Can’t find wood stove small enough

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dpreznik

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 23, 2008
7
CT
Could anybody please suggest where I can find a wood burning stove that would feet into 17" deep and 20" wide space?
I need it to heat an additional room (300 sq feet) between my house and the garage.
I am attaching a picture of the place I want to put the stove in. There is a separate chimney over it.

Thanks
 

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can you connect in with pipe and use a bigger stove?
 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/26043/
There are a few listed here with good info. The Jotul 602 is the most popular stove in the world supposedly. Others here designed to go on a boat would work for small spaces.

Wish I had a use for that Jotul 602. damn sexy.
 
humpin iron said:
Jotul 602 is the one

Thank you all who answered. I have been given Jotul 602. Now my problem is that the building inspector requires a brochure for this stove to give me a permit, and I don't have any. Could anybody refer me to something online?
Also, is it a good idea in general to put the stove into that tight space? Wouldn't it be bad for the stove or for bricks?

Thank you in advance.
 
I am getting this message:
The system cannot find the path specified.

But the real problem is that it should be the original Jotul 602, not Jotul 602 CB.
It looks like this:

(broken image removed)
 
OK, I ordered the manual from Jotul, and if has already come!
Now I have another question. My stove is all covered with rust, and I want to paint it. Maybe somebody could tell me if I need to use high temperature primer before actual paint?

Thanks in advance.
 
Dmitriy Reznik said:
OK, I ordered the manual from Jotul, and if has already come!
Now I have another question. My stove is all covered with rust, and I want to paint it. Maybe somebody could tell me if I need to use high temperature primer before actual paint?

Thanks in advance.

Sand/wire brush/wire wheel the crap out of it and hit it with high temp paint. No need for primer.
 
Thank you for the answer.
Now I have another question concerning installation of the stove. I have chimney flue along the whole length of the brick chimney. Do I need to have a steel liner of the full length of the chimney? Are there any advantages and disadvantages of it?

Thanks.
 
OK,
maybe then somebody could tell me if my wood stove really needs burning plates? Because I realized they are missing from the stove that had been given to me.

Thanks.
 
Absolutely necessary. They are sacrificial, but important. They keep the fire box hotter for cleaner burning and they prevent heat damage to the outer castiron walls. Without them I would expect the stove to have a short life and it would need full 36" clearances all around. Also, the top baffle rests on the top edge of these plates. Without them the upper baffle will be in crooked. This will allow heat directly up the flue and will likely accelerate deterioration as well as make the stove burn lousy.

I've run a 602 with bad burn plates and learned this the hard way. The difference from running a stove in good order is quite dramatic. Don't despair, You can pick up new burn plates from several different online stores.

http://www.stovepartsunlimited.com/
http://www.stovepartsplus.com/Merch...=CTGY&Store_Code=SPP&Category_Code=JOT-602nUL
 
wow, just checked out those prices! looks like your free stove isn't turning out to be so free after all. Hope you don't need all the burn plates. each side burn plate is 75 bucks, the bottom is 97 each (2 required) let's see that could be 150+194 = 344 bucks.
 
There's only one bottom plate and it is bolted in. They usually stand up fine so my guess is that it's unlikely to be missing. But if the top baffle is missing, then it will cost. However, if it's just the side burn plates, and the stove is in good condition except for the missing plates, then getting a top running 602 for $150 is still a sweet deal.
 
I can't wait to see it installed. I have developed a liking for small cast iron stoves. Maybe related to changes to my home that make the heritage oversized during the fall and spring temps.
 
Danno77 said:
wow, just checked out those prices! looks like your free stove isn't turning out to be so free after all.
Yes, I am discouraged. I am not that sure that the stove itself is in good enough condition.
Thank you all who answered.
 
If you do get it running I would be curious of what you think of the heating ability.. I noticed someone suggested it be the pre EPA model. I had the BlackBear larger Jotul version.. I was not worth a darn at heating yet I heard the original was.. But both surprisingly are creosote makers from what I have been told. The BlackBear even when properly operated made about a half inch in the pipe in two months which I found surprising.
 
Certainly investigate the price of a brand new 602 with warranty and fresh paint to see what your time and efforts will be worth. I have heard that they are a decent value.
 
I have a friend that is very up on stoves and loves Jotuls but returned the new version of the 602 for the same reason, wouldn't heat sufficiently. Maybe some do, mine didn't, his didn't.
 
Our neighbor is now going on their third season with a 602CB. A couple months ago I asked them how it was working for them. They said they were very happy with it and that the stove was heating their 800 sq ft home very well. Dry wood helps.

We had the older 602 in the house and it could easily heat our 2000 sq ft until temps dropped to around 35-40 degrees. You had to feed it more often when it got cold outside, but it could put out some good heat. We loved that little stove so much that it's still in the garage waiting for me to build our greenhouse.
 
I have had a Jotul 606 a 118 and currently have a new 500. I honestly think that they both put out as much heat as my 500 but for shorter periods of time of course. The older stoves were not nearly as picky about the wood used, it could be less seasoned in a pinch. I never had a problem with creosote build up even with my 606. I cleaned my flue once a season and inspected once a season.
 
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