Cabin Stove?

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Mike M.

Feeling the Heat
Mar 18, 2012
325
Green Bay, WI
Hi Everyone - just purchased a cabin in the north woods and here is the stove. Not quite 18in clearance on the single wall pipe. Any ideas to fix this setup? Thinking about just starting over and going straight up with new class A setup. The black pipe goes into the wall. Can take and post more pics Thursday. [Hearth.com] Cabin Stove?
 
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Straight up is a good plan, especially for a one story cabin in order to meet the flue requirement height of 15'. 90º turns in the flue path will restrict draft. Usually straight up is less expensive too. Use double-wall stove pipe to assist draft. It has 6" clearance, though you will still need to honor the stove corner clearance requirement and the hearth insulation requirement for the 30NC.
 
Sorry never updated my signature, my 30 is in my basement, not sure what this stove is yet. The single wall pipe of this cabin stove is about 3 in from the wall and I am not sure the wall even has a thimble.

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Whew, that pipe got hot, didn't it? I would check that stove over well for overfire damage before doing anything else, you might end up junking it.
 
I was thinking the same thing about the overfire. Just bought the place so it wasn't me.

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Sorry never updated my signature, my 30 is in my basement, not sure what this stove is yet. The single wall pipe of this cabin stove is about 3 in from the wall and I am not sure the wall even has a thimble.

Uh oh :eek: . I wasn't sure that pic was real, thought it was just a mockup to check for fit because I couldn't believe single wall would be put in that close. The stove pipe definitely got very hot. Don't burn here without revising the flue setup. If there is wood in the walls and not concrete block then the wood is likely pyrolyzed and could go up quickly.
 
Not an expert, but things I see in the photo that would concern me . . .

-- Stove pipe too close to a combustible surface (wall)
-- Signs that the stove pipe has been run too hot (white discoloration)
-- Unable to determine if there is a proper wall pass-through device
-- Horizontal run appears to go downhill in the photo
 
Stove may be too close to combustibles also. Hearth adequacy is unknown.
 
Thanks all, I have a professional coming to the site this week. I was concerned about things but now I am really concerned. This needs to be fixed correctly. Found out that the place already had one garage fire due to a wood stove. Probably the same installer (previous owner) that installed this one. Why people do stuff like this is mind boggling. So much information at our finger tips these days to do things right and safe.

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Is that beadboard on the walls behind the stove?
 

Unfortunately, your one photo leaves me with more questions than answers.

What are the walls made of? Some here seem to assume it is wood. That may be absolutely correct. But then again... maybe not. Some cabins have been build with local stone for example, and neatly and directly plastered and skimmed inside (i.e. no paper covered plaster board). And for all I know the other wall may be brick. In which case, no significant fire hazard. But without full information, how can anyone give really correct advise on that?

And is the flue entering the chimney directly? What type of chimney? Stone? Brick? Steel? Lined? Unlined? Again, most any answer to the question depends on detailed and fact based information on the current conditions.

I await your follow up details and more photos (including the exterior setup I hope) on Thursday.
 
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Update - this weekend I plan to install a new chimney. The existing will be removed completely and I will do things to code/spec.
 
So what are the clearance requirements for an exhaust pipe?
That depends upon what you mean by exhaust pipe. Single wall connector pipe needs 18". Doublewall connector pipe generally needs 6" but the manufacturer will give you that spec. Class a chimney pipe generally needs 2" but again the manufacturer will tell you what is needed
 
All in all, it's a good excuse to do a bit of investigating and insulation work. Then you can size the stove for the cabin.
 
Been busy after work today, ceiling support box in place and attic insulation shield is installed. Tomorrow it's time to cut the roof. Looking forward to it.

[Hearth.com] Cabin Stove?
 
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My 1st class A metal chimney installation. Had to jog forward some to avoid the roof peak. Stove works way better.

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Would like to get some single wall 45 degree elbows to replace the adjustable ones, then again this is a cabin. Cost was less than $400 with Menards 11% off sale. Was a good project, I want to do another one.

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My only question would be is this okay clearance for single wall pipe?
[Hearth.com] Cabin Stove?

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That's a big improvement. Did you figure out the stove make/model? It should be on the testing label on the back of the stove.

PS: If you go into the settings for the Tapatalk app you can set the Tapatalk signature line to None to remove their tagline. Don't know why Tapatalk does this by default. No one cares about the phone.
 
The stove is a Highlander. Not the best stove but it's working.

Begreen is the ceiling clearance okay?

[Hearth.com] Cabin Stove?

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First time I've seen a Highlander. It looks like it has the standard 15' flue length requirement. The new flue, running straight up should make a world of difference. The clearance is not perfect, but it may be ok. The trim shield is offering a little protection. If you have an IR thermometer you could check the ceiling temp after a during a hot burn.