Can I trouble you with another Class "A" chimney pipe inside the house question?

[snow4me]

As some of you know I am attempting to use Class "A" polished stainless steel chimney pipe in my cabin coming directly out of the top of the stove and through the cathidrial ceiling 2ft past the peak of my 12/12 pitch roof. The main reason I am doing this is I like the polished SS look AND I don't want the box hanging down from the ceiling. It's looking like I am settling on Dura-tech class "A" and I have figured a way to connect it directly to the stove. PROBLEM- Dura-tech tech support says I CAN'T use it inside. WHY??? I can't understand the reasoning behind it. He mentions codes and having to have the box/support enclosed around any Class "A" poking through to the inside. I just want a simple round cover going around the pipe at the ceiling. Sorry for the post, I just don't understand. I don't want to hurt my family but I don't see how this could be a bad thing?

Thanks, Daryl

EDIT: Went back and read another post that I put up about this, maybe I wasn't paying too much attention at the time, whoops! I am going to use an outside roof support right where the Class "A" passes through so I don't believe the inside support box will be needed. Just need to know if I am going to have problems doing this. I never was much for rules but I am very safety consience.
Just don't like "the man" telling me what I can and can't do.

Thanks again

 

[Brian VT]

I would think that if you are using the roof support per Simpson's manual (not overloading) and you have 2" clearance around the pipe then you are okay.
Just my opinion. The lawyers will probably disagree. They don't allow for logic.
The only other concern is that they spec. wall bands/supports every so many feet ?

 

[dougand3]

As Brian states w/ respect to 2" clearance to Class A chimney, the principle is the same: An 8" pipe inside a 12" hole (perfectly centered, of course). Does it matter if the hole is in ceiling sheetrock or OSB roof decking? I can't see why it'd matter. One issue to examine: Normal procedure is to build a square 2x4 or 2x6 box between your roof joists for the "ceiling support box" to screw into. On top of this 2x box - you place an attic insulation sheild (basically a tapered cylinder of sheet metal (Class A inside it) that keeps insulation 2" away from Class A chimney. If you did this - I don't see a net change. BUT - this MAY BE OUTSIDE CODE for your area - check that AND if fire insurance stays in force.

 

[fattire]

If I understand your application properly, there is a code compliant method to do this using Selkirk Metalbestos products without a box hanging down. They make a roof support for passing Class A pipe thru a roof with 2 inch clearance. Part number is 6T-RSP. You need a trim plate to go with it.

IMHO the best way to connect Class A to the stove using Selkirk products is with a very short piece of black pipe to a proper adapter such as DCPA.

That said, you can save some money with this setup (serious money if high ceiling) by using double wall black and just having one section of Class A below the ceiling.

 

[bartlett7516]

IMHO if you get the pipe connected to the stove properly and maintain the 2" clearances there should not be a problem you can buy paintable trim rings for around the ceiling to cover the 2' gap and supports can be placed in the attic and on the roof. Whats the problem?

 

[snow4me]

IMHO if you get the pipe connected to the stove properly and maintain the 2" clearances there should not be a problem you can buy paintable trim rings for around the ceiling to cover the 2' gap and supports can be placed in the attic and on the roof. Whats the problem?

No problem on my end, the guy at Dura-vent went postal on me for even suggesting Class "A" in the house. I don't see a problem with it but I figured I'd double and triple check here before I install it.

Thanks guys

 

[mike1234]

As some of you know I am attempting to use Class "A" polished stainless steel chimney pipe in my cabin coming directly out of the top of the stove and through the cathidrial ceiling 2ft past the peak of my 12/12 pitch roof. The main reason I am doing this is I like the polished SS look AND I don't want the box hanging down from the ceiling. It's looking like I am settling on Dura-tech class "A" and I have figured a way to connect it directly to the stove. PROBLEM- Dura-tech tech support says I CAN'T use it inside. WHY??? I can't understand the reasoning behind it. He mentions codes and having to have the box/support enclosed around any Class "A" poking through to the inside. I just want a simple round cover going around the pipe at the ceiling. Sorry for the post, I just don't understand. I don't want to hurt my family but I don't see how this could be a bad thing?

