Can anyone identify this?

[sandb4jeep]

Hi folks,

Around 15 years ago when designing our modular home, one of the options was to have a pre-fab flue added in to the home, which we did. Now, 15 years later we are just getting around to finishing off the flue. It currently runs from our basement up to the attic crawl space.

What is there seems to be an un-insulated triple wall pipe. The inside pipe diameter is 8" & the outside is just over 12". In the basement, there is a "box" that is nailed in to the floor joists and this is where it seems that the pipe is resting.

My question, is this triple wall, and what can I get to connect to it to continue the run from the attic through the roof? Here is a photo from the attic looking down.

 

[begreen]

Welcome. Do you know what fireplace you want to install? Getting the identity of this pipe will be critical. Prefab manufacturers will specify the accepted pipe brands and specification. Many newer high efficiency prefabs (Zero Clearance or ZC) fireplaces require class A insulated chimney pipe now. This is probably not class A unless it is AirJet All-Fuel chimney. So before adding on to this chimney, know which ZC you are installing and go over its chimney requirements carefully.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

what do you intend to connect to it (as air cooled systems are generally rated to UL103 for 1700 F max temp. this is generally used for zero clearance fireplaces but not a wood stove. to connect a woodstove one would need pipe listed at UL103-HT which is an insulated pipe rated to 2100F max temp.

an air cooled system is designed to reduce stack temps where insulated pipe is designed to trap heat inside the flue system to maintain draft.

if you have access to the pipe search the skin of the pipe for a label which would give the UL listing, if you intend to connect a woodstove to it it needs to have that HT listing.

its very important

 

[sandb4jeep]

Thank you for the replies. Our intention is to connect a wood burning stove in the basement. We were hoping that we could purchase pipe that would match what is already there, snap it in place & run it on out of the roof, but it's starting to sound like that may not be an option now.

I'll head up in the attic this evening & attempt to get some numbers off of the existing pipe.

 

[begreen]

Wood stoves require class A pipe. As noted earlier, this pipe is probably not rated for wood stove use unless it is AirJet All-Fuel class A pipe. Bring a camera up and take a picture of the label. Worst case scenario would be that the pipe needs to be replaced and sold on craigslist or eBay.

 

[sandb4jeep]

If the flue that is there, does happen to be an AirJet All-Fuel Class A type.....Does anyone have experience with it? Is it good stuff? Safe?

As an FYI, our original plan was to run "SuperVent" insulated doublewall pipe from the basement up through this area that runs to the attic and extend it out of the roof.

 

[webby3650]

It looks like ameri-vent triple wall air cooled pipe. It was only approved for 1700 degrees, later when standards changed, they added a layer of cerimac wool insulation to it. This made it good for 2100 degrees, which is the current standard. For safety sake, I would suggest pulling it out and replacing it with class A pipe. Some of that old pipe is around, it'll be hard to find though.

 

[begreen]

I don't know much about Air-Jet flue. First heard of it just a few weeks ago. If that is your brand pipe, it is rated 2100F HT 130 and would be safe. But webby3650 has a lot more field experience and is probably correct. If so your original plan was better. SuperVent UltraVent or DuraVent are all class A. I think as webby said the current piping will require removing everything, including the support box. Then replace with a new support box and class A piping.

Do you know what stove you will be getting? There is a good chance you will not need 8" pipe. Most stoves are 6" now.

 

[bholler]

I agree with webby it would be a much better option to pull it and replace it with class a

 

[sandb4jeep]

Okay folks, here is the sticker that's on the side. So, with this information, can I attach on & continue out the roof? Or should I pull it out & go with an insulated double-wall?

Thanks in advance!

 

[bholler]

Well it says ht so technically you could use it but i think you would be much happier with an insulated chimney and besides it is 8" most modern stoves use 6". Just my opinion i have no experience with air jet

 

[webby3650]

The air-jet that I have messed with was much bigger outside diameter. That must be newer pipe than I have seen.
I see no reason to not use it. I have run lots of stoves with a 6" flue on my 8" chimney with very good success! The issue will still be finding more of it. Where did you get it originally? Are they still in business? They just might have some in a shed out back!?

 

[webby3650]

Also make sure you have a stovepipe adaptor at the bottom.

 

[begreen]

Son of a gun. Second time in a few weeks that this pipe has shown up. It should be ok to use.

I don't know if this info is still good but here is the contact number for finding a listed distributor:
(broken link removed to http://www.continentalindustries.com/default.aspx)
1-800-735-5272.

 

[sandb4jeep]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your time!

At least I now know what's there, finding more of it may be a challenge! Thanks again!

 

[sandb4jeep]

@begreen - Thank you for that contact information. I gave them a call this morning. They were able to locate an AirJet distributor in my area. Seems that no one carries the triple-wall as a stock item, but they can order it.

 

[begreen]

Glad it worked out. Feel free to hang out here and ask questions as your project progresses. When you're ready, take some shots of the basement area where you want to put the stove and post them here.

 

[sandb4jeep]

Okay fellas, one more question & then I'll leave you guys alone.

I just got off the phone with the AirJet distributor, it's not looking very good for me to get the correct pieces that I need to finish off my flue with their product. So, in looking at Lowes, I see that they sell "SuperVent" insulated double-wall chimney pipe. Does anyone have experience with that brand?

 

[webby3650]

Sure, what do you need to know?

 

[sandb4jeep]

I guess just making sure that someone has used it before, trusts it....It seems like it's designed well, I like how the pieces lock together. I suppose I'm just making sure that no one says, "Stay away from that stuff!"

 

[begreen]

Sounds like you may become an AirJet supplier (on craigslist/eBay) for a short while. SuperVent is a Selkirk value line chimney pipe sold by Lowes. Home Depot sells DuraVent. I've had a bit better luck with DuraTech, especially at the flashing. Never had a seam leak with it, but I did have one with some older Selkirk pipe. I fixed it by siliconing the first length of exterior exposed pipe's seam.

 

[sandb4jeep]

Yep, I do believe that I'll be advertising some AirJet triple wall pipe shortly. We kind of live out in the boondocks, so unless I use the local mom & pops hardware store, Lowes is my closest supplier. We're going to be taking our shingle roof off & replacing it with a metal roof, that's what has brought this whole "chimney pipe" search on. I figured while the guys were up on the roof, I may as well get them to cut me a hole out where the pipe runs up.

 

[sandb4jeep]

uperVent is a Selkirk value line chimney pipe sold by Lowes. Home Depot sells DuraVent. I've had a bit better luck with DuraTech, especially at the flashing. Never had a seam leak with it, but I did have one with some older Selkirk pipe. I fixed it by siliconing the first length of exter

I fixed it by siliconing the first length of exterior exposed pipe's seam.

You can silicone the outside pipe? So, it must stay fairly cool to touch then, right?

 

[begreen]

Yes, a good quality silicone is fine. It doesn't get too hot, well under the 400F rating for the silicone caulk. The only place you should need it is on the top edge of the storm collar above the flashing.

 

[Heatsource]

basic clear silicone is typically good to about 250*f
the outside wall should stay comfortably below that in regular usage
if concerned they make medium and high temp silicone good to 500 and 750*f

oops, begreen is faster than me!