Calling all Blaze kingers

[fire slave]

Hello all, this is my first post. Been lurking for sometime, and found lots of info for a first time wood burner.

I have a Blaze King Princess, it was installed last fall. So I have a year and some under my belt. Last season was went well, burning about 3-4 chords of wood in a 1000 sqft home with a basement, stove is in the basement. I live in interior bc Canada, and we are accustomed to several weeks of -20 to -30 deg c.

So the problem arised yesterday, I decided to clean my chimney. Last year I cleaned it twice and it had maybe a 1/8th to 1/4 inch of light creosote , maybe about half a litre worth. Yesterdays cleaning was much more, there was a good 3/4 inch layered on, and maybe could fill 2 liters. It was clean at the start of season, and started burning in oct. MY wood is drier then last year as well, it ranges in the 10- 20 % , pine spruce is around 10-13 and the fir is around 13-18.

One difference I started to do about a month ago, was when refueling, I leave the bypass open to allow the steam and vapor to not hit the combustor. And if I need to burn off some gunk on the glass I burn it hot and open for a bit as well, around 20- 45 mins. Last year I open bypass reload , and close by pass very soon , and run high with it closed.

I changed it this year as more reading on flame contact and other combustor maintenance, said to leave it open for a while. Not sure if last years burning practice has caused my combust to peel, and allow more creosote up the chimney, or keeping the bypass open longer causes more creosote up the chimney.

I think the instructions in the manual are vague, as it does say in operating instructions pg 23 item 7-8, after door is closed and catalytic thermometer is in active, close bypass. Item 8 then states let the fire burn on higher setting for 20 - 30 mins. and again on door glass cleaning, it says to run on high for 30 to one hour, to clean, never staing what position the bypass should be in. It was after being in contact with BK that they told me to leave the bypass open after fresh reload and to clean off gass.

I haven't taken the combustor out yet but have cleaned the face off with a shope vac. I can see some minor cracking on the face in a few spots, and what looks like some minor peeling , I think its minor. What ive read is that is normal. I thought maybe the gasket on by pass door may be be leaking but it seemed to look good. But I decided to adjust the nut to give it a more secure lock. I guess that screw is what you would adjust to give a strong close, but when I tried to turn it, it easily sheared off, woops. I think it still has a good solid contact when locked, look a fun job this summer to get that nut out.

Any ways , would love some input on this to see what all you guys think. Is the combustor already caput. How well does the flame guard work? Can I have a big fire going with the bypass closed?

Thanks for reading.

 

[Highbeam]

How well does the flame guard work? Can I have a big fire going with the bypass closed?

Flame guard does its job. The flame impingment is not what kills BK cats, it is the leaky door gasket 95% of the time according to BK. Ignore the flames. FYI, the other thing you probably read is that heat kills cats, don't worry about that either.

I can see some minor cracking on the face in a few spots, and what looks like some minor peeling , I think its minor. What ive read is that is normal.

Mine has that too. Who knows why but nothing is falling apart or out. Each cell has one crack across the whole thing diagnoly. 10 year cat warranty.

keeping the bypass open longer causes more creosote up the chimney.

That's your problem. These stoves, when burning evergreens especially, belch plumes of smoke when the bypass is open. As soon as your cat meter reads active and rising, close the bypass.

Stat settings between 1-3 are okay.

 

[fire slave]

Flame guard does its job. The flame impingment is not what kills BK cats, it is the leaky door gasket 95% of the time according to BK. Ignore the flames. FYI, the other thing you probably read is that heat kills cats, don't worry about that either.



Mine has that too. Who knows why but nothing is falling apart or out. Each cell has one crack across the whole thing diagnoly. 10 year cat warranty.



That's your problem. These stoves, when burning evergreens especially, belch plumes of smoke when the bypass is open. As soon as your cat meter reads active and rising, close the bypass.

Stat settings between 1-3 are okay.

Yeah , I guess I'll try closing the bypass a lot sooner like I use too. I also don't really keeping it open too long cause it isn't very efficient during that stage. Like a 1970 smoke dragon.

 

[Highbeam]

On these stoves you'll often see that bar that runs across the bypass opening melted and sagged. You'll also see the whole bypass gasket frame warped. I have to think that this is from leaving the bypass open too long.

The manual is pretty clear about closing the bypass once your cat meter is in the active range and climbing. It is not clear about many other things such as the click that you get once you really push the bypass lever closed hard.

 

[fire slave]

When my stove was new the bypass clicked in hard , it has got much easier over time. That is why I tried to tighten it up and sheared that bolt off.

I understand the manual says to close bypass when temps are right. But BK told me to leave it open when reloading and burning off the glass until the fire is well established. Hopefully I can go back to my old routine and have less buildup of the creosote.

 

[xtrordinair]

i always shut the bypass right after a reload .Leaving it open allows the cat temp to drop off on me.I like to see that baby glow.

 

[xtrordinair]

oh i forgot to say you have now earned your cool kid club card its exclusive to B.K.owners only