Thanks, Daryl

EDIT: Went back and read another post that I put up about this, maybe I wasn't paying too much attention at the time, whoops! I am going to use an outside roof support right where the Class "A" passes through so I don't believe the inside support box will be needed. Just need to know if I am going to have problems doing this. I never was much for rules but I am very safety consience.
Just don't like "the man" telling me what I can and can't do.

Thanks again

The stove can't have the weight of the chimney pipe on it, you need to have all the weight of the pipe on the joists or rafters (or in your case you might be somehow to use the floor?). I don't think the issue is with the polished stainless in the house, it just can't be resting on the stove. I'm not sure how you do this is your case, but I bet there is some creative way to have some kind of support at the bottom, or close to the bottom of the stainless to take the weight.

 

[Darl Bundren]

If I'm not mistaken, the Duratech installation manual says that you cannot run the Class A all the way to the stove. The book says you need to have at least some single wall in there. How much, I'm not sure...

 

[snow4me]

Never heard of the weight being an issue, don't know though. Darl, I don't think it needs to be single wall, it can be DVL inside. I just don't see their reasoning that I can't run Class "A" all the way safely. I hope I am not beating a dead horse because thats the last thing I want to do. I am just wondering why and it seems no one really knows? Funny how I can use single wall cheap black pipe with no problem but if I want to use double wall stainless snaplock with super powers, I can't. Funny.

 

[bartlett7516]

if your stove cant hold the weight of the pipe you need a new stove B.S. I have DuraPlus and it is not that heavy and if you put two of the extended roof brackets on your rafters and decking will be holding up on it! People cook food in stainless with high temps and I never hear of anyone dying from fumes coming off of their pots and pans or the shine from the stainless blinding them??? maybe I am wrong but those flimsy support boxes hold the weight of alot of chimneys with no roof brackets so you should be fine. JMHO again

 

[madison]

If there is only one support/stabilization point (roof top support) for the entire length of chimney, would it not be unstable? ie if you ever needed to disconnect the stove from the class a ? will the stove collar fit directly to class a?

 

[bartlett7516]

There is an adapter that will transition the stove collar to the class A... I believe someone in a previous post mentioned to him the part numbers even idk for sure. The piece that transitions from the ceiling boxes to the single wall will slip into the stove collar as I am looking at mine right now. And for the weight of the pipe and removing the stove is another issue that would have to be addressed but I am sure there is a way of doing it. I dont know what kind of stove he has but there may not be a need to remove the pipe that often? but anything can be done with a little bit of will and I like his idea although it sounds expensive. Be a rebel do it and void the warranty who cares if the pipe defaults youll probably be looking for a new house not new pipe!! my $0.02

 

[Darl Bundren]

Never heard of the weight being an issue, don't know though. Darl, I don't think it needs to be single wall, it can be DVL inside. I just don't see their reasoning that I can't run Class "A" all the way safely.

Yeah, you can use the DVL, but if clearances aren't an issue I wouldn't pony up the extra money for it. I'm not sure why the instruction deal says that you must use connector pipe.

Have you thought about using single wall up to a Class A drop and painting the single wall to make it go with the stainless and room better? I got painted single wall from Woodstock that matches my stove, and to me, it looks nice.

 

[snow4me]

There would be the support that nails to the roof and wraps around the pipe on the outside of the house and under the flashing dealio, forget the name. Then, there would be the wind support above it since it will be sticking past the roof shingles about 5-6 feet. I guess if I ever needed to remove the pipe I would be screwed because I don't have a collapsable section. Worst case, I would just unbolt the legs and remove them and lower the stove out of the way then untwist the pipe. Never said it was the smartest or easiest install, just wanted to know if I would be hurting anything or anybody doing it this way. Thanks for the time guys, I really appreciate it.

Daryl
P.S. hedgefire, I like your no-nonsense attitude. It's refreshing to know there are people out there that will take the time to shed light on something different rather than going along with everyone else to just get it done. I guess I just like to be different. Always been an issue with me.

 

[bartlett7516]

No problem Daryl I like the idea and I know it can be done with out danger. I would rather give you the info you ask for rather than a hundred reasons why you cant or shouldnt. Its your decision what you do. Good Luck