearbhaill]

During the day when its not cold out [above -5F]

Couldn't let this go by without saying "yowser!".
That is all.

 

[johnnywarm]

In my hundred years (or so I was told it has been that long) of burning wood I've never had any problem with rounds. I can load the stove with all rounds and it still burns nicely. Every stove I've ever owned has always liked them....as long as they were dry. Any sign of green in them and they won't burn worth squat.

I'll second this

 

[Cazimere]

I put a small 6" round in the back with an 8" or 9" round in the front for overnight burns.
I close the damper completely and still have a nice bed of coals 9 or 10 hours later : )

 

[iskiatomic]

Can someone clear up what the NS and MM, abbreviation's are used for?

 

[crazy_dan]

NS is the wood loaded where you see the ends pointing at you from the door EW is where you are looking at the sides of the splits when loaded.

 

[termv]

MM is Moisture Meter.

 

[Cazimere]

Can someone clear up what the NS and MM, abbreviation's are used for?

MM is for moisture meter : )
or Maniac Momma.

 

[johnnywarm]

Or MM is Mountin mush