Hey guys! I bought a house recently and there were two wood stoves hooked up to one flue, one in the basement and there other right above it on the main floor. I have removed the stove on the main floor and found that it was connected to the flue at a t inside of the wall. I was hoping to keep the stove in the basement, but I am not sure what to do about the hole in the tee-section. I found a cap at lowes, but it isn't insulated and I am concerned that if I drywall over the hole in my main floor wall it could pose a fire danger. I have included a picture of the Tee-section. The inner hole is 8 inches the outer side is 12. Thank you for giving your time to help me!
Capping off a Flue pipe Tee?
- Thread starter The Fish
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It looks like an Ameri-vent flue.
You are should contact some local hearth stores, if they have been around for a while, I bet they will have a tee cap laying around somewhere.
It would be best to get an Ameri-vent Tee cap, make sure it has a 2" clearance to combustibles and you will be fine. Good luck!
You are should contact some local hearth stores, if they have been around for a while, I bet they will have a tee cap laying around somewhere.
It would be best to get an Ameri-vent Tee cap, make sure it has a 2" clearance to combustibles and you will be fine. Good luck!
sticks
Burning Hunk
Hello
My wood stove and oil boiler were connected to the same flue for 20 years. It worked fine.
The fire code back then was:
As long as the wood stove flue connection was 12" higher than the boiler flue connection it was fine!
Since learned that is not the latest code these days, I capped off the Buderus boiler connection and put in a separate SS pipe for the boiler.
All you need is the right size cap and maybe some furnace cement.
My wood stove and oil boiler were connected to the same flue for 20 years. It worked fine.
The fire code back then was:
As long as the wood stove flue connection was 12" higher than the boiler flue connection it was fine!
Since learned that is not the latest code these days, I capped off the Buderus boiler connection and put in a separate SS pipe for the boiler.
All you need is the right size cap and maybe some furnace cement.
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Putting a single wall tee cap on it and drywalling over it, even with a 2" clearance to combustibles, would still not be correct since the 2" clearance only applies to an insulated section of pipe, not a single wall cap. The only proper way to do it would be to replace the tee with a straight section of the same brand and size Class A pipe in the wall or extending the tee through the wall with a section of Class A and a wall thimble and then cap it off there.
eauzonedan
Member
2nd on the last post.......Dig deep on the details.......... a (DuraVent) tee and cap are not rated for inside use. I believe it's because of the single wall plug construction and joint configuration......... I'd be real careful with using that inside, let alone behind drywall........ I also vote to remove and replace the tee section...... a fire behing a wall would ruin your day.
Dan
Dan
Great suggestions, but the chances of finding this pipe will next to impossible. It will also require major demolition. I was trying to give some practical advice. I guess I should have said, just tear the whole thing out and ugrade it all.
No one is even sure of the brand, or if an insulated Tee cap might be available. It's worth asking around at some hearth stores.
No one is even sure of the brand, or if an insulated Tee cap might be available. It's worth asking around at some hearth stores.
Agree
But, How about if the single wall T cap is used and then a Sheet metal heat shield is nailed over it and then the dry wall?
That may be easier than pulling the wall apart?
The only safe way to fix it is to install the Class A chimney the way it is tested and listed. Anything else may not be safe, wouldn't be to code and if it did cause a fire would give your insurance company a reason not to cover a claim. Just some things to consider. If you had a chimney fire, HT pipe is listed to be safe at 2100 degrees for 10 minutes at a 2" clearance to combustables. A single wall cap, however, is not, even with an extra piece of sheet metal that would just conduct heat through it if it's up against a combustable surface. There should be a brand name and numbers on a section of the pipe so you can find out what it is. It looks like you have enough room to take out the tee and replace it with a section of pipe without teasring the wall apart.
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