My fan won't kick on, till it is a certain temp. So if it has kicked on, can I assume the stove/flue is hot enough to be efficient and also keep the creosote buildup down?
Can I assume that if the fan has kicked on, the temp is high enough to keep creosote down?
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Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
It all depends on the stove. Each manufacturer has it set to their specs as to when it kicks on & off.
My Summit kicks on at about 300 if I remember correctly. I use it in manual mode and leave it running 24/7 when burning.
For me 300 is too low and that is the threshold of creating creosote build up.
My Summit kicks on at about 300 if I remember correctly. I use it in manual mode and leave it running 24/7 when burning.
For me 300 is too low and that is the threshold of creating creosote build up.
hilly
Feeling the Heat
If you're burning softwood, you are likely lighting the fire each morning, like I do. My first fire of the day is a very hot fire so that I can warm the stove and hearth up, get the house warmed up and burn off any residual creosote from the night before.
When your fan kicks on, the stove is in the process of warming up and the fire is in its initial stage of burning with a secondary burn going. I close the air down a bit, but I make sure that the secondary burn continues and the fire stays hot. I've closed the air down too quickly before and within minutes the secondary flames stop and the stove starts cooling down. It's at this point that there is the possibility of creosote build up.
My, perhaps oversimplified understanding of things, is that once the secondary burn has burned the combustibles in the smoke, there isn't much left that can line your chimney and start a fire later on.
When your fan kicks on, the stove is in the process of warming up and the fire is in its initial stage of burning with a secondary burn going. I close the air down a bit, but I make sure that the secondary burn continues and the fire stays hot. I've closed the air down too quickly before and within minutes the secondary flames stop and the stove starts cooling down. It's at this point that there is the possibility of creosote build up.
My, perhaps oversimplified understanding of things, is that once the secondary burn has burned the combustibles in the smoke, there isn't much left that can line your chimney and start a fire later on.
Bokehman, can I assume then.if the glass is dirty the chimney is also???? My glass is staying pretty clean, but dirty around the corners.
woodsie8 said:
Could it be this simple? I wish. A nearly clean window is probably a good indicator of complete combustion. Unfortunately there may also be other indicators that may also depend on what kind of stove, chimney, wood, outdoor temp/pressure, elevation.................................................
I know I have burned my new stove on setting that were too low to achieve secondary burn. The glass went black. I don't use those settings/technique anymore and my glass is now clear and I haven't cleaned it. I see this as progress.
I think the people that designed and built my stove have made it easier for any Joe 6-pack to burn wood and make it look easy. My old stove if operated by complete beginner would end up frustrating or scaring the hell out of them because there were too many variables.
Adios Pantalones
Minister of Fire
A lot of the smoke that darkens the glass is during startup. Once the stove gets hot most of that burns off, but I can see the corners being darker if the fire is primarily in the center of the firebox. My glass stays pretty clean, but does darken in the corners over several fires. I think that is going to be the way of things until it gets cold enough to fill the firebox. Not a big deal, I'm used to cleaning it on the weekend if it needs it.
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